An Overland Trip to California. 367

AN OVERLAND TRIP TO CALIFORNIA IN THE YEAR 1860.

By Ellery Bicknell Crane

Ladies and Gentlemen:

            You no doubt are all familiar with the history of California, and know that territory was once in the possession of Mexico, and that through the fortunes and misfortunes of war the United States became the possessor in February, 1848, of this land of then untold and undeveloped wealth.

            While the American colonies were struggling for their, independence in 1776, some of the Fathers of St. Francis established a Catholic mission, called Mission Dolores. It was the first white settlement at San Francisco. These Franciscan Fathers established other missions along the Pacific coast south of San Francisco, and during the fifty years they, with the consent of the native Indians, enjoyed a free run of the Pacific slopes, accumulated a vast amount of wealth, estimated at many millions of dollars, including horses, sheep, cattle, hogs, coin and bullion. At the downfall of the Spanish rule in Mexico, these missions began to decline, and at last were abandoned by the priests, and the property was confiscated in the year 1845.

            The excellent climate, fertile soil, and glitter of its gold and silver soon attracted the attention of adventurers in various parts of the country, and people began to find their way into this El Dorado.

            Commodore Jones of the United States Navy, in October, 1842, believing that hostilities were in progress between Mexico and his home government, sailed into the harbor of Monterey, captured the fort, hoisted the stars and stripes, and declared California a territory of the United States.

            Commodore Jones was nearly four years ahead of time. Undoubtedly his wish was father of his thought. He found the next day that war did not exist between the two countries, hauled down the flag, and apologized to the Mexi-

368 Proceedings.

can authorities for his conduct. Here was one instance where the United States flag was hauled down after having been hoisted over conquered territory, but it was where the declaration of possession was too hastily made. On July 7, 1846, possession was again taken in behalf of the United States, this time by Commodore Sloat, and in less than two years from this date reports of the finding of gold there caused a vast number of fortune-seekers to immigrate to that country. Some went by vessel around Cape Horn, others by way of the Isthmus of Panama (the Nicaragua route being perhaps the chief one). A considerable number, however, found their way across the country, traveling with private teams. The year 1849 is memorable in the history of California as the advent of the mining population.

            In 1850 the population of the state was 92,600. In 1860, the year your speaker visited the state, it was 380,000; the increase has been at the rate of 200,000 to 300,000 every ten years.

            It is a common saying that the old '49-er is invariably poor. A very small per cent, of those who went expecting to become rich, lived to enjoy that result of their labors.

            Having decided on our journey, we shall proceed to prepare for the start. Lightness and durability must ever be in mind while selecting the outfit. Every pound in weight saved is of the greatest importance. With no repair shops at convenient intervals along the route, strength of materials in the construction of the outfit is also a prominent factor to be considered. A well-made, strongly-ironed, one-horse wagon is purchased, the reach lengthened to appropriately carry a body of about twelve feet in length. This body is carefully put together, made as nearly water tight as it conveniently can be, so that if occasion requires, it may be used as a boat. The sides of the body are about one foot in depth, and supplied with tool-boxes on either side about midway from each end ; also another box inside and across the front end, the cover seeing as a seat for

An Overland Trip to California. 369

the driver when no better one is provided. To the sides (and overarching the body) a set of wooden bows is attached, over which is drawn a canvas cover to furnish protection from the hot sun and the rain. With a brake of sufficient strength to hold the hind wheels from turning and a pole with fixtures for attaching four horses, we have our wagon in readiness. Three or four sets of shoes for each horse must be stored in the tool-boxes, with hammer, nails, and the proper tools for shaping their hoofs; a few pairs of bits and extra straps to provide for breakage of harness ; a coil of 25 or 30 feet of 5/8 rope with 1 8-inch iron pin attached, for each horse; a few draft-chains, and an extra king-bolt or two, will give a fair equipment for that portion of our outfit.

            As food for our animals can be obtained along the route for the first few hundred miles, it is not necessary to load the wagons with flour, cornmeal and oats until about to take final leave of the settlements. We, however, provide three dozen two-bushel bags and a half dozen twelve-quart tin pails for use when needed. For a trunk we use a two-bushel bag, and place in it as little wearing apparel as our judgment will suggest for the journey.

            With a supply of common remedies to be used in case of sickness of man or beast, we are perhaps ready to make the start. As a body-guard the writer had one rifle, a double-barreled shotgun, a Colt's revolver, with a generous supply of powder and lead, also a sheath-knife.

            You may be interested to know what our menu was on this journey: bread, bacon, beans, molasses and coffee. Bread was baked in a baking-kettle covered with hot coals and ashes, baking-powder being used in place of yeast. Fat from fried bacon was a substitute for butter ; molasses served for both sugar and milk in our coffee. The beans were stewed in a tin pail hung over the fire. By the killing of wild game we occasionally had fresh meat, regaling

370 Proceedings.

ourselves a few times on steaks from the buffalo, antelope and the grizzly bear.

            There are more or less dangers, trials and incidents attending such a trip : dangers from sickness of man or beast caused from poisonous food and drink found by the wayside.

            One of our party, careful for fear he should receive harm from drinking impure water, carried a little black pepper, and sprinkled that in before drinking water taken from the roadside. Although he lived to complete the trip, he died within a few years; whether from the effects of the pepper or water I never knew. Dangers from Indian depredations, and from stampeding of horses. The latter are perhaps as much to be dreaded as either of the other causes cited. To see your horses galloping out of your sight in the direction of home, the run only to end when the animal's strength has become exhausted, is not a scene pleasant to contemplate.

            Some of the trials to contend with are petty jealousies and quarrels; men get tired, and rough, out-of-door life tends to lower the standard of citizenship. I knew a man who, after the passage of a few hot words over the bringing of a basin of water in which to wash his hands, drew his knife and killed his assailant on the spot. This man was courtmarshaled and drummed out of camp, left to seek other company or starve.

            Our first stampede occurred while camped a few miles west of Omaha. We were educating our horses to the picket rope. Each horse was fastened by a twenty-five foot rope, one end about his neck, the other end attached to an iron pin driven in the ground. As our animals were of a very lively disposition, it was amusing to see them go through their various evolutions, running from one side to the other as far as the rope would allow, sometimes coming to a short stop, landing on their heads, at others getting wound up with the rope about their legs, requiring some one to release them. After a few days' watching to

An Overland Trip to California. 371

help them out of their difficulties, they learned the ropes and kept out of trouble.

            It was in the edge of evening when our attention was called to an unusual activity among the horses, and before we could quiet them ten out of the thirteen succeeded in drawing the iron pins and starting for Omaha at the top of their speed. We had the consolation that it was not many miles to the bank of the Missouri river, and that would probably prove a serious barrier to further progress homeward: The writer was not long in mounting one of the remaining horses, and started in pursuit of the runaways. On through Omaha (then a place of but a few thousand inhabitants) the horses were traced, and down to the river-bank, where they turned to the right down the stream. It. was getting dark; and the, footprints in the sand could no longer be seen, but pursuit was continued and after riding a few miles further came to a thicket of willows. The frequent neighing of the horse under saddle (his mate being among the runaways) was at last answered, and forcing a passage into the thicket, found two of our animals completely wound up among the willows by the long ropes they had been dragging throughout their mad run. A free use of the knife soon liberated them. Darkness preventing further search at this time, I again mounted my horse, and with a runaway on each side; started for the return to camp. Finding one animal did not care to be led, I applied in gentle form a willow switch. At the very first stroke, I found, myself dragged from my horse, and going through the brush at a rapid rate, wound up in the coil of rope I had put on my saddle. The thick willows, however, prevented the horse from dragging the saddle and rider a great distance. When the halt was made, found some severe bruises, and; as a consequence was quite lame for two or three weeks.

            After mending the broken girth to the saddle, to show my friendly feeling for the headstrong animal, placed: the

372 Proceedings.

saddle on her back, and reached camp little before midnight. Early the following morning the search was continued, with the result that the other eight animals were found about seven miles further down the river than the patch of willows visited the night before.

            Our journey of something more than 2,000 miles in length carries us across (as the map shows to-day) seven states : Wisconsin, Iowa, Nebraska, Wyoming, Utah, Nevada and California. In 1860 it was three states and three territories, Nebraska, Utah and Nevada being then territories. We cross the Mississippi river by ferry at Dubuque and the Missouri river at Omaha. The pictures given to illustrate this journey were not taken at the time it was made. The Kodak was not in common use then. They have been selected, however, to properly represent the general scenery of that region of country.

            It is impossible to express in words the beauty and grandeur of the scenery to be found in that western country. It must be seen to be fully appreciated. Through Wisconsin and Iowa the gently-rolling surface, dotted here and there with groves of timber, fertile prairies and clear, running streams, give sufficient variety of landscape to interest the traveler. As you traverse the western portion of Iowa and draw near the Missouri river, you find more of prairie and less of timber. After leaving the Missouri river, proceeding up the Platte river, you soon lose sight of trees altogether. The trail we are to follow extends along the bottom lands, bordering this river about 500 miles. To the north and the south as far as the eye can reach are seen gracefully rolling grassy hills where roam the buffalo, antelope, elk and the coyote. Here also may be found the sage-hen, jack-rabbit and prairie-dog. The latter have their villages, living in their underground houses in company with snakes, owls, etc.

            This Platte river valley was at some early period covered with water, forming a very wide stream or great lake.

An Overland Trip to California. 373

The water-line was easily traced along the hills on either side as we made our way westward. Sage-brush and grease-wood are about the only shrubs to be seen for hundreds of miles. The stalk of the former in looks resembles the grape-vine. It seldom grows more than five feet in length, usually in clusters, forming a tangled mass upon the ground, and standing up not more than four feet high, size of the stalk not more than two inches in diameter. The grease-wood grows more slender and straight, reaching two to five feet in height. You will therefore understand that fuel was extremely scarce. After reaching the Black Hills, fuel is more plenty, although very little timber came within our view before reaching the Sierra Nevada mountains.

            The 5th day of June we took leave of Omaha, and in the afternoon experienced the severest storm it has been the writer's fortune to witness. One wagon was capsized by the wind while traveling in front of us, and when hailstones the size of marbles and even up to hens' eggs came, our horses wheeled from the road and ran with the storm across the smooth prairie at a rapid rate. Coming to a ravine we were able to quiet them, and by holding our blankets over them they stood quietly while we were drenched in the rain that came like a cloud-burst over us. Not until evening did our fifteen men with their five wagons and thirty-seven horses come together again, so widely were they scattered by the storm. On account of wet clothing the writer burrowed for the night in a hay-loft. Four days later we reached Loop Fork, a tributary of the Platte, which we crossed by a ferry. Here we found a village of the Pawnee Indians. They being anxious to sell their wares, our cook, Mr. Frost, on being told they asked two bits for a pair of moccasins, went rummaging in the tool-box for bridle bits with which to purchase a pair, not knowing that their two bits meant two shillings, a joke he remembered for some time after we let him try to make the purchase.

374 Proceedings.

            On coming to Wood river the recent rains had so filled the river-banks we found the bridges carried away; compelling us to ferry over our supplies in one of our wagon-bodies, a long rope being attached to each end of the body, and by that means drawing it back and forth across the stream. Saturday, the 16^th of June, we arrived at the fording place on the Platte river opposite Fort Kearney. As many of our party had ordered their mail directed to that post office, there was a strong desire to visit the place; but the spring freshet was on, and the government stage had not been able to cross for a week. We thought of our friends at home, and felt sure we should find some word from them could we reach the post office. Charles Garrett and the writer volunteered to make the attempt. Saddling two of the tallest horses, we mounted them, and after crossing ten channels, the most of them deep enough to cause our horses to swim, we arrived at the fort, found a generous supply of mail-matter, which we carried back over the ford to the eager ones waiting 10 hear from home.

            The following day about noon we espied a small herd of buffalo. Three of the fleetest horses in the party were saddled, and Godfrey, Hart and the writer gave chase. For some reason Godfrey did not follow up when the buffalo began to run, which they proceeded to do as soon as they saw us. Mr. Hart, being on a horse trained for running, soon overhauled the bison he singled out, and poured a broadside from his revolver into the animal, which he carried off seemingly unhurt. Mr. Hart reloaded his revolver and continued the chase.

            The third party, with rifle in hand, ran his horse up to a fine specimen, and, finding a deep slough obstructing his passage, dismounted and tried to get a shot, but the frightened horse demanded so much attention that the buffalo was out of range before the horse could be quieted. Again the rider mounted his horse and followed the herd for several miles into the hills. But the great, clumsy-gaited

An Overland Trip to California. 375

buffalo in the long run can outdistance the horse. It is only on a quick dash that the horse is able to cope with them for speed. After we had enjoyed our run, and given our game a little lively exercise, returning to the road, came upon friend Hart at a little stream bathing the neck of his horse. "I have accidentally shot this horse," he said as the writer rode up. A careful examination disclosed only a flesh wound across the top of the neck, and with the solemn promise that neither of us should refer to it until further developments, we made our way back to the train, which we overtook about sundown.  During the early part of the chase the writer's hat disappeared, and the blazing sun made severe work with the upper portion of his face, causing no little discomfort for many days.

            Thursday, June 21, in the forenoon we espied objects approaching from the west. They proved to be about 400 Sioux Indian braves, all mounted on fleet ponies, and decked in their war-paint and feathers. We breathed more freely when we learned they were not after our fifteen scalps, but were on their way to punish the Pawnees for raids that tribe had been making on their horses and cattle. We kept on our way while they passed us, with all the pomp and stateliness of a regiment of United States Regulars. In their dress they were not confined to regulation uniforms. They wore nearly every style conceivable. Especially prominent were samples of uniforms once worn by our United States soldiers of almost every rank.

            About sunset we met the rear guard of this army, composed of the squaws, the elderly and youngest of the party. Some of them were fine specimens of the Indian type. An elderly woman attracted attention on account of the elaborate dress she wore, made of buckskin tanned white, and beautifully embroidered with various colored beads. She was wife of a chief. Whether the presence of Indians in the vicinity had anything to do with the circumstance or

376 Proceedings.

not I cannot say, but a short time before meeting this war party we were startled from our slumbers about midnight by the unwelcome sound of our horses rushing by our wagons in a mad stampede. Thirty out of the thirty-seven horses attempted to show us their heels. All hands were out in a moment ; three of the remaining horses were saddled, and Danforth, King and the writer followed in pursuit.

            The rain was falling in torrents. The only light by which we could follow the trail was from the flash of lightning that came at intervals. Many times we were obliged to dismount and feel with our hands to find the track our wheels passed over the day before. After a ride of twenty-five miles we overtook the runaways at daylight and returned to camp with them.

            Two weeks later, just at evening, seven of our lively horses tried the same feat and accomplished more than they set out for. Six only were recovered ; one, a fine animal, ran into the Platte river and was drowned. That experience seemed to have its effect on the animals, for we had no more stampedes of any significance during the remainder of the journey.

            Castle Rocks, a curiosity well worth a passing glance, stood at the right of the road on the north side of the Platte. June 27th we came in sight of Chimney Rock, a great natural curiosity. Carved from solid rock by action of the elements, it stood there about 50 feet square at the base, 30 feet square at the top and 275 feet high (50 feet higher than Bunker Hill Monument). It was composed of sandstone and stood on the south side of the Platte about three-fourths of a mile back from the river bank. The writer visited it in company with Mr. Frost, and our names were carved at the base of the shaft by the side of hundreds of other names.

            On reaching Fort Laramie, we crossed to the south side of the Platte on the ferry. One of our party, who had seen service as cavalryman in the Crimean War, asked the privi-

An Overland Trip to California. 377

lege of swimming one of the horses across, suggesting that the other horses could be driven in behind him and they would follow across, thus saving several dollars of toll money. The stream at this point was very deep and the current swift. The loose horses were driven up to the landing ready for the start, and our plucky Englishman mounted a horse and started in. When a few rods from shore, from holding too tight a rein, the horse careened over backward, causing the Englishman to slide off; and losing his hold on the animal, and not being able to swim, was left in a most precarious condition, and soon called loudly for help. One of the Indians, watching the performance, ran to the bank and threw out the end of his lariat, but it was not long enough to reach the drowning man. There was a sharp turn in the current just below the ferry, and to that point we rushed, and there he was rescued, not, however, until he had given himself up for lost.

            Our course was now through the Black Hills, in the direction of South Pass. Devil's Gate is a fine natural curiosity, standing at the north of the road about five miles distant. On examining Independence Rock, we found among the names cut in the rock that of John C. Fremont, dated 1842, and again in 1845. Sighting some mountain sheep, the writer took down his rifle, and began to climb for them. After plodding for an hour, found that they were watching closely and moving off, keeping the distance good between us. Not being able to bring them within range, returned to the wagons, believing mountain sheep are very cunning and not easily captured.

            For nearly five hundred miles from Fort Laramie to Salt Lake City, we were shut in by mountains, and surrounded by barren rocks and alkali beds, many places showing signs of, at some time, great volcanic action. Here and there were verdant spots to refresh the jaded traveler and his still more tired and jaded horses.

378 Proceedings.

            The grand canyons through which we found our way, cut through lofty ledges of solid rock by action of mighty waters or volcanic upheavals, commanded our wonder and  admiration, while the grandeur and stateliness of the mighty peaks towering amid the clouds above our heads filled us with bewilderment as we gazed at the marvelous wonders of creation.

            Many if not all of you have, at some time, witnessed what would be termed severe, and perhaps terrific thunderstorms ; but to get the best effect of such a storm, you need to be engulfed in the cloud itself. At a height of over 7,700 feet above the sea, while traveling in the midst of the clouds, shut in on either side with high mountains, we witnessed one of those grand displays. To be sure, the roar of the peals of thunder was almost deafening, but to see the electricity all about you, darting over the ground like so many huge snakes, was indeed an, interesting sight. All felt more at ease after the excitement was over.

            After going through South Pass, we came to Simpson's Hollow, where we found cinders and old irons, all that was left of the seventy government wagons captured and burned by the Mormons two years before.

            For a number of years prior to 1858, the Mormons in Utah had come to believe they were the supreme authority there, and almost openly defied the government authorities. That terrible slaughter known as the Mountain Meadow Massacre, 1857, caused drastic measures to be introduced by the United States government to remind the Mormon leaders of their allegiance to the territorial laws. Government troops were sent out to enforce these laws, and the Mormons organized their army to oppose them. The capture and burning of this train of seventy wagons were one result of the severe tension of the time.

            The Mormons fortified Echo canyon, where they expected to meet and annihilate the United States troops before they should reach Salt Lake City.

An Overland Trip to California. 379

            This canyon is one of the finest natural curiosities to be seen on the journey. It is twenty-two miles long, with Echo creek running through its entire length. Perpendicular rocks line both sides nearly all the distance, and in places extending hundreds of feet in height. The road down through the canyon runs most of the way in the bed of the creek, crossing it seventeen times in going the twenty-two miles.

            The strata of these .perpendicular rocks lining the sides are composed of various colored sandstone, in which the action of frost and rain has carved out beautiful specimens of pinnacles, domes, and turrets. With the sunlight streaming upon them, they at times present a sight of rare beauty.

            As we descended the mountain leading to the eastern entrance to the canyon, a short distance from the trail at the right we found a cache, a room ten or twelve feet in diameter, cut out of the rock by Indians, in which to store their supplies.

            Passing on through the canyon, we came to the ovens used by the Mormons in baking bread for their army while the place was fortified by them. At one side of this narrow passageway they threw up a high embankment of earth and rock to check the progress of the United States army in that narrow defile, and at the proper signal the Mormons had arranged to roll down vast quantities of rocks collected on the summit of the overhanging ledges, and thus crush out the life of our government soldiers. Many cords of those rocks were to be seen piled up ready for use.

            After fording Green river, we turned through Parley's Park, and on over the summit that separated us from the valley of the Great Salt Lake.

            On reaching the westerly side of this park, finding excellent feed for our horses, we remained in camp three days, improving the time by calling on William Kimball, son of a prominent Mormon of that name, who owned a large ranch here.

380 Proceedings.

            Never can I forget the thrill of delight that came over me as we stood upon the last summit that separated us from the valley of the Great Salt Lake. For weeks we had been traveling through deep valleys and canyons, with high peaks all about us, our vision comparatively shut in, except skyward, when early one morning we began to climb this mountain-ridge that stood across our pathway to the great Mormon city. All day we plodded on, walking by our wagons to relieve the tired animals as they labored under their heavy loads. On and up we went, only stopping for a brief rest at the noon hour, then pushing forward, thinking as we passed over each rise that there could be but one more to climb ; but one and another came looming up before us, when at last, about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, we reached the summit. For a moment all in the party were speechless at the enchanting scene presented to their view. The next moment hats went whirling in the air ; their voices rang with joy as they locked out upon the beautiful panorama at their feet. Across the valley twenty miles away stood the range of mountains that formed the barrier on the west. To the south, as far as the eye could reach, were the placid waters of Utah lake, with its surface glistening in the sunlight ; away to the north could be seen the Great Salt Lake, and winding down through the valley below like a huge serpent, and connecting these two bodies of water, was the river Jordan, along whose banks could be seen numerous herds of cattle and horses feeding upon the rich carpet of green that was spread out before us. In the right-hand corner of the picture, resting between the waters of Salt Lake and the foot of the snow-capped mountain, stood the city of the Latter-Day Saints, the long-looked-for resting-place for weary men and jaded horses.

            Thus far so little trouble from outside influences had come to our notice that we began to believe that our company of fifteen men could face almost any like undertaking. But the reports that came from officers of the United States

An Overland Trip to California. 381

army, then conducting a sharp campaign against the warlike Indians west of Salt Lake, led us to remain here about three weeks, for the purpose of recruiting our horses and accumulating the proper number of men for self-protection through the Indian country we must pass.

            At last we decided to go by Simpson's cut-off, a route then recently explored by Lieut. James H. Simpson, U.S.A., and traveled by the Pony Express, and our original company of fifteen again took up the march, and after traveling four days, halted for the others to come up and complete the contemplated organization.

            One evening, while camped at the foot of a mountain, the horses were given their liberty to grope about for feed, and being stationed some little distance from the wagons, the writer was left to watch them while the rest of the men went down to the wagons for supper. Darkness was slowly creeping over the sides of the mountain, yet it was light enough to faintly distinguish several horses moving off in a direction that convinced the writer that they were not feeding, and on investigation found three Indians making off with four horses. Two well-directed shots from a Colt's revolver saved three of the horses, the Indians leaving them, and pushing on up the mountain with the other one, exchanging shots as they went. The firing had signaled the men at the camp, who quickly came to render their services. But it being too dark to follow the trail of the stolen horse, we concluded to wait until morning, when we would pursue the robbers. Several times during the night, by the light of the moon, Indians were seen skulking about the camp, but at a safe distance away. At early morning light, we found the tracks of our missing horse, and followed over the mountain, down the other side through the bed of a small stream, and on several miles. Coming to an Indian camp we reconnoitred and estimated 75 to 100 Indians there. Believing discretion the better part of valor, the four pursuers returned to their camp for recruits, intending

382 Proceedings.

to return and storm the Indian camp unless our stolen horse was given up. About the middle of the afternoon, greatly to our astonishment, an Indian came riding into our camp leading the stolen horse, which he, the chief, came to return. We rewarded him for his kindness, as we were glad to end the matter so easily.

            Our company soon assembled, giving us thirty-eight men, fourteen wagons and about sixty horses. We elected Mr. Woodside captain. He was a delegate from Oregon to the National Convention that nominated Abraham Lincoln for the Presidency that year, and on his way home. He was an experienced frontiers-man, and we were glad to secure his services. We were also joined here by "Billy" Rogers, United States Indian agent for the Shawshonee tribe, who had been escorted through the hostile Indian country on his way to Salt Lake by United States soldiers, and was now returning to his tribe in Ruby valley and wished to travel with us.

            Six days out from Salt Lake City, during our noon hour in Tooele valley, three armed men came riding through our drove of horses and mules as they were feeding. Coming up to the wagons the spokesman of the party claimed a certain pair of mules, to which he pointed. The owner stepped forward to learn from the visitor, who stated he was a sheriff, and there to take possession of those mules ; that they had been stolen from one of the three visitors. The mules were examined, and sure enough the private mark he described was on them. The man, who had just joined our company, said he purchased those mules at Omaha of a man claiming to be a nephew of Brigham Young, and had traveled thus far from the Missouri river with them, and felt that he was the rightful owner. The sheriff replied he would have to take possession of the mules, and our friend could go before the court and let that tribunal decide the case. Our men held consultation, and concluded if we resisted the sheriff some

An Overland Trip to California. 383

one of the party would be likely to get severely hurt, perhaps killed. As the traveler was a stranger to us, it would be best for him to go to the courts with his case, although many of us were convinced in our own minds that the unfortunate man would never have possession of his mules again, and our heartfelt sympathy followed him as he passed out of our sight on his way to Tooele (the county seat) in company with the sheriff and his deputies. We never heard from our friend afterward, although we were told that such cases came up quite often; that horses, mules and cattle were taken down to the Missouri river, sold to or exchanged with people going to California, and when arriving at Salt Lake the animals were claimed as stolen property. Of course the courts must hold the property on the evidence.

            Sept. 4 we came to the Great American Desert, forty-five miles without feed or water. Started to cross it at six o'clock in the afternoon, carrying what water and fresh grass we could for the horses ; when half way over gave each animal his allowance of water, with a pint of flour stirred into it, accompanying it with a few mouthfuls of grass. The stop was very short indeed. Pushing on, reached the opposite side about four o'clock the following afternoon.

            We now found ourselves in the centre of Indian hostilities. Obliged to travel through the daytime with a guard posted each side of our train ready for an attack any moment. United States soldiers were patrolling the country, driving the Indians back from the track of the Pony Express. Collisions with them were frequent. Indian signal-fires could be seen every night, and as at that time a double guard was required, each man in the company was obliged to serve every other night, and remember well what a difficult task at times it was to keep awake.

            Antelope and Egan canyons were given us as extremely dangerous places to pass through ; but the United States soldiers kept the Indians so thoroughly occupied that we

384 Proceedings.

escaped unmolested, reaching William Rogers' ranch in Ruby valley September 14^th, and out of the way of the hostiles.

            Mr. Rogers was in charge of a large tribe known as Shawshonee Indians, with headquarters in this valley. He gave us an exhibition of Indians shooting and capturing wild steers, giving the whole Indian camp a treat to an extra ration of fresh beef in honor of our visit. From here we pushed on, coming to another desert, about thirty-five miles in width. This we crossed during the night of Sept. 29^th. Reaching the Carson river, we followed that some distance, when we came to Fort Churchill, a new outpost in Nevada, then being erected for protection of the mining settlements that were then fast developing. Virginia City at this time was only a cluster of cloth tents. Carson City could boast of several wooden structures one story in height. We went sight-seeing one evening in Carson City. Passing along the street, hearing strains of music, we went into a large room. At one side of the entrance was a well-stocked bar; across the rear end of the room was a platform on which the musicians were stationed; the remaining portion of the room was taken up with small tables, at which gamblers were seated trying their luck at cards. Knives and pistols were in evidence everywhere. While we were enjoying the music, some gambler drew his weapon to settle a dispute, when the order was instantly given : "All lights out ; every one remain still ; and don't shoot !" The proprietor soon quieted the parties, and lights were turned on. Thinking our services were not needed there any longer, we withdrew, that the gamblers might have the room to themselves. There was a dead man lying in front of that place in the morning.

            Five days' travel from Carson City carried us over the Sierra Nevada mountains to Placerville, or Hangtown as it was sometimes called.

            After toiling over a very dusty road two more days, we

An Overland Trip to California. 385

came in sight of the city of Sacramento, the end of our carriage drive of the year 1860.

            If you will bear with me a little longer, will close the entertainment by relating my experience in quicksand.

            In November, 1861, California suffered severely from disastrous floods. There had been a heavy fall of snow in the mountains; in places it reached nearly as high as the top of the telegraph poles, and when the rainy season began floods of water went sweeping over the lowlands. The north fork of the American river rose fifty-five feet.

            The city of Sacramento stands at the junction of the American and Sacramento rivers. Both these streams overflowed their banks. The country for miles around was covered like a great lake. The up-river steamboats made trips across the country, rescuing people from their houses, carrying them to high land for safety. One of these steamboats was caught when the water suddenly subsided, in a garden on the easterly side of Sacramento, and remained there for more than two-months. In portions of the city houses were lifted from their foundations, and some of the smaller ones capsized by the weight of their chimneys. Had this flood reached Sacramento in the night-time, there would have been great loss of life, but it appeared about seven o'clock in the morning, and warning was given as the water came rolling over the country, carrying fences and small outbuildings in its folds as it crept along. The writer was boarding at a hotel on K street, rooming on the first floor. The warning soon came to move up onto the second floor. Hastily hanging my traveling bag with its contents on a big nail driven in the wall near the ceiling, I made my way up stairs, and taking a seat at the window watched the mad rushing waters as they swept down the street, carrying wagons, carts, henhouses, and almost every conceivable thing that would float. Small boats were at a premium.

            At first all attention was given to saving men, women and children ; then the cattle and horses were looked after.

386 Proceedings.

            Having two horses in a stable near the hotel, I finally succeeded in hiring a boat to go to their rescue. Found them three feet deep in water. With a man to row, I, from the stern of the boat, led them out one at a time, swimming them around three blocks onto I street, where they could stand out of water. There I took care of them several days and nights, when they were removed out of the city and given better accommodations. It was not possible to go outside the house without a boat, so sent to San Francisco by steamer for lumber to make one twenty feet long, with three sets of row-locks, and soon had it ready for use, doing a vast amount of work with it transporting passengers and freight. The railroad trains could not come within two and a half or three miles of the city, and we occasionally ran our boat out to bring in passengers. On one of these trips we attempted to get further up the channel and save a portion of the walk for the passengers. The water was disappearing, three months having passed since the flood came, bringing with it the wash of innumerable mining camps, leaving the water thick with a sediment that appeared as a quicksand after the water had drained off. In the submerged houses this sediment left a deposit from one to five feet in depth on the first floors, and out in the open fields it filled up all the low spots, leaving to appearance a level or even surface.

            The writer, in attempting to cross one of these level fields to reach the train of cars, chanced to pass over a low spot that had been filled with this quicksand. It was a perfect trap, for its surface looked dry and hard. Being supplied with long rubber boots, I tripped along, hurrying over a few soft places, thinking soon it would come harder, or I should reach solid ground. Finally exhausted in the struggle to extricate my feet from the mud, I stopped to rest, while the downward motion continued more rapidly after breaking through the crust. Finding, after going down two feet, that I was still settling, I began to struggle to lift

An Overland Trip to California. 387

myself out, but the more I tried that, the faster I went down. At a house near by a woman appeared at the window. Seeing me, she spoke to her husband, who came to the door and asked how I came there. I told him, and asked how deep it was. He said nine feet ; I suggested that he pull off boards from a fence near by and lay them out to me, that I might place my hand on them and lift myself out. After a feeble attempt, as the boards sank in with him, he abandoned the job, and went back into the house. By this time I was down to my waist, with the foundations still settling. My presence at the train had been missed, and my friend, who came in the boat with me, began to look for me, and came around the corner of this house just at the desirable moment. I at once called his attention to those boards on the fence, and in less time than it takes to tell it, he laid them out on the quicksand to me, and with one on each side to lift upon, I pulled myself out, not, however, without severe effort, from which strain it took many weeks to recover. In this experience I learned a lesson. Whenever you get into deep quicksand, straighten out upon your back and roll off. You may soil your clothes, but save your life.

 

* * * * *

[From http://genealogytrails.com/mass/biohistoryofmass1.html ]

 

            ELLERY BICKNELL CRANE was born at Colebrook, New Hampshire, November 12, 1836. He was the son of Robert Prudden Crane, born at Colebrook, April 7, 1807, died in Micanopy, Florida, November 3, 1882. His mother was Almira Paine Bicknell. His grandfathers were Eleaser Crane, born December 28, 1773, died June 14, 1839, and John Wilson Bicknell, born April 10, 1780, died March 2, 1857. His grandmothers were Anna Prudden and Keziah Paine.

            His father was a farmer, teacher, carpenter and builder; a man of sturdy character, strong in integrity.

            His ancestor, Henry Crane, came from England with his parents to Rozbury, Massachusetts, in 1636, removing to Wethersfield, Connecticut, in 1655 and to Guilford in 1660. Rev. Peter Prudden, born in England in 1600, came to Milford, Connecticut, in 1638. Zachaiy Bicknell came from England to Weymouth, Massachusetts, in 1635. Stephen Paine came from England to Hingham, Massachusetts, in 1638. They were men of industry and efficiency.

            Ellery Crane was interested in his youth in history, and this interest has been maintained during his life. For fiction he has never cared. In his boyhood he was kept busy in various services about the house, and his employment was first work and after that play. His father was joined by his wife and their only child in what is now Beloit, Wisconsin, in the summer of 1837. Here the son grew to manhood. He studied in the public and private schools and in Beloit Academy and the preparatory department of Beloit College. He did not enter the college, but this connection with it was of advantage, for he was brought under the influence of those who founded and sustained a college which has an excellent history and large promise for the future.

            It was good training which the youth received. He studied bookfully, and was employed as an accountant and bookkeeper in the office of a lumber and grain merchant in Beloit. After a time his employer found it necessary to change his method of business and conduct it on a cash basis. In 1860 young Crane joined a party of gentlemen who went to California via the overland route. This exposed them to conflicts with the Indians, in which the young man took his part.

            He remained in California and Oregon for about two years and then came back to the East by the way of the Isthmus of Panama and was employed as bookkeeper and salesman for a lumber merchant in Boston. When the business was sold in 1867, he established himself in Worcester as a lumber merchant, where he has remained, having a steady success in his business. His partner at the beginning was Jonathan C. French, whose interest Mr. Crane soon purchased and he then assumed the sole charge. In 1900 his buildings and stock were destroyed by fire and Mr. Crane retired from business, as the building laws prohibited the erection of wooden buildings on the ground which he had occupied.

            Since his retirement he has devoted himself largely to genealogical and historical work. For thirty-five years he has been a member of the Worcester Society of Antiquity, and for many years its president. For ten years or more he served as Librarian, and the Library has been rearranged under his direction. He has published various papers in the records of the society. He has compiled the "Rawson Family Memorial," containing the records of the descendants of Edward Rawson, Secretary of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, and also the "Crane Family Genealogy" in two volumes. He has also published exhaustive family records in the Genealogical and Personal Memoirs of Worcester County. This work has gained the commendation of those who have made use of his labors, which have been performed with accuracy and thoroughness. He was for two years a member of the Worcester Common Council and for two years was on the Board of Aldermen. He was an active member and did good work on important committees.

            Mr. Crane is a prominent member of the Worcester County Mechanics Association. He has served as one of its directors and was vice-president 1887-89 and president 1890 to 1892. In 1892 he delivered the historical address at the fiftieth anniversary of the Association. For three years he was president of the Worcester Builders' Exchange and for three years was president of the Sons and Daughters of New Hampshire.

            In politics Mr. Crane is a Republican, though not an extreme partisan. He has represented his city in the State Legislature as a Representative and Senator. In the House he served on the Committees on Constitutional Amendments, Election Laws, and in the Senate the Committees on Election Laws, Roads and Bridges, Street Railways and Taxation, being chairman of that Committee and also chairman of the Committee on Parish and Religious Societies. For several years he was one of the Directors of the Worcester Board of Trade. He has for many years been one of the Trustees of the Worcester County Institution of Savings and has been Vice-President of the Home Cooperative Bank. In his religious connections Mr. Crane is a Unitarian.

            It is plain from the many important offices which he has filled that Mr. Crane has been a man of energy and public spirit and of a character which wins confidence. He has made himself necessary and his fellow citizens have recognized his worth. His counsel to young men is "to be gentlemen, to improve the present opportunities with punctuality, honesty, courtesy and frugality."

            Mr. Crane married, May 13, 1859, Salona A. Rawson, daughter of George and Lots Aldrich Rawson, granddaughter of Simon and Abigail Wood Rawson, and Edward and Sarah Sadler Rawson and a descendant from Edward Rawson, for thirty-six years Secretary of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, who came from England to Newbury, Massachusetts, in 1637. They had one child, Morton Rawson Crane.