[From Report of explorations across the great basin of the territory of Utah for a direct wagon-route from Camp Floyd to Genoa, in Carson Valley (1876)]

 

APPENDIX Q.

__________

JOURNAL OF MR. EDWARD M. KERN OF AN EXPLORATION OF THE MARY'S OR HUMBOLDT RIVER, CARSON LAKE, AND OWENS RIVER AND LAKE, IN 1845.

WASHINGTON, September 10, 1860.

            SIR : In compliance with your request for information regarding a portion of the route pursued by the expedition to the Rocky Mountains and California under command of Capt. J. C. Fremont, in the year 1845, I inclose you a copy of my journal, which you are at liberty, if it will be in any way serviceable to you, to make such use of as you may think fit.

            Truly, your obedient servant,

EDW. M. KERN.

Capt. J. F. H. SIMPSON,

            U. S. Corps Topographical Engineers.

__________

            November 5, 1845.—Whitten's Spring. To-day we parted company, the captain passing to the southward with a small party, to examine that portion of the Great Basin supposed to be a desert, lying between the Sierra Nevada and the Rocky Mountains. The main body of the camp, under the guidance of Mr. Joseph Walker, are to move toward the head of Mary's or Ogden's River, and down that stream to its sink or lake. From thence to Walker's Lake, where we are again to meet. I am to accompany the latter party in charge of the topography, &c. Crossing the mountains near our camp, we arrived about 1 o'clock p. m. at several springs of excellent water. These springs spread into a large marsh, furnishing an abundant supply of good grass for the animals. On the 6th, owing to a severe snow-storm, we were obliged to remain in camp. Having no timber but a few green cedars, fires were not very abundant.

            On the 7th we commenced our ascent by a steep and rocky road. The snow was falling lightly when we started, but before we reached the summit, we were nearly blinded by the storm. A short descent brought us into a pleasant valley, well watered by several small streams, and timbered with aspen and cottonwood. This is, really, a beautiful spot, surrounded by high mountains, those on the west covered with snow. Crossing a low range of hills, we entered another valley, that takes its waters from the snowy mountains on either side. The stream, after winding among the grass-covered hills, emerges into a plain, through which we could see Ogden's River flowing. Walker

478      EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH.

has given this creek the name of Walnut Creek, from one of his trappers having brought into his camp a twig of that tree found near its head; a tree scarcely known so far west as this. Camped on Walnut Creek, having made 14 miles.

            November 8.—At about 6 miles from our camp of last night, we struck Ogden's River. It is about 25 feet wide here and about 2 feet deep, with a tolerable current. Crossing without difficulty, we struck the emigrant wagon-trail. Continuing down it for a few miles, we encamped a little below where the river receives a tributary of considerable size, coming from the northwest. Made to-day about 14 miles.

            November 9.—Still on the emigrant trail. This has proved of great assistance to our tired animals; they appear to have new life. Met to-day several Sho-sho-nee Indians, who report three separate parties of emigrants having passed this fall. About four miles above our camp of to-night are some hot springs, too hot to bear one's hand in. Walnut Creek empties into the river about 11 miles below our camp. Made 19 miles.

            November 10.—Crossed the river several times. At one point, the high, rocky ridges that bound the bottom came so close to the banks of the river, we were obliged to pass in the water. The timber is principally cottonwood.

            November 11.—We left the river to avoid a bend it makes. Ascending some grassy hills, encamped at several springs. Bunch-grass plenty; 11 miles.

            November 12.—Continued among the hills for about five miles, when we again struck the river. The country is becoming more open. The hills on the right make a wide sweep from the river, returning to it again at our camp of this evening, November 13. On the left bank the mountains are close and high and rugged in their character. Near our camp on this bank they make a bend forming a valley, through which one would suppose the river to flow. The character of the rocks is changing; more bold, basaltic.

            The river presents but little variety, always the same winding, crooked stream. On the 23d November, we arrived at the sink or lake. This lake is about 8 miles long by 2 in width ; it is marshy, overgrown with bulrushes, at the upper end. On the eastern side is a range of low hills at the upper, and increasing in height at the lower end of the lake. On the western side is a level plain of clay mixed with sand. The country here becomes more desolate in its appearance. We have been fifteen days on this river, making a distance of nearly 200 miles. The grass has been generally good. The only timber is a few cottonwood trees and willows; the latter are in great abundance on its banks, though very small. The river-bottoms vary from 4 to 20 miles in width. Vegetation failing as we approach the sink, the soil becoming more sandy and sterile. The Indians we first met were better clad than one would suppose ; having also a few horses among them. As we approached the sink, however, they appeared much more indigent and shy, hiding from us on our approach ; raising smokes and other signs of warning to their friends of the approach of strangers. They belong to the Bannack tribe of Diggers, and are generally badly disposed toward the whites. Walker was attacked some two years since by a party of them numbering, he thought, near 600 ; these he defeated without loss to his own party. The loss on the part of the Indians numbered 16. Walker was engaged at that time exploring for a route into California, through the Sierra Nevada.

HUMBOLDT RIVER, CARSON LAKE, AND OWENS RIVER AND LAKE. 479

            A curious feature of this river is the number of small streams near its banks and immediately in its bed. We tried the temperature of one on the 10th instant with a thermometer graduated to 160°, to which point the mercury rose in a few seconds. From its situation, forming as it does a long line of travel of the emigrant parties, this river will soon become an interesting and noted point in this now great wilderness. Portions of its immediate bottoms may be capable of cultivation ; but the bare, sandy bluffs that surround or border it, produce little save bunch-grass, and no timber. Great numbers of ducks and geese are to be found in this region. A small gray duck is of excellent flavor. Provisions becoming scarce. Leaving our camp of the 24th November, on the outlet of the lake, we crossed a low, gravelly ridge, mixed with heavy sand, for 4 or 5 miles; we then struck a level plain resembling the dry bed of a lake, extending to a low range of hills on the western side 10 or 12 miles distant, and from 20 to 25 miles on the eastern side, running in a northeasterly direction, and continuing east of Ogden's or Mary's Lake, probably connecting with some of the high ranges visible from the river on the 18th and 19th. As on the plains on the western side of the Great Salt Lake, the incrustation yielded to the tread of our horses. Nothing can appear worse than the surrounding country; the glare of the white sand, relieved only by the rugged distant mountains, the absence of animal and vegetable life, make up a whole in the way of dreariness and desolation.

            The outlet of Ogden's Lake, after running several miles toward the rim of this basin, forms a large marsh in the midst of the sand-hills. Our animals failing, we encamped among the sand-hills, without grass or water.

            November 25.—A couple of hours' ride this morning brought us to the outlet of another lake, where we encamped, having ridden twenty-five miles. The water in this stream is running, but is indifferently good. The banks are from 8 to 10 feet high ; growth willow. Sand-hills on either side. On the east runs a low rocky range, beyond which are ridges and peaks of higher mountains. About eight miles below us this stream forms a large marsh, hidden from us by sand-hills. Walker tells me that its waters are extremely disagreeable. I found skulls of the natives killed here by Walker's party some ten years since. The emigrants turn toward the California Mountains from the sink of Ogden's River. After a noon halt and rest to our animals, we crossed and continued down the river, camping near the lake.

            November 26.—In a southeasterly direction nine miles along the border of the lake. For 30 or 40 yards about its edge in width is a thick growth of bulrushes. It is a very pretty sheet of water; various kinds of fowl in abundance. The greatest length is about 11 miles. On the eastern side runs a low range of burnt rock hills. The lake is bounded on the west by a low range of mountains; about midway on the western side a stream enters it. Slightly timbered; probably cottonwood.

            November 27.—In a southern course, over a level for about 3 miles, then crossing a low ridge of sand and burnt rock down an open ravine, leading into a larger plain, we made camp among the sand-hills, at some Indian wells of bad water, thoroughly impregnated with sulphur. These wells, with a little trouble, could be made a good watering-place; but, as they now are, it was with the greatest difficulty that we could procure a sufficiency for our animals. There was plenty of good bunch-grass

480      EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH

about camp ; no fuel but greasewood. Continuing our route over low, heavy sand-hills, we rejoined Captain Fremont at our place of rendezvous, Walker's Lake. He had reached that point four days ahead of us, having traveled over a mountainous country, finding in his route plenty of grass, water, game, and Indians; the latter very shy, not being accustomed to the sight of white men in their desolate country. The river of Walker's Lake is a fine, bold stream, 30 to 40 feet wide, with considerable current, timbered with fine large cottonwoods, its bottoms covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, wild peas, and rushes. We had anticipated a glorious feast of fish on our arrival at this point, from the glowing descriptions Walker had given us of great quantities of fine salmon-trout which frequent the river and lake. In this, however, we were doomed to disappointment. The fishing season being over, "Carro hoggi" was the only reply we could obtain to our many signs and inquiries after the finny tribe from the few Indians that still lingered about the lake.

            To-morrow (November 29) Captain Fremont leaves us again, this time to take his old trail of 1843, while the main body of camp will continue down the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada, which Walker had discovered when exploring this section of the country some 10 years ago. We will remain here 9 or 10 days to recruit our animals, as many of them are exhausted.

            December 8.—Once more took up our line of march. During our stay at our camp on Walker's River the weather has been clear and cold. Thermometer at sunset 23° above zero; and at sunrise 4°. The river frozen hard; it has been a strange mixture of winter and summer. The Indians are of a much lower grade than any I have yet seen. They are, however, very friendly. I visited some of their huts near the mouth of the river. They had some very pretty decoy-ducks, made from the skin of those birds, neatly stretched over a bulrush float. There were four or five old women hovering over a fire of a few willow twigs of six or eight inches in length. I thought if the personification of witches ever existed, these were of them. Their withered bodies, almost entirely naked and emaciated, their faces smeared with dirt and tar, the dull, idiotic stare of their eyes, trembling from cold and dread of our intentions toward them, rendered them to me the most pitiable objects I had ever seen. A couple of children, nestling close to the fire, showed more the signs of wonder in their countenances than fear. Some of these children, notwithstanding the hardships of their lives, only dependent on grass-seeds and the few fish they can catch, any large game being unknown hereabouts, have really lively and interesting countenances ; but the expression leaves them with youth ; their future, being one of continued privation, soon dulls the light of the eye, and the face becomes heavy and stolid in expression. It was at this camp we have made our first essay on horse-meat. Throwing aside all antipathies I, with the others, enjoyed our meal. On this river, with but a couple of exceptions, is the only large timber we have met since leaving the Timpanogos. Traveling three miles on the river and about twelve on the shores of the lake, we made our camp among some low sand-hills. A range of burnt rock hills extends a few miles further back, while on the opposite side of the lake the dark mountains come bluff to the water's edge. No fuel but greasewood and grass. We longed heartily for the fires of our last ten-days' camp, the weather being excessively cold.

HUMBOLDT RIVER, CARSON LAKE, AND OWENS RIVER AND LAKE. 481

            December 9.—Camped near the head of the lake. No grass ; the water exceedingly bad and salty. Charley, (our cook,) to improve (?) the already horrid taste given to our coffee by the bad water, added some greasewood or other noxious weed, giving it a flavor too unsavory even for appetites as keen-set as ours. This lake is about twenty-two miles in length, and eleven or twelve in the widest part. To the eastward of our camp runs a valley. About twelve miles down it Walker says he found springs of good water and an abundance of good grass, the springs forming a small lake. To-night the horses, driven to desperation by their bad fare, a large number of them eluding the vigilance of the guard escaped to the other side of the lake, where they were found in the morning, having discovered somewhat better grass than we had at our camp.

            December 10.—Leaving camp we traveled up a valley leading from the southern end of Walker's Lake, a little east of south ; at about eight miles we crossed a low ridge, heavy sand and scattering bunch-grass. Traveling up the general direction of a ravine, in a southeasterly course for about six miles, we made camp late at some springs near the foot of a basaltic rock ridge.

            December 11.—Continued our route down the valley in a southerly direction. Walker's trail of two years ago passed to the left of our camp three or four miles. Passed several wells dug by the Indians, but they were dry. Also, a large corral or pen made of sage and cedars for the purpose of ensnaring deer. Continued about six miles into the mountains by a rough and broken road. Were unable to find water. In the evening we encamped among some of the largest sage I have ever seen. This gave us an abundance of fuel, and also served us in constructing pens about our different camp fires as a protection from the cold. We soon forgot in slumber our lack of water Here we killed our last beef, if what was left of the animal could be dignified by such a name.

            December 12.—To-day we obtained a fine view of the great Sierra Nevada from the far north till it faded on the distant horizon far to the south of us. This bold and rocky barrier, with its rugged peaks, separates us from the valley of California. We are to travel along its base till by its lessening height it will offer but a slight obstacle to our passage across it. To the southeast and east of us mountain rises beyond mountain as far as the eye can see. Descending by a break-neck road we reached, toward evening, a small valley, where we made camp. We found a portion of the sand leveled very smooth and some willow hoops lying about, with fresh signs to convince us that the place had not long been vacated by a party of Indians.

            December 13.—Still among the burnt rock hills, interspersed with grassy valleys. Descending into a large, open, grassy valley, we fed upon the dry bed of a stream that has both wood and water six or seven miles farther up. Camped at a large spring that spreads into a marsh.

            December 14.—Traveled down the same valley. Water rises and sinks, breaking through a rocky ridge to the east ; rising again in several cold springs at the entrance of the gap, runs a short distance and forms a stinking lake. Crossing the ridge by an Indian trail, we came into another valley watered by a fine warm stream, in which I took a delightful bath. Good grass and plenty—quite a treat for our tired animals.

482      EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH.

            The boys brought in some roots they had found near a couple of Indian huts, the inmates having fled at their approach. The root was of some water-plant of good flavor. They were plaited together in ropes, something after the manner of doing up onions at home. Our old cook at fault again to-day, boiling a large piece of rosin soap in our coffee. Rather unlucky just now, when coffee is coffee.

            December 15.—The same water of yesterday still finds its way into another valley more to the east. We crossed into this. Its greatest length is from north to south. On the eastern side is a high chain of mountains, about the height of those on eastern side of Utah Lake. The mountains throw out some small streams, which sink before they fairly reach the valley. The road in the forenoon of to-day broken and sandy. We have gained four days on Walker's route of 1843, from camp of December 10 to this place. A better route lies to the right of our road.

            December 16.—To-day struck Owen's River. It is a fine, bold stream, larger than Walker's. The same chain of mountains bounds it on the east, while on the western side rises, like a wall, the main chain of the California Mountains. Our rations are becoming extremely scant. The men being all on foot, they feel their appetites much quickened by the additional exercise of walking. A few more clays we hope will bring us to the land of plenty.

            December 17 and 18.—Still on the river; obliged to keep some distance from it on account of a large marsh. Wild-fowl in abundance. Walker went in search of some salt, which he found, incrusted to the thickness of a quarter of an inch on the surface of the earth. The Indians are numerous here, though they keep out of our sight. They are badly disposed. Colonel Childs had trouble with them here. They shot one of his men. Walker's party killed some twenty-five of them, while on his side some of his men were wounded and eight or nine horses killed.

            December 19.—Camped on lake near the month of river. Grass poor. Ducks and geese plentiful.

            December 20. Traveling down the lake. Main California Mountains close on our right within half a mile of us. This lake is somewhat irregular in its shape, lying north and south ; is about fifteen miles long, the widest part about seven miles. On the western side there are several capes. It is surrounded by high mountains. Water strong, disagreeable, salty, nauseous taste. There are Indian fires among the rocks within half a mile of us. None ventured nearer. They appear to be well supplied with horses, judging from the quantity of sign. Along the route of to-day we crossed several streams coming from the mountains, some of them dry ; all slightly timbered with cottonwood.

            December 21.—Leaving lower end of lake, we passed among some sandy hollows, falling into a larger ravine leading south. Passing a good camp for grass and water, the hollow narrowed, bounded by hills of minutely broken black rock, opening afterward into a large plain; camped at some springs on the slope of the main California Mountains ; grass, fresh and green, owing to the late rains. To-day we met for the first time the yuca tree, nicknamed by the men "Jeremiah," in lieu of some better title. These trees have a grotesque appearance, a straight trunk, guarded about its base by long bayonet-shaped leaves ; its irregular and fantastically shaped limbs give

HUMBOLDT RIVER, CARSON LAKE, AND OWENS RIVER AND LAKE. 483

to it the appearance of an ancient candelabra. It bears a beautiful white flower. We passed to-day Child's cache, where, on account of his animals failing, he was obliged to bury the contents of his wagons, among which was a complete set of mill-irons.

            December 22.—Passed to-day a salt-lake, half a mile long and about 200 yards wide; leaving this, we turned up a huge hollow, for about four miles, to find a camp. At this point, there may be a pass over the mountains, judging from the number of Indian trails joining together here. The ascent, however, is very steep, and it was judged advisable not to attempt it, our animals not, being in a condition to undergo any such experiments. So we continued our route in a southerly direction, among the foot-hills of the mountains.

            December 23 and 24.—Still among the hills. On the 23d, a, mule was lost, with its pack. Archambeau, Stradspeth, and White were sent back in search of it ; returned on the evening of the 24th, with the animal. The mule was loaded with, to us, a very valuable cargo, sugar and coffee, with some of the " possibles," of Stradspeth and White. The mule had wandered up one of the many ravines in the hillsides. When the Indians were discovered, they were sitting very coolly among the rocks, where they had driven the mule, dividing the spoils; there were three of them. Of the sugar they had made a just division, but the coffee was to them perfectly useless. They had already charred and pounded it, without coming to any satisfactory conclusion as to its use. The "possibles" shared the same fate as the eatables. Among the articles a blanket and an overcoat. Being three in their party, and being unable to divide these things equally in any other way, one had taken the blanket, and tearing the coat in two, gave a half of it to each of the others. On our men showing themselves, they fled precipitately, leaving the property behind. Collecting and re-arranging the pack, the men started for camp, bringing with them, as proof of their victory, some bows and arrows, a, large sack of sage-seed, about as digestible as sand, and a small sack of some compound, which we could not make out.; it was very palatable with coffee, of a dark chocolate color.*

            Our Christmas was spent in a most unchristmas-like manner. Our camp was made on the slope of the mountain, at some Indian wells of good water. The yuca tree is here in great abundance, furnishing us a plentiful supply of fuel. The camp-fires blazed and cracked joyously, the only merry things about us, and all that had any resemblance to that merry time at home. The animals, on account of grass, were guarded about a quarter of a mile from camp, higher up the mountain.

            December 25.—Christmas day opened clear and warm. We made our camp today at some springs among the rocks; but little grass for our animals. Dined to-day, by way of a change, on one of our tired, worn mules, instead of a horse.

            Turning from our camp of the 25th into the mountain by an easy ascent, and over a somewhat broken road, arriving on the 27th, on the head-waters of a river.+ Continuing down this stream, on the 28th we made camp at its forks. This is the appointed place of rendezvous. There are no signs yet of the Captain. Our pro-

_________________________________________

*I have seen the same dish among the Indians of California ; it is prepared from roasted grasshoppers and large crickets, pounded up, and mixed with, when procurable, some kind of animal grease.

+ Now called Kern River.

484      EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH.

visions have entirely failed ; save the few remaining horses of our cavallada, there was not much prospect of obtaining fresh supplies. To have killed these would have been to deprive us of the means of transportation of our effects and the results of the expedition, in case we are not joined by Captain Fremont in this place. A party of Indians visited our camp, from whom we traded a colt. The hunters brought in a few small deer, the meat extremely poor. A small piece of venison, with as much cold water as one could drink, furnished breakfast, dinner, and supper in one. We became reduced to acorns, and on this swinish food made our New-Year's feast. This forms the principal food of the natives, here and in the valley. Our camp is situated in a beautiful valley, about six miles in length, and well-timbered with pine, cedars, and cottonwood, while the mountains which surround it are of the usual growth of the Sierra, the majestic redwood, &c. The river is a bold stream, coming from the northeast, The Indians inhabiting this region are of the most degraded class, entirely naked, and with scarcely a sufficiency of food to sustain life. I was amused at coming suddenly on a half a dozen of these characters; being armed, they, probably having a dread of pistols, immediately commenced crossing themselves in the most devout manner, at the same time muttering "Christiano, Christiano," the probable extent of their Spanish, hoping to avert any evil intent we might have had toward them.

            Since leaving Walker's Lake we have traveled through a country having a few pretty spots, but for the most part a sandy waste, broken by short chains and isolated mountains. Bunch-grass is found among most of the sand-hills. Water, save in the rivers, is not to be had in anything like a sufficiency. Piñon and willow are the principal timbers. From our camp of December 26, toward the south, as far as the eye could reach, lay a continued plain of sand, relieved only by an occasional hill of burnt rock rearing itself above the level, adding, if possible, to the desolation of the scene, with no game, save now and then a hare, and perchance a stray goat. Lizards are here in abundance, and form the principal food of the hungry natives. At our camp the weather has been extremely fine, warm, and sunshine. On the 13th of January there was a severe storm of snow and sleet; a shower followed that soon removed all appearance of winter from the valley, but the mountains retained this, their first winter covering.

            January 18, 1846.—Raised camp and traveled about five miles into the mountains, stopping for the night at the hunter's camp, in a pretty valley; snow about two feet deep. An abundance of the most beautiful timber, live-oak, pine, redwood, &c.

            January 19.—To-day we reached the summit ; snow 2 1/2 feet deep. From here we had the first view of the much-wished-for Valley of California. It lay beneath us, bright in the sunshine, gay and green, while about us everything was clothed in the chilly garb of winter.

            On the 21st January we reached the valley ; our descent was rough and broken ; the mountain well watered and densely timbered. Among the foot-hills are beautiful groves of live and other oaks, clear from growth of underwood ; the fine grass gives the country the appearance of a well-kept park. We passed two Indian villages; the huts were built of tule or bulrush. The men entirely naked; the only covering the women possessed was a kind of petticoat made of tule. The country is much cut up

HUMBOLDT RIVER, CARSON LAKE, AND OWENS RIVER AND LAKE. 485

by gullies. The weather is warm like spring, the young grass and some few flowers just putting forth. Notice a small blue flower particularly very abundant.

            Crossing several small streams that find their way into the great Tulare Lake, we encamped, on the evening of the 26th of January, on a fine bold stream.* The whole country is well watered, and capable of high cultivation. Oaks and willows in abundance. The river+ heads in the Sierra Nevada, running in a west, a little south, and then in a southerly direction. Walker thinking to make a cut-off at the bend, we were obliged to spend a most uncomfortable night at some holes of water, amid a storm of cold rain, with no fuel save a few willows.

            January 28.—After searching in vain for the river, we camped, at 9 o'clock at night, among the foot-hills of the Coast range, without grass, water, or fire, having traveled through immense fields of old tide, the horses sinking at almost every step as deep as their bellies; having to be hauled out only to sink again, owing to the loose rotten soil. This has been the most tedious clay we have had since we entered the valley, and particularly trying to our animals in their present weak state. Cloudy and rainy all day.

            January 29.—Leaving our miserable camp of last night early this morning, we struck a northerly course, passing a large dry creek timbered with cottonwood, over a plain destitute of vegetation (the grass and shrubbery having been destroyed by the wild horses), we made camp on a large slough.++ Manuel, to-day, killed a fat wild horse—as acceptable a thing as could have happened, as we were out of meat, and had been so for two days.

            January 30.—Continuing down the slough for four or five miles, we struck a bold stream—the San Joaquin. It is heavily timbered with oak and willow. Wild horses and elk begin to show themselves.

            February 1.—Jim Connor and Wetowa (two Delawares) tracked a large grizzly bear to his thicket. The whole camp prepared themselves for the attack: after much difficulty, he was killed. This animal was one of the largest size; he must have weighed at least 900 pounds. This acquisition to our larder enlivened the spirits of the men, and mirth abounded at the various camp-fires that night ; the song and joke, the accompaniments of plenty in the wilderness, could be heard everywhere.

            Continuing up the valley toward Suter's fort, on the 6th we arrived and made camp on the Calaveras, a tributary of the San Joaquin. Messrs. Fabbol and Walker started on ahead to hear if they could obtain any tidings of Captain Fremont. They returned again in the evening in company with Big Fallen, an old mountaineer, known more commonly by the sobriquet of "Le Gros." From him we learned that the captain was at the pueblo of San Jose with the rest of his camp. The next morning Fallen and Walker started for the pueblo to give him intelligence of our whereabouts, while we would return to the crossing of the San Joaquin to await further orders. Yesterday Jim Secondi (a Delaware) killed another bear, the counterpart of the one killed on the 1st instant.

__________________________________

* The Rio Reyes, or Lake Fork.

+ Walker mistook this river for the South Fork of the San Joaquin.

++ This slough, at high water, connects the waters of the San Joaquin with the great Tulare Lake.

486      EXPLORATIONS ACROSS THE GREAT BASIN OF UTAH.

            February 11.—To-day we were joined by Carson and Owens, at the crossing. Crossing the river in boats or rafts, made of tule.

            February 15.—To-day we met a party of the boys with fresh horses, sent out to meet us. We passed through the pueblo of San Jose. The country between the pueblo and the Calaveras is beautiful, and well suited for cultivation; the streams are well timbered with different species of oaks. The flowering season is commencing, adding great beauty to the plains, by their variegated colors. The mission of San Jose is about twelve miles from the town, situated at the foot of a mountain, on the road from the crossing of the San Joaquin. It was formerly one of the richest missions in the upper country ; it presents now but a poor appearance, and shows the evil resulting from the removal of the padres, whose posts were replaced by rapacious "administradors" of government. The building is very large and built of adobes; the roof is of tiles. Long rows of adobe buildings, one story high, used as the dwellings of the native converts, are now in a most dilapidated condition, scarcely affording shelter for the few miserable Indians who still cling to those hearths, where they had been raised, by the kindness of the founders, to something like civilization. The remains of the gardens and vineyards show the care and labor bestowed on the grounds by the fathers. Opposite to the mission, on an eminence, is the Campo Santro ; the entrance to it is surmounted by a large cross. From here we can see an arm of the bay of San Francisco. The pueblo of San Jose is a small town of some 50 or 60 houses, most of them in a very crumbling condition, showing the slothful habits of the people. We arrived about noon at the " Laguna farm," where we rejoined Captain Fremont, who was anxiously awaiting our arrival. Both parties were again united, without any serious accident having happened to either, and both had had their share of hard times.

            NOTE.—When separating from Captain F. on Walker's Lake, Walker had given a description of the valley of California, where a river which he supposed to be the Rio Reyes (and on which we encamped from the 27th of December till the 18th of January, 1846, the same which is now called Kern's River), enters the valley, the description and the rude map which I made from it, answered to the markings of the country very well. Supposing we had entered the valley at the river Reyes, we crossed the several small streams that find their way into the Tulare Lake, and when reaching the Lake Fork or Rio Reyes, he (Walker) fancied himself on the South Fork of San Joaquin. I remember Walker's telling me that the river made a great bend to the southward, and to make a cut-off, we left its banks, and in expectation of again meeting it, traveled till we found ourselves climbing the Coast range. Walker had fallen into the error on a previous trip years ago, and had, in search of the river, crossed the Coast range toward Monterey. On his return trip he left the country by a more southern pass in the Sierra, which Captain Fremont calls Walker's pass. Walker's old pass was to the northward of this by what is now called Kern River. The mistake Walker made in the name of the river on which we had camped to wait for Captain Fremont was the cause of his failure to make a junction with us, as had been prearranged, at Walker's Lake ; Captain Fremont, as will be found by his memoir of 1848, having ascended the Rio Reyes (proper) in search of our party.

E. M. K.