[J.H.R., Diary of Explorations in Search of the Colorado Mines No. 4, Daily Alta California, August 2, 1862]

 

DIARY OF EXPLORATIONS IN SEARCH OF THE COLORADO MINES.

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No. IV.

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[From the Special Traveling Correspondent of the Alta California]

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Resolve to Return.

            In view of these discouraging reports, a number of the men encamped at Chocol- Walla held a council, wherein the pros and cons in favor of going on or returning were ably and fully discussed. One of the speakers thought that the gold, even if it were to be obtained, might cost too dearly, and he did not believe in paying from $50 to $100 per oz. for it, when it was not worth more than $18 50. Another questioned, whether it was paying too much for gold, or too high a price for water! As for himself, he did not believe in working daily in such hot weather, and at such labor as dry-washing for gold, merely to pay for Mexican prison fare of Pinole and water.

            Another who had mined last summer in Australia and last winter at Salmon river, declared his intentions of "going through" and taking the chances. He looked upon these migratory movements of miners in the light of a "wild goose flight" anyhow, only with this difference, that the geese timed their flights to suit the seasons, whereas he had gone north in the Winter, and had now come south in the Summer. Speaker No. 4. argued that next to the determination of "going through" is the wisdom of knowing when you had "gone far enough." No. 5. was one of those pious youths who should have died young. He had become quite depressed in spirits since Sanchez had spoken of the small sums staked at monte, and the desperate character of those who had nothing to stake until they stole it from those who had ; and so he decided that he would rather be a doorkeeper in the temple of "Faro," in San Francisco, than dwell in the brush tents of the ungodly. So far as the value of the precious metal went, why, he had only to remark that he preferred the California $20 pieces to the $18 60 per oz. chispas of the Colorado, the more especially as the former had already passed through the various processes of "dry-washing" and "blowing" at the Mint. Our teamster would have rather met these returning parties a hundred miles further back. As it was, he would go no further, as he valued his horses more than he did his freight. He would sell out cheap and return home. He knew what his wife would say — just this: "You did well to return." He had lost time, labor and money on the trip, but he thought he could make it up again sooner at home than in the Colorado mines, judging by the accounts of the men just from there, and he could console himself for any further regrets with the reflection that he had on the way hither saved the lives of two men who were dying of thirst. Further, he believed in the man who wrote the letter brought by Sanchez; that alone would induce him to return. On his way back he would do all in his power to dissuade other teamsters from proceeding a foot further on the road. Those who recommended this road for wagon travel may be good mountaineers and good fellows: but they haven't learned the first rudiments of what constitutes a good wagon road, "natural turnpike" though it may be.

            My companion and I reasoned together, and the conclusion arrived at was that he, taking the two best animals, would go on to the "diggings," while I would return with the used up "pinto." The Holcomb Valley boys decided to remain where they were for a week or two, if necessary, before going on; and the other party, in the same ravine, concluded to stop a few days to recruit their horses. Fountain sold out the few goods he had, to these parties, at Los Angeles prices, and was prepared to take the back track the next morning. Several of us agreed to accompany him. "Charley," the ex-steward of the "Bella Union," sold out "at less than cost," and on three months' credit besides, "to make it an object" to the buyer, Charley Cunningham. The buyer had some goods that he was bound to take in to the river, and as soon as his animals were fit to "make the riffle," would pack over the forty-mile stretch of desert. Our preparations were soon completed the next morning between my companion and myself, for a fair start in opposite directions. The bay horse and dun "Mary" were saddled to go East, and the pack-saddle and a canteen of water placed on "Pinto," to go West. By six o'clock A. M. of June 24th, our train of disappointed gold-hunters were on their way bark to the "Water in the Cañon," in Brown's Pass. I rode over to Tabe-saca, in the hope of finding water for my horse, but it was dry, although the last visitors had dug the hole six feet deeper than we had left it. "Pinto" showed signs of disappointment, so I partly allayed his thirst by pouring the contents of my canteen in my hat and gave him a drink.

            Riding towards the Pass, I saw a cascade of water falling from one of the high mountains of the Sierra Nevada, miles distant; and when going down the Pass, an hour later, I observed several antelopes loping up a cañon, running east and west from the Pass. This I afterwards ascertained was the cañon marked on Frink's plan of the route, where the surveying party had found plenty of water. It is about two miles farther east than the Tule Cañon, and differs from that in its bearings, although on the same side (north) of the Pass, and in not being passable for wagons, on account of a ledge of high rocks running across it about one hundred yards from the entrance. The antelopes knew of it although we did not. I also noticed, lying on the road, several horns which had been shed by the mountain sheep, which are also to be found in this region.

            I have been told of a pair of these horns that weighed 40 lbs. The sprightly wearers use them to break their fall when jumping head foremost down a cliff or precipice. My informant did not state whether the animal's neck was broken by the fall, but I should consider it a "damperilousoperation" that acrobats would do well not to attempt. Arrived at Tule Cañon, and encamped at the first spring, where Pinto gave proof of his Dashaway principles by draining the spring so dry that I was forced to postpone taking tea till it gave a fresh supply. Found two Germans encamped there, who had reached the cañon in advance of the others of the train, who were yet awaiting at the Two Palms the arrival of their wagons. One of my Teutonic landsleute had his face badly bruised by a kick from a bronco horse.

            Now, my stock of medicines for this journey having been put up in a hurry, and considerably reduced en route, did not comprise a much larger assortment than the sloop Maggie's "medicine chest," which consisted of ''one bottle of Castor Oil," yet I had remaining in my haversack a little Tincture of Arnica, bathing with which during the night relieved the poor fellow considerably. They were both much disappointed at hearing the reports from the river, and one of them (not the injured man) pronounced the whole affair "ein unverantwortlicher humbug." Now I understand," said he, "what they meant when they told me you had to 'blow' the Colorado gold dust; I expects it takes a d——d sight of blowing. Ach, mein Gott, mein Gott! what will my wife say? This trip has cost me already yust $105, and it will take $45 more to put me back in the blacksmith shop in San Francisco." But he bore it bravely, notwithstanding these very natural regrets, and leaving mining tools and provisions (reserving only enough of the latter to suffice until reaching San Bernardino) where he had with no much toil and difficulty packed them, he and his companion turned their horses' heads westward ho! the next morning. That same evening, three gentlemen from Los Angeles arrived at the Cañon, on their way to the mines. They scouted the idea of going back, and gave it as their opinion that it was only gamblers and that class of men who were afraid of work and never did any work, who were running away from the diggings. As the baggage of these worthy gentlemen consisted of a six-shooter, a bowie knife, a serape, a small sack of pinole, a tin cup, and several packs of cards to each individual, their opinion may stand recorded for what it is worth.

            The next morning, on my way to the Two Palms, I overtook a Mexican mounted on a miserable mule, who had come from Chocol-Walla during the night, and having passed the cañon before daylight, failed to notice the entrance. He was now suffering with thirst, which I relieved by giving him a hearty pull at my canteen. Blessings on that canteen! like the widow's cruise, so often referred to as an inexhaustible institution, it was never empty; and many a thirsty throat has it moistened on this memorable journey. My Mexican friend, when filled with water, was full of gratitude, and whether he had already reached the raving stage of the thirst fever when I applied the hydropathic remedy, I know not, but he babbled of green fields in Napa Valley, of which be professed to own two miles square in his own right and by Spanish grant, and I was then and there, in Brown's Pass, on the 25th day of June, A.D.,1862, authorized to act as his sole agent, to make a satisfactory settlement of what had become, through the intervention of squatters and lawyers, a most intricate piece of business. He promised to furnish me with all the requisite papers in Los Angeles, but alas! for the evanescence of thirst-relieved thankfulness, I have never heard from him since.

J. H. R.