[Henry DeGroot, Sketches of the Washoe County #9, Alta California, March 6, 1860]

 

Sketches of the Washoe Country — No. 9.

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BY H. DeGROOT.

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TRUCKEE RIVER AND VALLEY.

            The north end of Steamboat Valley runs into the Truckee Meadows, passing over which we arrive at Truckee River, a stream some six or eight rods wide, and carrying a large volume of water. It rises by two branches, the one known as the Big Truckee, coming from Lake Bigler, and the other on the Little Truckee, coming from a lake of the same name, and flows in a generally north-east course to Pyramid Lake, into which it empties. These meadows produce a heavy growth of grass, the land being of an excellent quality; but they are not well adapted to the raising of vegetables, owing to the early frosts. There is also a considerable extent of grass land ten miles further down, on the south bank of the stream, known as the Little Meadows ; but, with these exceptions, there is not much arable or grazing land along the Truckee. There is, however, some bunch grass on the hills, which, taken in conjunction with several narrow bottoms along the lateral valleys, and its generally sheltered character, renders this district much esteemed as a range for stock. There is also a good deal of game here — hare and sage-bens being especially plentiful. The Indians, with whom this is a favorite winter abode, take quantities of these by means of fire-arms, nets, and other devices ; and as fish are also abundant in the Truckee, they rarely suffer from hunger. To this place, on the approach of cold weather, not only the Washoes, whose territory lies adjacent, but also bands of the Pah-Utahs, from a greater distance repair, remaining in friendly proximity until the return of mild weather enables them to again seek the mountains.

            But although the valley of the Truckee does not contain a very large amount of good lands, it is a name possessing much interest from its connection with the history of early immigration. Along this river lay the route most traveled by the first California pioneers. Coming down the Humboldt, they naturally struck across to this stream, and, following up its banks, entered California by the Pass and road that still bear its name. Here, too, near its forks, at a point known as Starvation Camp, occurred the Donner tragedy — an event that will forever render the name of that humble emigrant family a synonym of heroism and horror. Two cabins, now in ruins, yet stand on the spot; and even so late as a year or two since, the ghastly evidences of the cannibalistic feast were still scattered round, filling the passer-by with dread, and admonishing the belated emigrant to hasten over the fatal barrier that lay between him and a land of security.

            There is, also, one other fact connecting this name with the historic events of California — the Truckee being the identical Gold Lake, in search of which a party of adventurers went over the mountains, at the instigation of the notorious Greenwood, in the summer of 1849. This mountain lake, under another and more attractive name, was the first object to awaken that wild spirit of cupidity and reckless adventure that has since been so rife, and filled the annals of California with so many fatal delusions.

LONG VAI.LEY.

            Passing out from the Truckee to the northwest, by a handsome wagon road, six miles, brings us to Peavine Spring, at the head of Long Valley. About ten miles further on, the road deflects to the west, and passing through the Yuba Gap, leads to California. This Valley is nearly thirty miles long — fully forty, following the windings of the stream flowing through it, and has an average width of four or five miles. It is one of the best districts for stock in the whole country, and over 5,000 head of cattle were feeding in it at one time last full. There are but few settlers in it as yet; and as Major Dodge, the Indian Agent for Western Utah, has made a Reservation for the tribes hereabout, on both this and the Truckee, as also in the valley of Pyramid Lake, it would hardly be expedient for whites to settle upon these lands with a view to permanent residence, unless this action of the Agent shall be revoked by Congress — a proceeding that may be looked for in view of the changed condition of affairs in that quarter. This valley is too much subject to early frosts to favor the cultivation of gardens, or, perhaps, even the raising of grain.

HONEY LAKE VALLEY.

            Next north, in this chain of valleys, is that of Honey Lake, the most important in point of fertility and extent of settlement, of any in the series. Like that of Mono Lake, this valley is situate near the line between California and Utah; and if the 120th meridian is correctly laid down in that most excellent map of this State, published by Britton & Rey, then it is wholly on the California side. But as Honey Lake is yet the subject of disputed jurisdiction, and naturally belongs to the system of lakes and valleys stretched along the rim of the Great Basin, it may as well be considered a part thereof in the present writing. Moreover, the inhabitants have always practically considered themselves as living in Utah, having repudiated the authority of this State, and taken a part in the primary movements directed towards organizing the new Territory of Nevada, sending delegates to the Convention for drafting [a] Constitution, electing officials under such Constitution, and now being represented by them in the embryo Legislature existing by virtue of its provisions. The Governor elect, under this provisional organization, is himself a resident of Honey Lake Valley and was one of the earliest to encourage, and the most active in promoting, this movement.

            The name of this locality is supposed to have been given it by the early settlers on account of the great quantities of the honey dew observed by them on their first arrival ; a supposition that has at least the semblance of plausibility, since this substance is found abundantly precipitated all over this region during the spring and early summer months. This valley, in round numbers, may be said to be forty miles long and twenty wide — the lake contained in it, fifteen miles by ten. It has no outlet, unless it be by subterranean passages ; as may well be, since its waters, as is now the case, sometimes dry entirely up, or rather disappear, leaving its bed nothing but a bank of mud. Its waters are shallow even at their highest stage. They are slightly alkaline to the taste, yet fit to drink..  A portion of its shores consist of marsh lands, covered with tule, other parts being firm and dry. The valley is divided between rich arable lands and beautiful green meadows, yielding an immense quantity of the most nutricious pasturage.

            Not only is this valley superior in point of soil, but it is more highly improved than any other in this range. For many miles the lands are enclosed with substantial fences, while good buildings have been erected by nearly all the inhabitants. Over ten thousand acres of grain — wheat, oats and corn — were raised last season, nearly the whole yielding even better than the average of California lands. The valley now contains about six hundred permanent residents, and, of late, a considerable floating population. The original settlers have each taken up 640 acres of land, in accordance with the laws of Utah, leaving very little, if any, good land unclaimed in the valley. The chief settlement, Susanville, is at the north end of the valley, some fifteen miles above the head of the lake, or rather the point where it used to be. Susan River and Willow Creek are the principal confluents of the Lake, but neither of them now reach it, sinking in the earth before arriving at what little water there is left. It is supposed the lake will again form at the period of high water in the Spring. The valley is well watered by springs and small streams from the mountains.

            On its north it has a high chain of rugged mountains, destitute of vegetation and timber. On the south, a still more lofty range, snow lying upon them even in mid-summer, but they are well clothed with forests. To the west is the Sierra, also heavily timbered ; to the east, a low range of bare hills, separating this valley from that of Pyramid Lake, with which, as also with Mud Lake, farther north, Honey Lake is sometimes united, by means of sloughs, at high stages of water. It is not a usual thing to have much snow in this valley, even in the winter, and never before the present season have cattle perished there from hunger. About 10,000 head have been wintered in the valley, of which perhaps one-fifth have died.

            There is a very remarkable group of hot springs near the head of this valley, consisting of eleven in number. One of these is twelve or fifteen feet square, and so deep that its bottom has never been ascertained by sounding. It boils furiously all the time, the scalding water leaping several feet high. The others are not so hot — some only tepid. They are all impregnated with mineral substances ; some of the waters being chalybeate, others containing alum, soda, etc.

            There are rumors of rich mineral discoveries having been made lately, at a point about three miles from Susanville ; but nothing definite is yet known as to their real extent or value. The rock taken out, there is good authority for believing, has yielded $154 per ton of gold and silver. Beyond this there is nothing authentic. At Black Springs, about one hundred miles northeast of the lake, silver ore was found several years ago, and sufficiently rich to attract notice at that time, although public attention was not then awake to the subject. There is good reason for thinking some further and more valuable discoveries of mineral riches will be made either in the valley, or beyond it, the coming season.

PYRAMID LAKE AND VALLEY.

            Ten miles east of Honey Lake, and separated from it by a range of high hills, is Pyramid Lake and Valley, a body of water so named from a pyramidal rock that rises 600 feet above its surface, forming an island near its eastern shore. This Lake is about thirty miles long and twelve wide, and, unlike the most of those surrounding it, has a considerable depth of water, the color being at all times of a deep transparent blue. The scenery about it is extremely grand, it being walled in on nearly every hand by volcanic precipices from two to three thousand feet high. It receives the Truckee River from the south, but has no outlet, unless by underground channels. It is connected with Winnemucka Lake, lying a few miles east of it, by means of a slough, and at high stages of water also with Mud Lake to the north.

            This latter is rather a shallow pond, drying entirely up in the summer, but in the winter covering a large extent of flat country with a few inches of water, converting it into what has been aptly named Mud Lakes. But as these lie without the scope of the mineral tract to which it was proposed to confine these sketches, a description of them will not be pursued further than to say, in their present condition they are alike devoid of utility to either man or brute — being, in consequence of their amphibious characteristics, unfitted for the sustentation of animals or the abode of fish. They are slowly filling up, and will, at some future period, become valuable meadow lands. Portions of them might even now be converted into such were they properly dyked and sown with grass. The country about them is destitute of vegetation, and, in many places, incrusted with salt.

            About the south end of Pyramid Lake, and for some distance up along the Truckee, are rich bottom lands, affording good pasturage at nearly all seasons of the year. At this place the Indians love to spend their winters, repairing to it with their horses on the approach of cold weather, and remaining until the animals get fat, which they generally do betimes, as the grass starts early in the spring. A Reservation has here been made for the native tribes, whereat they have gathered in large numbers the present winter, going in and remaining until this time of their own free-will. To this place the whites have also driven large herds of their cattle to winter ; many owners having taken in the entire of their stock from Washoe and Steamboat valleys. The Indians, although entitled to the exclusive possession of these lands, have not as yet objected seriously to the whites bringing in their stock. They are a quiet and well disposed race, and with anything like good treatment, and a just policy, will be likely to give no offence to our people.

            It has lately been observed that there is a daily tide of about fourteen inches in this lake; the water rising through the night, and receding during the day. Gold bearing-quartz, as well as silver ore of considerable value, have been found in its neighborhood.

            Crossing the Desert to the southeast for a distance of seventy-five miles, we arrive at the Sink of the Carson, another locality famous for feed, and especially valuable as a winter range. Here the climate is much milder than up near the toot of the mountains, the snow rarely ever falling to a greater depth than two or three inches, and never lying for more than four or five days at a time. To this place cattle are driven in, from all quarters, as the winter comes on. Several bands of horses have been taken there even from California, last fall.