[Henry DeGroot, Agricultural Resources of Western Utah, Sacramento Union, February 18, 1860]

 

[For the Union.]

AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES OF WESTERN UTAH.

            Messrs. Editors : While a good deal has been said and written of late about the mineral wealth of Western Utah, comparatively little has been published concerning its agricultural resources and advantages. Having spent several months last Summer and Autumn in that section of the country, during which I traveled over a good portion of it, I have compiled from notes kept at the time a few articles upon that subject, which, if you think they will interest or benefit the public, you may place in the columns of the Union.

LAKE VALLEY.

            On entering Utah by its principal and most convenient avenue of approach from central California — the Placerville route — the first land met with adapted to farming or valuable for pasturage, is that within the limits of Lake valley. It is true both this and Hope valley, a few miles beyond, are, as the line is now located in popular estimation and upon the maps, within the State of California. Yet, being on the Utah side of the main range of the Sierras, and the boundary, when definitely established, being as likely to throw them on one side as the other, we may for the present consider them as being within the limits of Utah Territory. Lake valley lies between two ridges of the Sierra Nevada, known as the East and West Summits. It is about ten miles long, with an average width of one mile, being narrow in its upper and southern portion, and expanding as it approaches Lake Bigler to a width of four or five miles. Through its entire length a large creek, known us the Upper Truckee, runs with a slow current and a devious course, forming many abrupt curves and deep pools on its way, and making, at places along its banks, alluvial deposits of great richness. On these fertile spots, as well as over the whole lower portion of the valley, the grass grows with luxuriance. There are, however large spots of poor soil, with numerous knolls and ridges raised a few feet above the general surface, upon which neither grass or other vegetation except trees is to be found. These barren places are composed of sand, gravel and debris, washed from the adjacent mountains. This creek, though but ten feet wide and one deep near the head of the valley, expands to fifty feet, and has a depth of three or four at its mouth.

            The valley not only widens as we go down it, but also improves in the quality of soil and the quantity of grass until as we near the lake it becomes a marshy meadow, and, finally, a tule swamp, affording a fine covert for water fowl, and a vast amount of feed for stock late in the season, yet wholly unfit for agricultural purposes. This valley contains some ten or twelve thousand acres of land — of which perhaps one fifth is worthless, the balance being about equally divided between tule and rich agricultural lands. The great drawback upon farming and gardening operations here, as well as in all these mountain valleys, is the frost, which falls almost every night in the year. It is not, however, of sufficient severity, as a general thing to injure the more hardy kinds of vegetation. Hence, very fair crops of grain and certain kinds of vegetables do well with irrigation and careful culture. Irrigation is indispensable to insure good crops of any kind, except upon a few patches that happen to possess just the proper amount of moisture. The facilities for irrigation along this valley are excellent ; fine streams of the purest water coming down from the mountains at short intervals throughout its whole length. It is bounded by lofty mountains on every side but the north. On the south and west these mountains are composed of bare and bleached granite, heaped up in lofty and abrupt masses; while on the east they have for the most part a more gentle declivity, though equally elevated at their summits.

            Both the mountains and the valley are well supplied with timber ; that on the former consisting of a scattered growth of pines, cedar and spruce. In addition to these, the valley contains cottonwood and alder, the growth of which, mixed with various shrubs, is, in places so dense as to form a perfect jungle; while others are but sparsely covered with or are entirely free from timber. The grass is not only abundant, but of good quality, causing stock to fatten rapidly and making excellent hay, some of which was cut by the residents of the valley last season, but by no means sufficient to supply the public demand, or subsist their own stock. A sufficiency for these purposes might easily have been made, but the inhabitants, like most of the early settlers in those parts, are a people by no means proverbial for their industrious or provident habits ; hence the grass that should have been converted into hay was suffered to dry up where it grew, or to be trampled down by the herds roaming over it. I doubt not more active and thrifty parties will turn this chance for making hay to a better account next season.

            In ordinary years not only very fair crops of grain, but also good, vegetables may be grown in this valley by proper management, though neither have been secured by the careless system of culture heretofore practiced. Fruit trees have not thus far turned out well, as, indeed, scarcely any have been planted ; and what were, have in few instances been properly cared for. It is doubtful, however, if any but the more hardy kinds of fruit, such as the apple and plum, will succeed. Strawberries and various other wild berries are indigenous to this and the neighboring valleys, where they grow and ripen in abundance. The ground is in many places covered with their vines and bushes. Of wild flowers there is by no means such a profusion as in California, though several species are met with, the sunflower being most common.

            Most of the good land in Lake valley is already covered with claims, there being some eight or ten settlers, most of whom claim large tracts for the purpose of herding their cattle. Some of them would no doubt sell out cheap, having made but little improvement, and being in fact nomadic in their mode of life, as they have to drive their stock elsewhere on the approach of Winter. The snow sometimes falls here to the depth of ten feet, and, laying for some weeks, renders it impossible for cattle to subsist without fodder, an article the shiftless habits of the owners have heretofore forbid them providing. The first settlements were made here seven or eight years ago, but these were broken up in 1855, several persons having been murdered and their houses burnt in July of that year, after which the place was for a time deserted. The valley is now destined to fill up rapidly, and, under the new order of things, will no doubt become a place of importance.

            Lake Bigler, as well as the creek running through the valley, are well stocked with trout, numbers of which are caught both by the professional angler and parties of pleasure. Bear, deer and hare are found upon the mountains ; geese, duck, mud hens and cranes plentifully about the water.

HOPE VALLEY.

            Ascending the east summit, and passing over its crest a distance of five miles, we arrived at Hope valley, lying about one thousand feet higher than that just described. It is four miles long and a little more than one mile wide. It is of irregular shape, owing to the spurs sent out from the mountains by which it is surrounded. It affords considerable grass and an abundance of water, but owing to its elevation can never be worth much for agricultural purposes. A good deal of the surface is covered with stones and broken by ravines. There is but little timber in the valley, though the surrounding hills are heavily wooded. The growth here, though tolerably dense, is more shrubby than upon the lower slopes of the mountains. There are already three or four permanent residents in this valley, and the inducements for public settlement can hardly be considered great.