[E. D. Knight, The Lander Wagon Road Expedition, Alta California, June 9, 1860]

 

THE LANDER WAGON ROAD EXPEDITION.

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[LETTER FROM AN OLD CORRESPONDENT.]

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SUMMIT OF THE SIERRA NEVADA,)

June 2, 1860. )

            Eds. Alta,— Knowing, as you do, my roving and restless deposition, you will not be greatly surprised to hear that I have once more turned my back upon the luxuries, and comforts, and excitements of city life, and have pitched my tent in the wilderness, where the snow lies deep, and the tall pines wave in stately grandeur over me. Yes, strange as it may seem, I was growing tired of the monotonous round of daily duties and empty pleasures in the city. I had lived so much upon excitement, that it ceased to rouse my blood ; I was blasι — in short, played out; and you may guess how eagerly I accepted an offer to accompany Col. Lander on the U. S. Pacific Wagon Road Expedition. The Colonel I had met at the Railroad Convention last September, in San Francisco, and beyond that I had no acquaintance with him ; but I was quite taken with his straightforward, manly frankness and energy — and I know of no one whom I should rather have accompanied on an expedition of the kind than he. The remainder of the company, consisting of engineers, officers and men, numbering, in all, fifty men, I was entirely unacquainted with ; but I had been too long in California, and experienced too many ups and downs, to be afraid of strangers, so I did not hesitate, but on twenty-four hours' notice I had purchased and packed my luggage — the whole of which did not weigh over twenty-fire pounds — and had reported myself at head-quarters. The animals, wagons, tents, etc., had all been laid in at Sacramento.

The March Began.

            The company struck their tents at 2 P. M., on Thursday, May 24, and proceeded on the Marysville road to the Twelve Mile House, where they camped for the night. The next morning, at six o'clock, I took the stage from Sacramento, and overhauled the company near the town of Nickolaus, at which place Colonel Lander took the stage, and we rode to Marysville. The company camped that night at the town of Eliza, two and a half miles from Marysville, and early the next morning they entered the city, and received an additional amount of freight, in the shape of shovels, picks, crowbars, etc., and were ready to leave by 8 o'clock, A.M.

            At Marysville I donned my mountain suit, and saddling a gentle roan pony, which had been provided for me, I joined the party. We moved rapidly along, at the rate of thirty miles per day, halted for lunch at noon, at the North Horncut House, and camped at night near a little creek, which crosses the road about five miles from Oroville.

Reception at Oroville.

            Colonel Lander and Mr. Snyder, the Commissary, took the stage from this point to Oroville, where the Colonel was warmly welcomed by the citizens, who remembered his exertions in behalf of the particular wagon route, which, if opened, was to benefit and build up their city, and they desired to express their appreciation of his efforts. At night Mr. Latimer, and other of the leading citizens, complimented the Colonel with a serenade, for which honor be thanked them kindly, but stated that he deemed the occasion unworthy of such an ovation, he was simply journeying through the country, with some fifty men, en route for the field of his labors.

            The company reached Oroville at half past eight o'clock on the morning of the 27th, (Sunday,) and after halting half an hour, proceeded on, camping at noon at Pense's Ranch, and at night at Kunsele's Summit Ranch.

In the Hills.

            We started bright and early on Monday morning, but the road was rough and muddy, and it was eleven o'clock when we reached Dogtown, a thriving little mining town, which is nestled at the foot of the hills and sheltered by tall pines. There are many rich claims within a few miles of the town, and, indeed, the hillsides and gulches gave evidence of having been pretty thoroughly prospected. We made but a few minutes halt in Dogtown, but traveled on, over a rough read, to Lovelock's trading post, where we camped for the night. Several travelers passed our camp during the afternoon, who reported the snow to be from ten to twenty feet deep on the trail, and assured us that we would never be able to proceed with the wagons.

            On Tuesday morning we made an early start, but our progress was slow and difficult, the road being hilly, and in many places miry. We halted at noon, at Hammond's Ranch, and reached the town of Inskip about two o'clock in the afternoon. The town, in appearance, does not differ from the thousand and one little mining villages scattered throughout the length and breadth of California — little wooden houses ; shops, with keen-eyed traders, spying out customers, and intent on driving bargains ; here and there a little groggery, with a half dozen idlers lounging round the door ways. Inskip is the terminus of the stage route of the California Stage Company, in this portion of the State ; the town is supported by the mines in the vicinity, which are said to yield an average of an ounce and a half per day to the man. The water for mining purposes is brought to the town in a ditch, which extends around the hillsides, at a little distance from the road, for miles.

In the Mountains.

            We stopped in Inskip only long enough to make purchase of some hay and grain for our animals, and then moved on, two miles and a half, and camped among the snow, by the side of a little stream, that came tumbling and foaming down the mountain. From this camp the Colonel dispatched a rider in advance to Humbug Valley, twenty-two miles distant, to make preparations for the animals. Early on Wednesday, May 30, we moved on to Chaparral House, a little tavern by the roadside, where the sight of a traveler was cheering to the eyes of "mine host." While camped here, we were visited by two men, who had just arrived from Humbug Valley. They stated that the Indians had attacked the settlements at Honey Lake, and burned several houses. At three o'clock on Thursday morning the camp was aroused, and all hands started. The ascent of Chaparral Hill was tedious and difficult.

Deep Snows and a Runaway.

            In some places the snow was several feet deep ; in others it had thawed, and the ground was wet and miry, but the mules were in good condition, and drew the wagons through thick and thin, without a baulk. The descent of the hill was even more steep than the ascent. The snow had drifted in the trail, and the chaparral and rocks on each side, prevented our driving out of it. There was no alternative but to shovel a road through the snow. A dozen stout, hearty fellows, set themselves to work with a will ; the snow was dashed aside like magic, and the wagons came safely down. One of the lead mules, however, being high-mettled, made a jump, and breaking out of his harness, plunged down the hill, at a speed that would have left "Langford" far in the rear. Three of us started in pursuit. The saddle girth on one of the horses was loose, and worked back until it struck his legs ; he became frightened, and ran, at a breakneck pace, over the chaparral. Poor Walter could not hold him, and in another moment he was thrown over the colt's head, and was floundering among the chaparral. After some trouble I stopped the runaway. Walter came up, his face scratched by the fall, but without heeding his own injuries, he patted the frightened colt and said, "Don't he run splendid ? I like him better than ever." The time and occasion, and the coolness of the remark, made me laugh heartily. After rejoining the train we moved on through a forest of gigantic pines, and at sundown camped near a mountain stream of one of the north forks of the Feather River.

A Dead Halt.

            Colonel Lander rode on to examine the trail, and finding the snow too deep to proceed with the loaded wagons, he gave orders for us to remain in camp, and the next morning Mr. Wrenchall started out with a company of men to shovel the snow from the trail between this and the Cold Spring House. Yesterday they progressed four miles, and to-day they have reached within half a mile of the Cold Spring House. This morning our goods were all packed over to Humbug Valley, and to-morrow we shall probably start with the wagons.

Indian Outrages.

            We learned to-day from a traveler, that the Indians had burned the house of Mr. Thomas Harvey, at the entrance of Honey Lake Valley, on our route — and also that the settlers at Susanville had built a fort to protect themselves from surprise by the hostile Indians who are said to number, some two thousand strong. Col. Lander has sent a messenger to them, stating that if they will inform him, by express, in case of an attack, he will mount his forces and proceed, by rapid marches, to their assistance. The Colonel is an energetic and determined commander, stopped by no obstacle and daunted by no danger. Our party is fifty strong, thirty of whom are well armed with Sharp's rifles and dragoon pistols, and will prove a formidable foe to the savages.

In Camp.

            We have now been in camp two days. It is cold, and has been snowing ; but we have a pleasant party, and manage to amuse ourselves, so that the time passes rapidly. One of the officers is an excellent violinist, several of them good singers, and each endeavors to add to the comfort and pleasure of the rest. You cannot imagine how I enjoy the pure mountain air ; my lungs seem too wretchedly small to take in all I crave of it — and at night, wrapped in my blankets, I smoke my meerschaum, and look up to the quiet stars, and feel that I am nearer to them than ever. You must not think, from the picture I have drawn, that we are sitting idly around the camp fire, all day long — far from it. Each has his special orders every morning. One superintends the workmen who are shoveling out the snow ; another is building a corral ; a third is preparing the pack-train ; a fourth is cleaning and distributing the arms ; a fifth is invoicing the goods and repacking the wagon, and, in short, all are kept busy for hours at a stretch. But then our evenings round the camp fire, with song, and jest, and merriment, go far toward redeeming the fatigues of the day.

            JUNE 3.— A pack-train passed us this evening, and we learned that some four hundred volunteers and two hundred regulars, under Col. Jack Hayes, was preparing to leave Virginia city, to attack the Indians, who had fortified themselves at Pyramid Lake, some two thousand strong. If that is true, we shall certainly have a brush with them in the Honey Lake Valley. My next letter may give you an account of a "brilliant engagement." To-morrow morning we shall strike tents, and move over to Humbug Valley.

KNIGHT.