|
Nevada's Online State News Journal
|
|||||
Nevada History:
[From The Nevada State Historical Society Papers vol. IV 1923-1924, pp. 29-189.] Part 1 THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO IN RELATION TO ITS TOPOGRAPHY
BY ANNIE ESTELLE PROUTY, M. A. [1][29] [30] THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 31 ANALYTICAL OUTLINE OF PAPER. I. Topography of Reno: location on western edge of high plateau area and facing toward California, on banks of the Truckee which marks a pass and makes an oasis; climate; results of topography as affecting overland tourists and prospectors and retarding development. II. The Trail Makers and the Spying out of the Washoe Country in its relation to California: natural westward expansion of American people; chief overland trails to the Pacific as seen in the Santa Fe and other trails to the Southwest, the Oregon Trail, the California trail, 1844; early exploration and travel through Nevada and the discovery of possible variations of the California trail by early travelers like Jedediah Smith, Peter Ogden and Joseph Walker, by John Bidwell and the first emigration across Nevada, by the Stevens-Murphy Party with the first wagons to cross the Summit, by Fremont, by other 1845 parties, by early emigrants of 1846 via the Hastings Cut-off, by the Donner Party, by discovery of the Lassen trail, Beckwourth Pass route and Noble's Pass; rivalry of various sections for control of California trail, with triumph of Truckee route. III. The founding of Stations on the Truckee and the Beginning of Reno: emigration of 1849; belated parties wait in valley of the Truckee ; Jameson's Station on the Truckee, 1852; Stone and Gates' Crossing, 1857; Some other early settlements; Truckee Meadows and Fuller's Crossing, 1859, which becomes Lake's Crossing, 1863, and the beginning of Reno. IV. Discovery of the Comstock and its effect upon Reno: how the Comstock was discovered; California's excitement over the Comstock with consequent back stream to Nevada; Virginia City; growth of industry and means of communication through roads to transport supplies for mines and to ship ores, through stage lines to Placerville and Carson City with growing rivalry between routes, through the transportation of farm produce from Sierra and Honey Lake Valleys by way of Lake's Crossing, of fish from the Truckee, etc., hence growing demand for better means of transportation. V. The Coming of the Railroad and Reno's Opportunity: demands for better mail and express service be- 32 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS cause of inadequacy of ox team, pony express and stage coach routes with consequent discomforts, expense and robberies; agitation for a railroad to the Pacific growing out of suggestions of early nineteenth century with growing sectional differences as to route which prevent action until the Civil War and actual travel decide in favor of a northern route; California takes a hand at railroad building with the Comstock mines as the immediate incentive and Theodore Judah as the inspirer of the Central Pacific builders who construct the Sacramento Valley R. R., plan a road to San Francisco via Benecia, recommend Madeline Pass route, make surveys and recommend the Donner Lake Pass, organize a railroad company in 1861, but meet with many objections to the route selected by Theodore Judah; the building of the railroad in spite of transportation and financial difficulties, being constructed between June 8, 1863 and May 13, 1869 with the first train reaching Nevada in 1867; results for the West; Reno, the point nearest the mines, forms ideal site for a city and the town is surveyed and platted after which lots are auctioned on May 9, 1868, the town is christened and begins its permanent growth. VI. Reno's Varied Character as Resulting from her Topography: junction of railroads and improvement of transportation facilities through building of the V. & T., the N. C. O., and the Western Pacific and through the work of the Interstate Commerce Commission; Reno as a governmental city, fights for the county seat, erects a court house, county hospital, state hospital for mental diseases, and finally becomes an incorporated city; Reno in relation to mining centers profits by early boom on the Comstock, the more recent excitement of 1902, and has a mining prospect at Peavine but must not trust to unstable industry of mining for permanent prosperity; Reno, an agricultural center, early developed hay and produce industry for mines, later benefitted from the Truckee-Carson Irrigation Project and northern agricultural districts as well as Carson Valley and the Truckee Meadows but shares in the natural limitations on Nevada agriculture in spite of which she hopes to profit by Federal Loan Bank system, food shortage and government undertakings in Nevada, beet sugar industry, cattle and sheep industry, wheat growing etc.; Reno in its relation to manufactures has good water power but lacks raw material, fuel, labor and machinery, yet has a man- THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 33 ufacturing district on East Fourth Street with prospects for better manufacturing conditions in Reno; Reno as a mercantile center early distributed goods to Virginia, Carson, Surprise Valley, Susanville and Sierra Valley but became of much greater importance during the southern mining boom and this development was facilitated by parcel post service resulting in a wholesale business in addition to the retail trade and the expansion of the mercantile section from the original area to new streets; Reno the financial and professional center of Nevada has good hotel accommodations : Reno as a home city has expanded from the original site through Dunne's North Addition in 1873, Lake's Addition in 1871, the Ward, or Connor, and the Western in 1876, Hatch and Southeast in 1876, the Marsh in 1877, Hayden and Shoemaker tract in 1878, Sunnyside in 1887, Powning in 1896, Morrill in 1899, St. George in 1901, Anderson, Morrill-Smith, Riverside Heights, Burke's Survey in Ryland Addition and New Southside Addition in 1902, Litch in 1903, McCormick in 1904, Chism in 1904, University and Flanigan in 1905 Kapler in 1906, Leete Syndicate, University Heights, Stoddard, McKenna (or University Terrace) in 1907, S. E. Hatch, Wells, Fairfield Heights, and Villa Court in 1905, the Morton Johnson, Rio Vista Heights, Grimmon and Crampton's Additions in 1906, Sierra Vista, Meadow View, Southern, Martin, Scenic Park, Terrace Tract, Burke, Arlington Heights, Newland's Heights, Market Tract, Cloverdale Heights, Homewood, Steiner Tract and Interurban Heights, 1907 and while these various sections have developed at different rates there is everywhere an increasing tendency to build permanent homes; Reno as a recreational center and health resort; Reno's social development in keeping with her topography and economic progress as seen in development of educational system embracing public schools, kindergarten, University of Nevada, etc., her religious development as seen in church building, her fraternal organizations, etc., her theatres, public library, newspapers, music and art; what of the Future? VII. (Supplemental) The City of Reno, 1917-1924: the transcontinental highway and development of recreational possibilities the two great new lines of progress, yet other phases of growth not to be ignored; some present manufacturing concerns; wholesale and retail business; U. S. Air Mail service; mining prospects of Reno; agricultural development in alfalfa, 34 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS hay, turkeys, cantaloupes and dairying on Truckee-Carson Irrigation Project and in dairying products, potatoes and poultry nearer Reno with the proposed addition of Spanish Springs Reservoir or an alternate storage basin: hotel service; highways locate Reno on Lincoln and Victory routes with branch lines via. Tahoe and Feather River affording attraction for tourists and settlers with consequent social and monetary benefit, also providing recreation for Renoites and beautification of the banks of the Truckee with promised water sports on the river; parks forecast need for future playgrounds as seen in the Wingfield, Whitaker, Newlands, Idlewild (with zoo and prospective auditorium), golf links, Moana and Agricultural Park; paved streets; extension of boundaries; the zoning ordinance; educational development as expressed in the Nevada State Historical Society, Junior High School, increased school enrollment, new buildings at University of Nevada, Business College; church growth evidenced by prospective new structures for M. E. and Episcopal churches, origin of the Federated Church, new congregations in Church of Latter Day Saints and the Jewish Synagogue, the work of the Salvation Army, Y. W. C. A., Red Cross Hut and Crittenden Home Service Club movement in Rotary, Lions, Kiwanis and Exchange for men, in Business and Professional Club for women; other Women's Clubs: the Latimer Art Club; divorce colony; crime record low. CHAPTER I. THE TOPOGRAPHY OF RENO: HOW RELATED TO ITS DEVELOPMENT. Reno on Western Edge of Plateau and Facing California. Far over at the western edge of the so called Great American Desert there is a little stream which rushes along for a considerable distance only to lose itself eventually in the desert. Since this stream has its source in the heart of the Sierras, it marks a natural pass across the great divide and into the Promised Land of California. Therefore, in the days of '49 the emigrant re- THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 35 joiced to see the Truckee River because it meant he was on the last lap of his journey. Importance of Rivers as Highways. Rivers have always been the great highways. In olden times the Nile was the medium of communication in Egypt and in Europe the Danube and the Rhine answered a like purpose. Civilization was built upon their banks because they were means of travel and communication as well as of irrigation and manufacture. In America the Mississippi and its tributaries as highways have been a great factor in the development of the Middle West. The Truckee Not Navigable But Useful In Pointing the Way and In Making Oases. But in Nevada the rivers do not find their destination in the ocean. One old prospector explained their disappearance in the desert sand as follows : "The Almighty hadn't finished his work on Saturday night and just tucked the lower ends of the several streams into the ground whar they have remained to this day although He had intended to make one boss river for Nevada to reach the ocean." [2] But though Nevada's streams, including the Truckee, are not navigable, in early days they served to direct the route of travel to the Golden State by the slender thread of green along their banks. Sometimes the thread became wider. The valley became a green plain and one of these oases was the destined site of Reno.Origin of Cities. In a study of American cities their location and purpose is the better understood through a knowledge of their origin. The earliest cities were garrisons for protection. These were of 36 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS necessity on points accessible by water, either coast towns or heads of harbors where rivers emptied. [3] They became places of barter and also points of transhipment for smaller communities farther up the rivers served by smaller boats. These distributed to inland river settlements and these in turn were also points of exchange for the backlying country. Cities, also, grew up at the lowest falls or rapids of a river, because water power was the only means of operating power machinery. This was the origin of Minneapolis. Some cities owe their origin almost entirely to the coming of the railroad as Denver and Salt Lake which towns are not on navigable rivers.[4] They would not have become great or even second class cities had not the railroad brought them into being.Reno, an Oasis in the Desert and a Railroad Station. Reno has had its destiny shaped for it. It is situated on a river not navigable but invaluable as an oasis after the weary miles over a desert which men now call not a curse but a breathing space from the crowded places of our East and West. In early days Reno heard the echo of groans and curses and men shook the dust from their clothing as they and their weary beasts rested on the banks of the Truckee. Then when refreshed, they followed the river to its upper courses over the Pass and the Summit where one delay might mean terror in the snow blockaded Pass. Yet Reno was only a stage station, where the river could be easily forded, until the long-heralded Pacific Railway placed a city on the banks of the Truckee. THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 37 Moisture, Altitude and Latitude. The mountains to the west of Reno with their eternal snow suggest moisture but have in fact made Nevada the state of least rainfall and consequently have caused the dearth of navigable rivers although these mountains do form the watershed of the rivers of the western part of the State. Reno's altitude is four thousand, five hundred and seven feet which for many reasons makes a healthful climate. Its latitude is thirty-nine degrees which would ordinarily mean a country in which could be raised all necessary articles for consumption in the surrounding territory, but here the great barriers shut off the moisture and cause aridity of the soil with a rainfall of only eight to nine inches. [5]Results of Location. Natural conditions have thus brought about Reno's characteristic development. Between the mountains and the desert, and with the Eldorado beckoning him on, the traveler never tarried long here in his rush to California. A writer in the Humboldt Register expressed it as follows : "Well, roll along, Mr. Immigrant, any fool can get to California but it takes a smart man to get away .from there." [6] But advancing civilization found the black speckled rock and with the treasure of that find forged the bands of steel across the once dreaded territory. Then Nevada became accessible to the once discouraged and departing emigrant, and because of his California experience he was better able to use and overcome Nature as he found it here. But even now and perhaps forever natural conditions prescribe and to some extent retard the course of Reno's progress.38 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS CHAPTER II. TRAIL MAKERS AND THE SPYING OUT OF THE WASHOE COUNTRY IN ITS RELATION TO CALIFORNIA. Natural Westward Expansion of American People. The Americans are an expansive people ever moving west. Three factors have made expansion possible. They are abundant free land, foreign immigration and the building of the Railroad. [7] The first factor has been of greatest influence. From the time that America was a narrow seaboard strip in 1793 until it stretched from ocean to ocean the dream of the ambitious young man was to go west to take up a homestead. Because of the dangers he had to meet only the brave and bold became the frontiersman. He made and determined questions by going in and taking up the land. Thus the frontier has been constantly moved westward until the Pacific Coast was the final stretch.Types of Trail Makers: The Trader and Trapper. Before the homesteader went the Indian trader and trapper who did the actual work of exploration. He was usually nameless but blazed the trail for the homesteader and the miner and later for civilization. To set his traps for beaver he opened up a whole river system. He would hunt the deer in the higher parts of the valley, pushing farther on all the time to new hunting grounds. The Indian trader went from one camp to another but always a narrow line of travel was his course. [8]Santa Fe and the Trails to Southwest. In the early days before 1810 St. Louis was THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 39 MAP OF TRANS-ROCKY TRAILS (Copyright, 1895 by Alexis E. Frye.) From Frye's Geographies, by permission of Ginn & Co., Philadelphia. 40 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS the last outfitting station for Indian trade to the west. Then the point was moved to the Missouri River to Independence and later to Kansas City. [9] Old Santa Fe was just beyond the eastern rim of the Rockies opposite a natural gateway in the Rockies. Here was the shortest distance from St. Louis to the Rockies and the rivers were open earlier in the year than were the rivers of the north. Hence Santa Fe became a center of transcontinental expansion. An added reason for its marking the first trail to the Pacific is the fact that it is closely approached by the Gila and Colorado rivers which unite at the south-eastern corner of California.[10] Naturally the trader pushed on to California. The roads were well beaten to these watersheds of south-eastern California. The first trail into California became known as the Spanish or Los Angeles Trail and was opened up by Wm. Wolfskill of Kentucky and his party in 1830. He went to trap in California. His route was over the Wasatch Mountains, then to Sevier River, over the mountain rim and southwest down to the Virgin River but turned off before reaching the Colorado. Then his trail led across the Mohave Desert and reached Cajon Pass in the San Bernardino Range, thence to Los Angeles.[11] Travel soon found a shorter route by the Gila Trail. The shortest route across the continent is from St. Louis to San Diego. A southeast bend of California coast causes San Diego to be five degrees longitude farther east than San Francisco. After the cession of territory by Mexico to the United States in 1848, the first government survey for a railroad followed the Gila River.[12] From the Rio Grande in southwest Mexico to the source of the Gila is fifty eight miles over the Mimbres Moun-THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 41 tains. This road branched off from the Rio Grande main thorofare at about thirty-three degrees, twenty-one minutes north latitude near the present village of Paloma, then followed a direct west course to San Diego. Disadvantages of Southern Trails. These two trails then were natural routes to California but never became avenues of heavy immigration although they were means of steady intercourse for the trader and trapper even before 1819. [13] But these classes are nomadic and bring no permanent settlers. The mountains were barriers and the desert of the south was scorching. There were stretches of from forty to sixty miles which had no water. The trail was marked by the bones of the beasts that had been unable to bear the heat and thirst.The Oregon Trail. From St. Louis also the trader and the trapper started for the northern trails. Later the last outfitting station was moved as before mentioned to Kansas City. The trapper might not be able to use the rivers of the north so long in the year but he found the beaver and the richer fur-bearing animals along their banks as both Great Britain and the United States well knew. As the actual settlers came into the Mississippi Valley and later to the Missouri the trapper kept pushing farther up to the headwaters of the Missouri to find new hunting grounds. It was the natural course to follow one of the three long arms of the great river of the North and finally reach the Pacific by following down the Columbia to its mouth. [14] This latter point was discovered in 1792 and Lewis and Clarke saw it in 1805. The Astor42 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS party saw it in 1811. [15] Earlier parties went farther to the north but the Astor party, organized for trapping and hunting, took the course which later became the Oregon Trail. They went up the Missouri to the Grand. Then they took a short cut across the plains to the Big Horn Branch of the Yellowstone. From there they went up Wind River to Great Dome of the Shoshone Range, thence to a head stream of the Snake and thence to the Columbia. But returning a year or two later they struck southeast from the Upper Snake and reached Green River Basin. Then they took a course to reach the Sweet Water, the North Platte and on to St. Louis.[16]Advantages and Disadvantages of This Trail. This trail soon became a wide highway. It could be distinguished for miles by the trail of dust following the settlers to fertile valleys of the North. The discovery of South Pass made the way of the emigrant much easier. The ascent was gradual and a grassy road lead up to the high Pass. Worn out caravans could rest and recruit up here in Bear River's fertile meadows. [17] While California was still a foreign possession the United States claimed Oregon but California early became the goal of the settler. From the southern point of the Willamette Valley the trapper and then the settler spread over into California.[18] It was a narrow steep trail, rough, rocky and impassible for any sort of vehicle during a portion of the year. It was later widened into a toll road but was always dangerous.[19]THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 43 Search For a Better Route. Thus for a number of years California was freely entered at the northern and southern extremities by natural avenues of travel. But the southern trail was marked by the mountains and the desert. The northern trail was dangerous and could not be used for a long portion of the year. Also the best lands had been taken up in Oregon. It seemed as though a more direct route across the United States could be found but fearful stories were told of the desert places for many miles without water and of the high mountains. Discovery of California Trail, 1844. Finally in 1844 the Truckee Pass in the Sierras was discovered and the California Trail went by the easiest natural way to California. [20] This route was much more direct and alleviated the worst hardships of the immigrant by cutting off the long detours formerly made to the north and to the south. It branched off from the Oregon Trail and Snake River about one hundred miles below Fort Hall and turned southwest up Goose Creek, the southern tributary of the Snake, over to the head waters of the Humboldt. Later on it left the Oregon Trail at Bear River. From Humboldt Sink the road lead directly west to the Truckee up to Truckee Pass after passing Donner Lake, then down the west slope by the American River and Bear River of California to Sutter's Fort on the Sacramento.Early Travelers in Nevada: Jedediah Smith, 1827. Bands of trappers had previously entered Nevada at various times. Of some of these the names will never be known for they left no record but simply made the trail for those who were to follow and to tell the story and reap the glory. 44 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS The first white man, it is thought, to see Nevada in the 19th century was Jedediah Smith. [21] He was the traditional bad boy who ran away from home to go west to seek his fortune. He wove a trail of fate after him until killed by an Indian arrow on the Santa Fe Trail in 1831. His first expedition was in 1824 when he went with five trappers to the Snake River on the Oregon Trail. Then he returned. But the next year he went over the same trail and entered California in 1826. The latter part of that year with a party of forty men he went from Salt Lake to Los Angeles by the Spanish Trail. The next year he won the honor of being the first white man to have ever crossed Nevada, for in 1827 with two companions he came back over the mountains in eight days after a terrible journey, and then to the river now known as the Humboldt but which he named Mary's River after his Indian wife.[22] He reached Salt Lake in twenty days. Thus Nevada was first crossed from west to east.[23]Peter Ogden, 1831. In 1831 Peter Ogden for the Hudson Bay Co. went over the route previously traversed by Smith and laid claim for his company to all the territory between the Rockies and the Sierras. [24]Jos. Walker, 1834. In 1833 a detachment from an army of trappers known as the Bonneville party crossed Nevada. [25] Ashley of this party discovered Great Salt Lake in 1834 and trading posts were established both there and on Utah Lake. Jos. Walker,THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 45 trapper and explorer, was sent with the detachment to make explorations west of Great Salt Lake. After a few days he came to the Humboldt Sink and crossed the Sierras by way of Carson and Walker Lakes and Walker River over to the headwaters of the Merced and thence into San Joaquin Valley, finally reaching Monterey. [26]John Bidwell, 1841 and the First Emigration Across Nevada. In 1841 the great wave of interest in California began to break over the United States. This was due to letters and papers sent to the East by the few Americans then living in California. [27] Many people started by water and a few braver ones dared to attack the long journey overland in cumbersome but strong ox carts. One young man who was stirred by the stories of California was John Bidwell, a young Missouri school teacher. He determined to go west. At the age of twenty he started but only got as far as Platte's Reserve. But in 1841 he gathered a party of 69 persons including women and children for the overland journey to California.[28] A man named Bartleson was made captain but he knew little more then the rest of the party about the ways of camp life and the Indians. The party was fortunate in falling in with a band of Catholic missionaries who had an old mountaineer named Fitzpatrick as guide. He taught them many things they sorely needed to know. At South Pass the missionaries went on their way to Oregon and the emigrants proceeded to Salt Lake, the road becoming more difficult each day.46 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS They finally abandoned their wagons for pack animals and thus reached the Humboldt and then went on up the mountains by way of Walker River, crossing the ridge near Sonora Pass at an altitude of ten thousand, one hundred and fifteen feet. Their suffering from cold and hunger was terrible. They finally reached the Stanislaus and then the San Joaquin. They deserved the honor of being the first party of emigrants to cross Nevada into California. [29]Stevens-Murphy Party and the First Wagons Across the Summit. The first party of emigrants who succeeded in taking wagons over the summit are of peculiar interest in the history of Reno as they were also the first to go by way of the Truckee River and Bear River to California. It was the Stevens-Murphy party and comprised over fifty men besides women and children. [30] The party started from Council Bluffs May 20, 1844. They went by the usual route to Fort Hall. Then half of them went to Oregon and the rest under Walker and Bartleson went down the Humboldt to the Sink. This was in October and the snow was flying before they resumed their journey. In November after nearly a month's travel they camped at Donner Lake.[31] They reached Sutter's Fort, December 15, 1844.[32]THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 47 JOHN BIDWELL, WHO LED THE FIRST PARTY OF EMIGRANTS ACROSS NEVADA INTO CALIFORNIA. (Copyright, 1910. Printed by permission of Little, Brown & Co.) 48 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS Fremont and His Search for the San Buenaventura River. But in connection with the California trail there is one man who sums up the whole phrase, Pathfinder. John C. Fremont was that man. [33] Fremont made six trips to the West for the United States government. Two of these, the second and third, were important for Nevada. The first one was in 1842 over the Oregon Trail and only as far as South Pass. He explored the country about Great Salt Lake.[34] The second trip was in 1843. As captain of the topographical engineers he was to explore the immense territory extending from the Missouri to the Pacific Ocean.[35] He followed the Oregon Trail to Fort Vancouver on the Columbia, then returned to the east and southeast to explore the Great Basin and to ascertain what truth there might be in the story of a San Buenaventura River flowing from the Great Basin into San Francisco Bay.[36]THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 49 For this river he searched in vain in the then Mexican territory, now Nevada. On January 10, 1844 he reached and named Pyramid Lake. [37] He tried to persuade the Indians to guide him over the mountains but they only laughed and shook their heads at each other even as their descendants have a way of doing now. However they drew maps on the ground for the visitors, and then served a feast of salmon trout.[38] Fremont discovered the Truckee River and named it the Salmon Trout because of the fish abounding in its waters. He followed it for one day to the bend where Wadsworth is now located and then finding that the Truckee had no outlet to the sea he continued south in his search for the San Buenaventura. When he came to the Carson he found that it joined the open valley of another river to the east, namely the Humboldt.[39] Next he ascended far up the east branch of the Walker River. He was here forced to abandon the small cannon he had brought out from St. Louis and also to abandon his search for the San Buenaventura.[40] After a great struggle and unspeakable hardships he succeeded in crossing the mountains. He saw Tahoe on February 14th.[41] Two days later he discovered a creek whose waters flowed toward the Pacific. On March 8th, after sixteen days of tiresome journey from the Sum-50 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS mit to Sacramento he reached Sutter's Fort. [42] From there he went south to Los Angeles and turning east by the southern trail reached Kansas City on July 31st.Fremont at the Truckee Pass. Fremont's third expedition to the West was never officially chronicled but it was in some respects the most romantic of all and produced more results than any of the others. He started with a large corp of officers and soldiers and took a brass cannon. Mexico was suspicious of him and the United States government attempted to recall him as he had been accused of stirring up trouble on his other trips to California. But his wife did not read the dispatch but rather told him to get out of civilization as fast as possible and he obeyed. Starting from Independence, Missouri, he went to Burt's Fort and from there up the Arkansas to its source and then northwest to Great Salt Lake. On October 2, 1845, the party, including Kit Carson and Jos. Walker, left the Lake and soon entered Nevada at Pilot Peak. They then divided into sections for wider exploration. Fremont with fifteen men, including Kit Carson, went south through an unexplored region, the territory now included in Elko, Eureka, Nye and Esmeralda counties and reached Walker Lake on the twenty-third of November. The other party under Walker went from the Sink to Walker Lake. The two sections met at the designated place and were there together for two days. Then they again went their separate ways having agreed to meet west of the Sierras at the fork of the main river into Tulare Lake. [43] The main party under Walker continued onTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 51 through the pass named for him and reached Owen's River in California. Fremont with a selected party of fifteen went north, determined to get through to Sutter's Fort before snowfall. There they expected to obtain supplies for the main party. The hardships of the previous trip had made the region over which he now traveled very familiar to Fremont. By December 1st he reached the Salmon Trout River [44] and on the evening of the 4th he camped at its head on the east side of the pass into the Sierras.[45] But he pressed on as rapidly as possible because fearful of a snowstorm that did not come. He descended by a more southerly route down a fork of the Bear River into the Sacramento Valley and to Sutter's Fort.[46] Rejoicing in the grand vegetation of California, he and his men proceeded south to meet Walker's party and later joined in the Bear Flag Revolt and cooperated with Commodore Stockton in the conquest of California.[47] This third expedition is of peculiar interest in the history of Reno because Fremont passed up the Truckee and thru' the pass over the route later taken by the Central Pacific Railroad.[48] He52 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS helped to confirm the popular impression that the Truckee Pass was the most feasible one and when agitation for a railroad began he was thus instrumental in ushering in the great enterprise which made a city of Reno. [49]Other 1845 Parties. In the same year, 1845, the Swasey Todd Co. crossed by the Truckee route. They had no regular captain and twelve or thirteen young men with pack animals went on in advance of the main party. [50] The third company of this year left Fort Hall on August 13th under McDougal and crossed by the same route without mishap, reaching New Helvetia late in September.[51] The Grigsby-Ide Co. also crossed the plains with teams and wagons but on the Humboldt lost the wagons by a fire which destroyed everything.[52]The Early Emigrants of 1846 and the Hastings Cut-Off. In the spring of 1846 a large party, consisting of emigrants carried by twenty-eight ox teams, started from Missouri for the Pacific Coast. They came by way of the Humboldt and up the Truckee. They passed Donner Lake and reached California in October of that year. Their captain was Major Stephen Cooper, a former associate of Daniel Boone and a companion of Fremont on his second trip. [53] The year 1846 saw many more immigrant parties on their way to California than had previous years. One emigrant, Edwin Bryant, stated that he counted on June 15, 1846, four hundred and seventy vehicles and that halfTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 53 of these were going to California and the others to Oregon. He estimated that three thousand emigrants were on the way. [54] Traveling by the usual course he arrived at Fort Bridger on July 15th. There C. W. Hastings and Mr. Hudspeth of California were awaiting emigrants in order to pilot them by a new route which they had just surveyed, a route which is now known as Hasting's Cut-Off. On the 20th of July Bryant and nine companions were the first to pass over the new trail. They reached California in safety.[55] Forty wagon loads of emigrants followed and later in the summer many others also passed without mishaps.Donner Party. But at the last of the season came a party that was to suffer so severely for taking the shorter route that the trail was temporarily abandoned. This was the Donner Party and in these two words, "Donner Party" are epitomized all the hardships and suffering of overland travel. In May of 1846 a party of ninety persons with nearly three hundred wagons left Missouri for the Pacific Coast. [56] They made the distance safely to Fort Bridger.[57] Edwin Bryant had left letters advising them to go with their wagons by the old route and a portion of the party followed his advice and kept on the longer but safer road and reached their destination without mishap. Those who took Hastings Cut-Off along the shore of the Lake found not even a trail to guide them. Misfortune followed them from the time they54 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS separated from the main party and most of them perished after terrible sufferings. The two fatal mistakes were the taking of the Hastings Cut-Off which meant thirty days instead of the seven counted upon to reach the Lake and the delay at the present site of Reno altho' the season was already late and the snow clouds were hovering. [58] But their cattle were worn out at the Humboldt and the Indians had taken twenty-eight during that part of the journey as well as having killed two men. The rest of the party was starving.[59] The Truckee Meadows was a green inviting spot and hence four days were spent here. The snow came a month earlier than usual and when the Summit was reached the snow covered the ground to the depth of from two to five feet. The storm was raging and when they tried to go on the animals were literally buried in the snow. The party was therefore forced to remain. A cabin was built and the Schallenburger cabin of 1844-5 was also occupied.[60] Four relief parties in all were sent to the Donner Party from Sutter's Fort.[61] The last reached the lake on March 17th but found only one living person. Some had gone already with the previous relief expeditions but out of the whole party only forty-eight persons survived.[62] The sufferings were horrible and indescribable. Some of the survivors suffered fromTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 55 NORTHERN TRAILS ACROSS NEVADA 56 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS the consequences for the remainder of their lives. Many versions of the Donner Party experience were circulated, some of them more or less false, with the result that the whole route was for a time discredited. New Routes Sought: The Lassen Trail. Naturally therefore, other trails across northern Nevada were sought and routes previously known to traders and prospectors were once more used. The first emigrant party to cross by the extreme northern part of the state was that of Peter Lassen with a train of twelve wagons. This was in the spring of 1848.[63] Following the old emigrant road to the Big Bend on the Humboldt, he there turned into the Applegate Road leading to southern Oregon. This trail had been made by Applegate & Co. in order to have a shorter route to the Cascade Mountains and also to the emigrant road from Oregon to California. It followed down the east side of Goose Lake, crossed west and then turned northwest. Lassen continued on this road until he reached the lower end of Goose Lake. Then he turned directly west. The Donner Party experience was almost repeated. The party were snowed in on the headwaters of Feather River without provisions when help finally came on the first of November. They were all rescued but lost many wagons and animals. After this the road was called the Death Route or Lassen's Horn Route, meaning that it was as much of a cut-off as going around Cape Horn would have been.[64] Yet many went over this route in 1849, some because of fear of the forty mile desert between Humboldt Sink and Rag-town on the Carson. But on this newer road there was little more water and poor feed. Besides THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 57 there were deep canyons and the mountain passes were always steep. The Pitt River Indians were always troublesome. After 1850 there was scarcely any emigrant travel over this road. Beckwourth Pass Route. In 1851 Jas. P. Beckwourth, a trapper, discovered the pass which bears his name. That fall he conducted a party of seventeen wagons from the Truckee over his Pass to American Valley and then to Marysville.[65] Noble's Pass. In 1851 also a party of prospectors crossed Indian Valley and passed over the mountains to Honey Lake by way of a new pass later called Noble's Pass. [66] Thus by 1851 all the available passes had been located and the only question that remained was to determine which would become the main highway.Rivalry of Various Sections for Control of Calif. Trail: Intrigues of Noble. One man who had crossed Indian Valley in 1851 had recognized the value of the pass discovered by his party. This man was Noble. He went to Shasta, the principal town in the northern part of California, and told of the merits of the pass, with such effect that some enterprising business men hired him and a small party to go out to Humboldt River and divert travel to Shasta. The latter place, it was claimed, was only three hundred miles from the Humboldt and the greatest distance between watering places was twenty-five miles. Besides, according to their story, grass was abundant along the road especially in fertile Honey Lake Valley. But they had hard work to persuade travel to leave the 58 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS main traveled roads. Threats were made by returning Californians to do them bodily injury if they did not cease their efforts to persuade travelers to take the Noble Road. [67] One small train did go over it and reached Sacramento in safety. The next year the road was improved and the greater part of the immigration to northern California then went over it. During the year 1857 the Noble Road was a favorite one. That year a wagon road was constructed from Oroville to Honey Lake Valley and the first stage coach came into that Valley.[68]Methods of Diverting Travel. But there continued to be great rivalry between the stations along the different routes to California. The chief method of diverting travel to their own roads was by discrediting all rival ones. At Lassen's Meadows on the Humboldt, emigrants were warned not to go through Honey Lake Valley to California as they were likely to be robbed or killed or at least have their horses stolen. [69]The Truckee Route Wins From All Others. There were about a half dozen routes across Nevada and the Sierras. But the Sonora and Walker River routes were never popular and were abandoned as they were too dangerous. Lassen's Road from Humboldt to Lassen's Meadows and to Sacramento by Feather River was three hundred miles longer than the Truckee. [70] Noble's Road was longer than the Truckee but had easier ascents and descents and good pasturage. It was a good road and was thronged with wagons.[71] But the two most popular wereTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 59 the two middle routes : first, the Carson to the American River, and second, the Truckee route which later was the most practicable even though the highest. [72]CHAPTER III. THE FOUNDING OF STATIONS ON THE TRUCKEE AND THE BEGINNING OF RENO. The Emigration of 1849. Few realized the commercial value of the victory won from Mexico when California was proclaimed American territory in July, 1846. It had been the goal of emigrants for some years, yet there were only about half a dozen American stores in San Francisco. But when the rumor was noised abroad that gold had been discovered by James Marshall in the mill race at Coloma in January, 1848, then the world's attention was brought to California. If facilities for travel had been as they are today the rush to California would have been a year earlier. [73] The 49'ers would have been 48'ers. But in '49 the trails to California were fairly lined with seekers after gold. Our Truckee Meadows and the adjoining canyons if they could speak could tell many stories of the travel of those days. The old rough roads are still to be seen in places and no modern steel axles could long survive them. The wooden axles were more elastic and when broken could be replaced from trees along the route.Belated Parties Wait in Valley of Truckee. Emigrants often followed the Truckee and crossed it at several points. They stopped along its banks to feed their starved animals. After the Donner Party's mistakes emigrants feared 60 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS the mountains and for ten years after 1846 every winter found belated parties waiting on the Truckee Meadows for spring to open the mountain passes. The rank grass grew well and the horses fattened on it waiting until they could begin their long hard pull in the spring. [74]Jameson's Station on the Truckee, 1852. The majority of emigrants still went by the Carson River Route but many followed the Truckee from the lower crossing, now Wadsworth, on up the stream and over the mountains by Donner Lake. [75] For several years the only settlement on the Truckee was that of Jameson. He was a Mormon who came from Carson Valley in 1852 and established a station where Glendale is now. He kept provisions and here the weary pilgrims rested themselves and their beasts and bought provisions before going on. He also traded with emigrants, buying their exhausted stock or trading it for good cattle. Then he would fatten the exhausted stock to trade again.[76]Stone and Gates' Crossing, 1857. In 1857 John F. Stone and Chas. C. Gates established a post on the Truckee which became known by their name and later was called Glendale. Nine other men followed them, settling on ranches in the valley. [77] In 1863 Mr. Peleg Brown, one of these men, introduced alfalfa. It was raised so successfully that ever since it has been cultivated profitably. This same man brought in some good stock. There was already much broken down stock. This was the beginning of stock raising in this valley.THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 61 M. C. LAKE, WHO BOUGHT "THE LITTLE INN, THE TOLL BRIDGE, AND THE LAND WHERE THE HEART OF RENO NOW IS" AND CALLED IT LAKE'S CRSSING 62 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS Some Other Early Settlements. Other settlements following this were Huffakers, Lake's Crossing, Hunter's Crossing and Crystal Peak. The last named was very prosperous. The farmers brought in their products, and saw mills flourished before Reno was a station. [78]Truckee Meadows and Fuller's Crossing, 1859. An old pioneer preacher described his first sight of the Truckee Meadows as follows : "The overland road crossed the Truckee thirteen times after leaving the present town of Wadsworth. It was in '53 and there were fifty of us with a large train of cattle and horses. On the last day of August we camped on Truckee Meadows letting our horses graze on the thousands of acres before us and all around us ; not an inhabitant in that vast field of blue joint." [79] In 1859 a settlement was made where Reno now stands.[80] It was on the south side of the Truckee on the site of the present Riverside Hotel. A man from Susanville by the name of C. W. Fuller took up this land and put up some small buildings. He also built a ferry boat for the river. He later constructed a low bridge which had to be fastened down during high water. Still the river could be forded at this point as it was shallow. The old ford ran diagonally from the point where the old gas works were, now the site of the Rialto Theatre, to the present library. Mr. Fuller was very poor and it was said that the first winter he spent at the crossing he wore a blanket tied around his waist as he had sold his only suit of clothes for seed corn.[81]THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 63 THE OLD RIVERSIDE AND THE IRON BRIDGE OF 1872. 64 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS It was a good location and as travel increased his little inn began to be a welcome sight to travelers. It was only a dugout and shack a little north of where the Riverside now is but travelers did not expect elegance or comfort in those days. The bridge was the important feature to the traveler. It was built in 1860. It was made of logs and heavy timber about six or eight feet lower then the present bridge. [82] In 1862 it was washed away but was soon rebuilt.Becomes Lake's Crossing, 1863. It seemed as though Mr. Fuller was fleeing from prosperity when in 1863 he sold the property to M. C. Lake, a rancher from Honey Lake Valley. The little inn, the toll bridge, and the land where the heart of Reno now is were included. [83] The crossing then became known as Lake's Crossing and was very popular. The two corner stones of the future metropolis were the bridge and the tavern. The little tavern in the midst of sagebrush with great boulders strewn around it had many guests. Ranchers came for their mail from over the valley and as it was a long journey to Virginia, Mr. Lake kept a small store where they could get some supplies. The original tavern burned in 1869 but Mr. Lake rebuilt it and opened a very commodious hotel known as The Lake House on New Years Day, 1870. Under the later name of "The Riverside" it remained a landmark in the city until the Riverside Hotel was entirely finished in 1906.[84] Mr. Lake built a wooden bridge and charged toll. This bridge was washed out in the winter of 1863. He then built a much stronger bridge which lasted until 1867 when the high waterTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 65 66 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS washed it out again. He rebuilt the bridge but in 1871 his charter for the privilege of charging toll terminated and the county wished to make it a free bridge. The toll was from one dollar to one dollar and fifty cents for every head of cattle and the ranchers sent great droves of cattle across the bridge and road to Virginia. Because of the splendid revenue received from it Mr. Lake objected to the county's taking it. He dug a trench around the bridge and stationed a man with a gun to guard it. But after a lawsuit the bridge reverted to the county, which in 1872 constructed the iron bridge which now spans the river from north to south on Rock Street. [85] When the iron bridge was torn down some of the old logs in Fuller's bridge were found. Upon these logs all the later bridges had rested. The present beautiful bridge of concrete was built in 1905.CHAPTER IV. DISCOVERY OF THE COMSTOCK AND ITS EFFECT UPON RENO. Discovery of the Comstock. Nevada came near to having a '49 excitement for gold was discovered in the summer of that year by a party of emigrants at the mouth of a canyon, now known as Gold Canyon, near Dayton. The men found that they could wash out from ten to fifteen dollars gold a day which was equal to California wages. So they remained in the canyon, [86] but it was not until 1859 that the ledgeTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 67 68 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS was discovered which made Nevada famous. By that year there were one thousand people in Western Utah [87] which was known first as Wasseau and later as Washoe.[88]California's Excitement Over the Comstock and the Back Stream to Nevada. California had always hitherto been the goal for goldseekers and was subject to spells of gold excitement. When in 1860 the cry came from over the Sierras that gold was discovered in Washoe, immediately a shout was set up "Hurrah for Washoe! silver in Washoe! ledges ten thousand feet deep, a solid mass of silver!" All San Francisco was aroused. The seasoned miner and the tenderfoot alike set out for Washoe. They needed only a pack mule, a pick, a shovel, a hammer and a frying pan. [89] Thus the great backward rush from California began as miners and others from Grass Valley as well as from Nevada City rushed to the new discovery, made claims, and purchased other claims. San Francisco heard the news and soon sent prospectors traveling all over Nevada searching for claims and spending large amounts of money.[90]Virginia City. Virginia City was laid out and named for its unlucky discoverer. The uninhabited barren mountain side became a living city with thousands of inhabitants. [91] Its streets were paved with rock from the mines. Everything was mines. EnginesTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 69 pumped night and day. Drays loaded with bullion passed others on the street laden with ore and underneath the city in the mines was a third of the population which soon grew to twenty thousand. In time the excavations were as large as the city above. This underground city was lighted with candles night and day. It gave to the world between the years of 1862 and 1866 sixty-three million dollars. Growth of Industry and Means of Communication: Roads to Transport Supplies for the Mines; Shipment of Ores. Before the discovery of the Comstock, in all the territory there were only three saw mills, two flour mills, and a half dozen blacksmith shops. The rivers were fordable and so bridges had not been made even to build a road to California. But in '59 and '60 California very vigorously started to build roads to the rich mines. [92] San Francisco wanted the trade of Washoe and subscribed liberally to the projects. The narrow roads along which only pack mules could carry freight became broad toll roads along which trains of heavy wagons hauled all supplies; groceries, hardware, household goods, and machinery for the mines from the foundries of San Francisco were sent over the mountains. The wagons were often drawn by twelve large mules. The teams went stringing along for miles. At the beginning the ores could not be worked on the Pacific Coast as the mills did not have the proper equipment. Consequently, the ore was Naked in sacks on donkeys' backs and transported to San Francisco and from there shipped to reduction works in New Jersey or Swansea,70 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS Wales. [93] The long trains of donkeys were a daily sight on the highway.[94]Stage Lines. To take care of the immense amount of hauling, daily stages came and went from Virginia to California and all parts of the territory. There was no city in the United States which had so many lines radiating from it. From Carson to Virginia there were the McCue line which came over the mountains by way of Placerville, the Sam Russell & Co. Dayton line which connected with all the territory, and The Pioneer Stage Co. started in 1857 and passing through Placerville connected with Sacramento. It carried Wells Fargo express and mail. The Placerville Road was graded but was very dangerous. Then there were the toll roads of the Geiger Grade on the north and the Virginia and Gold Hill Tunnel Co. on the south. [95] A route used and indeed very popular was by Henness Pass and Weber Lake or by Donner Lake, both leading down the banks of the Truckee to one of the several crossings and thence to Virginia over the Geiger Grade.[96] The California Stage Line took this route, running daily to Marysville, Grass Valley and Auburn and making daily connection at Sacramento with steamers for San Francisco. Even during the heavy snow of the winter they were said to make regular time.[97] The Pacific Co. was another line running through Truckee Meadows over the same route. Other lines might be mentioned on both routes as there were many more.Rivalry of Stage Lines. As might be expected there was great rivalry THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 71 between the competing roads to Virginia. The Placerville and Carson people told of the advantages of their route and the disadvantages of the Truckee and Henness Pass routes. [98] The newspapers of the two places were loyal boosters for their own communities. It may be truthfully said that the Truckee routes were well patronized by California.Farm Produce From Sierra Valley and Honey Lake Valley Goes to Virginia By Way of Lake's Crossing. Lying east of the Sierras were two rich valleys which sent a great deal of farm produce to Nevada, especially to Virginia. Besides great droves of cattle, the ranchers brought in hay which sold at thirty dollars a ton. G. W. Mapes states that he has brought many loads of hay from Sierra Valley to Virginia over the bridge at Lake's Crossing when there was no Reno. [99] From Honey Lake Valley flour was sent to Virginia selling at twenty-eight dollars for a hundred pound sack and potatoes sold for twelve cents a pound. An old resident of Honey Lake Valley states, "There was a demand for almost everything—even jackrabbits—and the prices would satisfy almost anyone.[100] The toll bridge at Lake's crossing became a very profitable source of income as there was now constant travel between Virginia and California. Also the valleys about the Truckee began to fill up with ranchers who could market their produce in Virginia. The Truckee, Lake Tahoe and the Carson supplied fish to Virginia but even at her best Nevada could not furnish all the necessities for the booming city. The people demanded many things which, because of the great cost of transportation and72 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS difficulty of hauling, came to be counted as luxuries. Also because of the constant delay and great cost of transportation the people suffered many inconveniences and the mines were retarded by the lack of machinery which could not be transported over the mountains. If only there were a railroad, the mines and mills would treble was the growing thought of the people of Virginia. [101] In California men interested in the Comstock began to demand a more rapid means of communication and lent their aid to others who were agitating for the same thing.CHAPTER V. THE COMING OF THE RAILROAD AND RENO'S OPPORTUNITY. Demand for Better Mail Service. But the demand for railroad transportation at this time was far more than a local matter. Mail and express facilities between the East and California had long been a problem. There had been regular mail across Nevada since 1851, first by pack mule and covered wagon as far as Salt Lake, [102] then by pony express and finally by the overland stage coach which seemed like a great luxury after the slow and tedious journey by ox team. The Pony Express was started in 1859. By it mail and express were brought from San Francisco to Sacramento by steamer, then a man on a horse started on the long ride over the mountains. The first rider was Harry Rolf who went via Placerville, Carson Route, riding a wild mustang pony.[103] From Carson Valley, carried on a fresh mount, the rider went over the SimpsonTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 73 route to Salt Lake City. From Placerville to St. Joseph the distance was covered in eight days. A letter of one sheet was carried for five dollars. [104] In 1861 the overland mail stage route was completed which also ran from Sacramento via Placerville into Carson Valley, thence to Dayton, Ragtown and across the desert to Humboldt River to what is now Stone House Station where it left the river and took the Hastings Cut-Off to Salt Lake City.[105] Not until May 20, 1865 did the Donner Lake Route also have the postal service when Congress established the additional route via Crystal Peak, Donner Lake and Summit to Dutch Flat, thence to Sacramento.[106] The telegraph line was kept in connection with the Placerville stage route until the Central Pacific R. R. was completed September 22, 1861.[107]Difficulties of Stage Transportation: Discomforts and Expense; Robberies. Although the overland stage seemed at first to travelers next door to flying yet there were many discomforts connected with it as well as great expense. Firms who operated lines found the work extremely expensive and many of them failed. Besides there was always danger of robberies. The stages to and from Virginia carried great amounts of treasure. The story is told of one driver commonly called Big George who often boasted that he had never been robbed. Once after boasting thus he started from Virginia over the Dutch Flat Road but when near Marysville the bold robber easily relieved him of five hundred dollars. [108] There were many such incidents and the teamsters acquired the habit of express-74 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS ing money over the mountains or else took checks to cash in San Francisco. A stage robbery which probably had an influence in awakening the government to a sense of immediate need of a transcontinental railroad occurred just above Placerville. The stage was bound for Virginia and the robbers when caught claimed to be commissioned officers of the Confederate Army. They were therefore prisoners of war and not outlaws. But they were found guilty of robbery and one was executed. [109]Conception of the Idea of an Overland Railroad. The idea that the West should be connected with the East was not suddenly conceived. In the Knickerbocker Magazine about 1834, Lewis G. Clark predicted that there would eventually be a road to connect the Oregon country with the East. [110] Even before this in 1819 Rott Mills had submitted to Congress an interesting suggestion.[111] He proposed that Charleston, South Carolina be connected with the Pacific Ocean by a system of canals and natural waterways up the Mississippi to the Missouri and to the Columbia. In 1830, with the introduction of railway building in America, plans for a transcontinental railroad were promulgated. As is usual with all new ideas, the scheme was considered ridiculous. Hall J. Kelley's agitation for a railroad was considered as visionary as would be the building of a railroad to the moon. General Leavenworth of the U. S. Army saw, from the soldier's viewpoint, the need for a railroad for the purpose of defence and forwarded a paper to Congress in 1831 recommending a railroad to the Pacific.[112] In 1836,THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 75 a civil engineer, John Plumbe, who was a Welshman by birth but American by education called at Dubuque, Iowa, the first public meeting on the subject of a railroad to the Pacific. The dream was reduced to practical terms by Asa Whitney, a New York merchant, in a memorial to Congress in 1845. In order to control the trade of the Indians he proposed to finance a railroad out of land sales and petitioned congress for a grant thirty miles wide along the entire route. [113] Emigrants were to be settled on it and thus pay for the construction of the road. He lectured from Mississippi to Oregon and wrote for the newspapers in order to make the demand real. He was too far ahead of his times. The railroad was to be owned by the government and the scheme looked too glaringly speculative for the government to assume the burden. Consequently, it found few advocates.Sectional Differences as to Routes: Calhoun and Jeff. Davis. Webster believed in the railroad. Benton and Fremont said it was a necessity. Congress debated the subject but sectional differences prevented action. The south-eastern tier of states, which controlled the policies of the country, was interested in a highway through the southern states to California. After 1853 Jeff Davis was Secretary of War and he pushed surveys to the West in 1854. Calhoun, the previous Secretary of War, had left the north entirely out of consideration in the railroad project. The Gadsen Purchase was made in 1853 because the survey for a railroad included this little strip. 76 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS Stephen A. Douglas and the Kansas-Nebraska Bill; Cheap Land Decides That Emigration Shall Go to Northwest. Stephen A. Douglas gave the north a fighting chance in his famous Kansas-Nebraska Bill in which some saw only the slavery issue, yet the route of the Pacific R. R. was finally decided by the political and financial ambitions of this man. He was a resident of Chicago, which was a growing town and just beginning to show its later tendencies. He was intensely interested in real estate and believed he could make a fortune if the railroad would make Chicago a terminal. On the other hand St. Louis in common with every other town on the Mississippi hoped to become a terminal. He was intensely interested in the Democratic party and southern Illinois was the center of strong democracy and his political fortune depended on keeping its favor. He championed the middle course. Kansas became slave and Nebraska free. One railroad would do from the Pacific to Kansas. There it must divide into two branches, one to Chicago and the other to St. Louis. Emigrants from Illinois and Indiana and eastward could push on through Nebraska and free territory to the West. Land was cheap in the North but few emigrants could go into slave territory as only rich men could own large plantations and the southern democrats wished to annex lands for large plantations for slave labor. [114] Thus the emigration from the old homes to new ones in the West made bonds which needed to be cemented by bands of steel and the emigrant longed to see the old home once again without the dangers of the long sea voyage or the weary and often dangerous overland journey.THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 77 Engineers Favor Southern Route: Beckwith's Four Possible Routes. By order of the War Department, Stansbury in 1849 surveyed for possible routes for a railroad. Next Lieutenant Gunnison in 1853 and Lieutenant Beckwith in 1854 continued the surveys. They all agreed that the southern route was the best to cross the Rockies. They thought the central route was impracticable because it was beyond the skill of railroad engineers to overcome the grades and besides the snows were too heavy in the Wasatch and the Sierras. [115] Of these surveys Lieutenant Beckwith's was the most complete. One hundred and fifty thousand dollars was appropriated in March, 1853 and on February 25, 1855, he gave a detailed report to the War Department. The next year he was sent out with more money and had three surveying parties in the field. In all ten routes were surveyed but in his opinion only four were possible routes. His report included physiography, climate, soil, resources, cost of construction and other facts that might have a bearing on railroad building or development of resources along the railroad route. The first route thought possible was situated between the forty-seventh and forty-ninth parallels. It was to cross the Rocky Mountains at the sources of the Missouri and Columbia and follow their valleys. The favorable features were the low profile and easier ascents, consequently smaller cost of construction. This route was at least one thousand four hundred and fifty feet lower than the other routes. The serious objections to the route were its proximity to a foreign power and the severely cold climate. Another route favored by Lieutenant Beckwith was along the thirty-eighth and thirty-ninth parallels from78 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS St. Louis to San Francisco. This was a shorter one and the estimated cost of construction was about the same as for the northern project. But there was more timber and water along the way. Yet this was not an entirely practicable road for there were more ascents and descents and the maximum crest was 10,000 feet. A road along the thirty-fifth parallel was favorably reported because of the interlocking tributaries of the Mississippi, Rio Grande, and the Colorado which meant timber and other resources, but here there were even more ascents and descents than on the forty-first parallel road. The most favored route was the one along the thirty-second parallel for the elevation was low and the mountain passes over a tableland easy. Besides it was the shortest line to the Pacific covering only sixteen hundred miles from the navigable waters of the Mississippi. The climate was temperate and altogether it seemed to Beckwith the most economic and otherwise practicable route. The only objection he found was that there was no fuel along the road. Beckwith's Objections to the Humboldt Route. Beckwith did not favor the central route along the forty-first to forty-second parallels and via the Humboldt. The objections were that there was little timber, the springs dried up in summer and little good soil or grazing land was to be found. For a railroad at least thirty miles would have to be piled on the deserts of mud, clay, alkali and salt. Beckwith considered the Noble Pass the best crossing in the Sierras as it avoided the principal range and its altitude was only five thousand six hundred and sixty-seven feet with a slope of seventy-five feet per mile over a plain to the Sacramento. But the Noble Pass was reached only by a long detour from the California THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 79 Trail and the cost of construction would be much greater in a country with no resources of its own. [116]Early Opinions Favoring the Humboldt. However in 1860 the War Department proposed a military road across the continent along the line of Beckwith's survey of the Humboldt route, terminating though in Long Valley. [117] In the next year one of Beckwith's aides, Brevet Lieut. Col. Steptoe made a survey and decided on the Carson River road as the most direct one. The entire distance he said could be made by wagon with plenty of water and grass and with a good crossing at the pass at the head of the river.Rivalry of Towns on the Pacific and Insistence of California on a Railroad. The discovery of gold in California had made the railroad a necessity but even within California itself rivalry existed for of the four chief towns on the Pacific, each one hoped to acquire the terminal. As the belief obtained that only one railroad across the continent would pay, if indeed even one could be properly financed, it was clear that only one of the four towns could win its point. [118] California became very restive while Congress was considering first one route and then another. It urged that some action be taken but could make little impression, being three thousand miles away by sea and five thousand by land with a journey of from three weeks to three months intervening.80 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS Actual Travel and the Civil War Decide In Favor of Northern Route. Meanwhile prairie schooners had determined the shortest route by a well defined trail from Westport to Salt Lake and then from South Pass by the Truckee to Sacramento. Fremont also had said that it was the shortest. Travel naturally followed the line of least resistance. [119] When the Civil War began it put an end to argument. Secession made a northern route the only possible one. The dangerous position of the Pacific states was now clearly seen. They were three thousand miles from the home government with only a few scattered posts along the route overland and were practically cut off in the event of a war with a foreign power.[120] The idea was current that California and Oregon were destined by geographical conditions to form independent republics. The rumor that California was tired of waiting for overland communication and that she proposed erecting an independent republic was circulated. Then the report that the Confederacy had invaded New Mexico and intended to push on to California induced Congress to lend government aid to the Union Pacific as a war measure.[121] Doubtless the Union owed its preservation in 1860 to the land grants made by the government to the railroad. For to tie the northwest up to the northeast by bands of steel meant an increase of trade, travel, and communication and a general tying of the Pacific coast to the government.California Takes a Hand at Railroad Building and the Comstock Is the Immediate Incentive. While Congress was coming to these decisions THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 81 THEODORE JUDAH, WHO "DID MORE THAN ANY OTHER MAN FOR THE BUILDING OF THE RAILROAD." (Copyright 1910. Printed By permission of Little, Brown & Co.) 82 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS a few determined old timers in California, whose imaginations had been fired by the wealth of the Comstock, decided to find a better means of communication with that place. [122] A railroad from Sacramento to the Nevada state line would bring them within easy reach of the mines and could also connect with any line coming later from the East. Their efforts and agitation in Congress were the immediate means of bringing a transcontinental railroad into being.Thus Nevada with her mines not only furnished her great wealth in the Civil War to carry on the conflict and keep the credit of the United States abroad but was the direct cause of uniting the East and West when the union was torn by sectional strife. Nevada was not "the promised land" but it proved the truth of what President Lincoln once said, "It may be the Treasury of the Nation." [123]Theodore Judah Constructs Sacramento Valley Railroad. The history of the origin of the California railroad may be summed up in the story of one man, Theodore Judah. As a youth he came to California in 1854 with Pacific railroad on the brain. He had been educated at the Troy Engineering School and had done practical work in railroad building in the East. He came to California to build the Sacramento Valley railroad bringing with him twelve engineers of his own selection. He made surveys and built in two years the first railroad in California. It ran from Sacramento to Folsom. He then went east to get financial aid to build a railroad to San Francisco by way of Benicia. Meanwhile he was spending time, THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 83 money, and energy to enthuse people on the subject of an overland railroad. He prepared a pamphlet concerning routes over the mountains and published it at his own expense. Not even sleeping cars and restaurants were omitted in the details. [124] He spent his winters in Washington and waited for four sessions of Congress. He was modest but a rare talker and untiring. He could make even those Congressmen believe that the engine could surmount the very heights of the Sierras. He had a room with maps and plans where he unceasingly labored for his project. A convention was held in San Francisco in 1859. He reported it in full to Congress. When the Washoe excitement broke out he found more ready listeners.Recommends Madeline Pass. He had surveyed the passes and had decided in favor of Madeline Pass although the route was longer but the pass was lower and less likely to be shut up by winter snow. Now his main object was to demonstrate a practical route to cross the Sierras by the most direct route between Sacramento and Virginia. Even then two hundred loaded teams of six and eight mules went by Placerville daily and more then half that number by Henness Pass. It was estimated that the traffic would yield the railroad fifty millions a year and would alone justify construction. The Surveys of 1860. Anticipating more favor for his scheme by the change to republication administration, he surveyed again in 1860 for a shorter route. He believed the snow danger was exaggerated and preferred taking chances of winter obstruction to losing a share of the profitable business which 84 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS would pay the expenses of further extension to Salt Lake. He surveyed three routes—one through Eldorado County via Georgetown, another via Nevada City and Henness Pass and still another by the Donner Lake Pass and Dutch Flat. Recommends the Donner Lake Pass. The last survey extended one hundred twenty-eight miles east of Sacramento and down five miles of the Truckee. Within this distance all difficulties were said to be overcome and from here easy grades were to be found as far as Salt Lake. Besides the Donner Lake Pass Route crossed California at nearly the narrowest part. He could thus shorten the route by one hundred and eighty-four miles and save thirteen million dollars. The elevation of the Pass is seven thousand and twenty-four feet and with a base of seventy miles could be overcome with a maximum grade of one hundred and five feet in a mile. The west flanks of the Sierras being at right angles to the northwest and southeast trend of the chain of mountains, the ridge could be ascended from the base to the summit in the general direction of the streams. [125]Organization of a Railroad Company, 1861. In the spring of 1861 through Judah's efforts a company was organized at Sacramento. They had little money but a great amount of brains. The directors were Governor Leland Stanford, C. P. Huntington, T. D. Judah, Chas. Crocker, L. A. Booth, Jas. Bailey, D. W. Strong and Chas. Marsh. All but the last two were from Sacramento and these were from San Francisco which was rather cold toward the project. Messrs. Huntington and Hopkins were hardware merchants in Sacramento at that time and Hunting- THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 85 ton was therefore deeply interested. Organized with Governor Stanford as president they sent Judah east by steamer to Washington to obtain government aid as the enterprise could only be carried out by means of such aid. The new Congressman, Aaron A. Sargent, from California gave him excellent help. He was the first republican Congressman and was very energetic. He was determined to be on the committee on the railroad and succeeded. He would not talk slavery but only railroad. He very forcibly told of the danger to our country of foreign interference. England wanted California as a prize and there was danger in delay. The railroad was a military and postal necessity. Then he laid stress on the great commerce between our country and the Orient. [126] He got control of the committee and wrote the bill which was passed and approved by President Lincoln July 1, 1862 authorizing the building of the road by land giants to the railroad and bond subsidies.Estimate of the Influence of Judah on the Builders of the Railroad. In the history of this grand enterprise the ability and tireless energy of Theo. Judah has been forgotten but he did more than any other man for the building of the railroad. He was willing to do the hard work as well. In the preliminary work, he and his wife were with the laborers. He directed and tended to many details while his wife caught fish and cooked them for the men. They took pictures of Donner Lake which were engraved on the original stock and certificates of the C. P. R. R. But he did not live to see his work completed for while going east to sell franchises for the road he contracted typhus fever on the Isthmus of Panama and died when he 86 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS reached New York in November, 1863 at the age of thirty-seven years. [127]Objections to the Route Selected by Judah. Naturally not all the cities which had hoped to have the railroad pass through their midst were satisfied with the decision as to the route. Seattle was left in the shade because San Francisco was the lucky city. The inland towns of Nevada were loud in their condemnation of the route. Senator Stewart in a speech at Gold Hill deprecated the policy of the newspapers of Carson and other places in trying to condemn the Donner Lake route. It would have, he said, a tendency to retard the only railroad in prospect of entering the state. For instance, it was claimed that the southern or Butterfield route had advantages which none of the other routes could compete with. [128] Carson, inasmuch as she was a source of supply not only to Virginia but also to all the neighboring towns, thought the railroad should pass through her city. One firm there had freight bills of one thousand dollars a day. The counties of Douglas, Ormsby, and Placer were the most determined that the Placerville Route should be used.[129] Their prediction was that the new railroad would be buried in fifteen feet of snow in the winter and impassible for months at a time. Then the stages to Placerville would have to be used as the only resource left. Besides there was already a line begun from Sacramento to Placerville which lacked only eight miles of completion. If the Central Pacific should prove to be a failure then capital would see the superiority of the Placerville Route and invest in the railroad to secure its extension into Nevada.THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 87 There was a plan to finish it to Austin by way of Virginia. The cost was estimated at eight million, seven hundred and twenty-six thousand, five hundred and sixty-eight dollars, and the cost of the Central Pacific to Reno was estimated at thirteen million, six hundred and forty-nine thousand dollars. [130] The survey was made. On December 24, 1864 Wm. Cutter introduced a resolution before Congress that since the Central Pacific Railroad had only built thirty miles of railroad that the railroad from Freeport on the Sacramento to the town of Latrobe, only thirty-eight miles from Carson, be given aid to finish into Nevada and a company was formed to complete the work.[131]Nevada Constitutional Convention Refuses to Help Road. Unsuccessful efforts had been made in the Nevada Constitutional Convention of 1864 to offer three million dollars in bonds to any railroad connecting Nevada with navigable water east and west. Then Governor Stanford appeared and asked that no other road be considered but that a donation be given to his road. This also was voted down. But a resolution was sent to Congress urging the passage of a law by Congress fixing the sum of ten million dollars in bonds to the corporation first completing a line of railroad with no break between Sacramento and the eastern slope of the Sierras. The only result was to hurry the Central Pacific road building. [132] The counties of Storey and Washoe favored the Donner Lake route and the first legislature of the State was unanimous in granting the right of way to the Central Pacific Company. Thus Placerville88 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS had to settle down in solitude with only the stage line to break the monotony. Fort Reading Wants the Railroad. The surveys by the government led the people of northern California to believe the railroad would go by Fort Reading. They maintained that their route was the shortest one to San Francisco. [133]Smoke Creek Aspires to Terminal. Smoke Creek station endeavored to induce the directors to take the Lassen Road as the most central route with Smoke Creek as the terminus. [134]Susanville Wants Fredonyer Pass Used. The Susanville Sagebrush when commenting on a survey for a road in competition with the Central Pacific, urged Fredonyer's Pass as the shortest and best route whereas the prospective competitive road really would run from Oroville to Virginia by Beckworth Pass. [135] Fredonyer's Pass was four thousand, one hundred and fifty feet by easy grade and was comparatively exempt from snow and had plenty of timber. A railroad could cross the Sierras at an altitude of three thousand feet lower than Donner Lake. The mining camps of California would be tapped by such a road and as it was thirty miles nearer to Virginia City it could haul ores from Virginia and bring timber and lumber to Virginia. The builders of the road did not expect state aid but that of capitalists who would see the advantages of competition with the Central Pacific by lower freight rates. It would have the monopoly in winter as the Central Pacific would be unable to run on account of snow. Grading was to commenceTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 89 the eighth of June, 1868. [136] But the Central Pacific bought out the franchise and for many years had no competition in California or Nevada. Susanville sank back and had to give up its dreams of becoming a great city when the Central Pacific Railroad completed its track to Big Bend on the Humboldt. The government refused to renew the mail contract and all freight and travel thenceforth went over the railroad.[137]The Building of the Railroad: Some Difficulties Encountered. But there were numerous delays in the building of the Central Pacific after the route was finally fixed. There were many reasons for these delays. Difficulty in transportation was a serious obstacle in building and finances were always exhausted. The East was disturbed by war and could not invest. California was comparatively free from this expense and was willing and anxious to aid. The constitution of the State, however, forbade the creation of debt except for war purposes. Then the supreme court decided that the railroad building was a war measure and the State could grant three million dollars subsidy to the railroad as they wished to make a railroad to the State line to connect with another which in time would come from the east. Beginning of Construction, 1863. Then on the eighth of June, 1863, the ceremony of breaking the earth took place at Sacramento. It was the beginning of the construction of the Pacific Railroad and this first section was to be the most difficult part of the entire length. Some persons laughed when Governor Stanford shoveled sand from a wagon at the foot of K 90 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS Street into a mud hole where grading was to begin on the first link of the transcontinental railroad, and said it would be only a small stretch from Sacramento to Dutch Flat in comparison with the long toll road to Virginia. And their predictions seemed to be realized for up to '67 the road was built only a short distance. Then the actual work of building over the mountains was commenced. Financing the Undertaking. For the construction of the road the merchants in San Francisco subscribed one million dollars for stock, the city gave four hundred thousand dollars, Sacramento three hundred thousand, Placer County two hundred and fifty thousand, and the State five million five hundred thousand dollars. The Railroad Company asked the legislature to authorize San Francisco, Sacramento and Placer County to issue bonds. The mountain towns along the route subscribed liberally and helped with labor also. The State supplied the Chinese labor under wage contract. [138] The general government gave for each twenty miles of railroad built eight hundred thousand dollars in bonds, two hundred and fifty-six thousand acres of land worth at least one dollar an acre making in all one million, fifty-six thousand dollars for each twenty miles built or fifty-two thousand, eight hundred dollars a mile in addition to the sum contributed by the State.[139] The bill passed by Congress granted bond subsidies of three classes at the rate of sixteen, thirty-two and forty-eight thousand dollars a mile. These bonds were a lien on the road and fixtures and were eventually payable to the government.[140] An amend-THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 91 ment allowed the company to issue mortgage bonds of the same amount, these having priority over government bonds. The land grants were alternate sections of public lands twenty miles wide. The Federal government was obliged to aid again by allowing second mortgage bonds to the company, sixty-five million dollars more to be guaranteed by the government. It was necessary to give such inducement for construction of a railroad. It was a national necessity over the wild unpeopled region which did not produce enough to pay cost of construction. The cost of hauling water was a large item alone. Extension of C. P. Franchise to Meet the U. P.; Comparative Difficulties of the Two Roads. In 1862 Congress extended the right to build eastward to join the Union Pacific which was coming from the east and also built by government subsidies and grants of alternate sections of land. The Union Pacific did not start to build, however, until after the war when men were ready to invest. Their part of the road was much easier to construct than was the Central Pacific road and much cheaper also. Besides they could obtain all their iron by railroad while the Central Pacific had to order all material from the Atlantic side to be shipped nineteen thousand miles around Cape Horn exposed to the dangers of rebel cruisers and after its receipt was required to transport it one hundred twenty-four miles into the interior. [141] The old miners predicted all sorts of troubles but the work went on. An old English miner said, "Give a company of Americans a right of way, a subsidy and blast me if they won't run a tunnel through the earth and build a railroad to China yer know."92 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS Rapid Building in 1867. Travelers today have no conception of the magnitude of the work over which they ride. Earth was the exception ; here was a culvert and there a bridge. The powder bill for July, 1867 was fifty-four thousand dollars for blasting alone. The times of firing were limited to thrice a day along the cliff. Men were let down by ropes along the cliffs to set the powder. [142]In the spring of 1867 work on both parts of the line increased and by December the summit had been crossed and the lower Truckee reached. Then the winter storms set in but work was stopped for only a week on account of snow. By January 1, 1868, the Central Pacific had worked across the Sierras leaving still one thousand and fifty miles between the two roads. The first locomotive ran from California into Nevada on December 13, 1867 but there was still a gap in the mountains to be completed later. [143] The first train came only as far as Crystal Peak near the present town of Verdi. For little towns had sprung up along the route and those already in existence bristled with new life. Soon on the banks of the Truckee twenty-five sawmills were operating and from seven hundred to one thousand cars were on the track with materials. The docks at San Francisco were crowded also with supplies for the new road. On May 4, 1868 the track and telegraph were completed to Reno.[144] And on the 19th of June the last rail was laid between Sacramento and Reno.[145] When Wadsworth was reached it was made the base of supplies and henceforth the construction men called going to the HumboldtTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 93 "going to the front." [146] Whatever was not on the track was on wagon or mule back or afoot. Even towns were toted along and were discarded as old or worn out in a quarter of a year.[147]The work progressed rapidly across Nevada. The Central Pacific wished to reach Salt Lake before the Union Pacific did. Every available man was working for the railroad. The fifteen mile canyon at Palisade was graded in six weeks. For the last day's work sixteen miles were completed in the one day. For the laying of the last rail at Promontory Point two lengths of rail were brought up. The Union Pacific rails were laid by European laborers. The Central Pacific rails were laid by Mongolian laborers. The foremen in both cases were Americans. Then a gold spike was driven to complete the laying of the track for the Pacific Railway. Results for the West. And so on the 13th of May, 1869 the West was linked to the East, marking the disappearance of the frontier and signifying "no more buffalo for the Indian". The effects were immediately seen. The West now indeed formed part of the nation. Social conditions were adjusted. The people here felt more at home. Plans were made for great business enterprises. Reno, the Point Nearest the Mines. As soon as each new terminus was reached in the building of the railroad, stages at once con- 94 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS nected it with Virginia and all points in Nevada. When the track reached Cisco two trains were run daily from Sacramento. California wished to have not only Nevada trade but Utah trade as well and even that of Idaho and Montana. The argument was that freight would be cheaper, hence for all these places tea, sugar, and other Indian products would be cheaper as they came direct from the Orient. From California wool, grain and fruit would be cheaper and better than from the East. Paper mills would be erected on the Truckee and the paper could be sold even in Montana. [148] The people of Nevada were just as enthusiastic over the prospective benefits of the railroad. Humboldt County, for instance, was a rich mining region. The many kinds of minerals to be found there would make fortunes for their owners through easy communication with San Francisco. Its farming interests and stock would be known to the world. Since the Comstock mines were the goal of travel to Nevada it was clear that a junction must be made at a place nearest the mines. Lake's Crossing was only seventeen miles from them, located just north of the mountain group in which the riches lay buried. The land around the Crossing was an ideal location for a city altho' to the east was a swamp which would require much expense to fill. Thus far there had been north of the river only one ranch house with waving fields around it which seemed to extend even to the foothills. Mrs. Thompson, step-daughter of Mr. Lake, remembers the cabin of Horace Countryman where he lived with his family and brother for a time. She remembers playing with their children and that they had a parrot. The house is still standing but has been remodeled. It is on the backTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 95 96 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS of the lot but was formerly on the front of the lot at Sierra Street. [149] There were no other inhabitants north of the river when rumors of the railroad first were heard. But as the news spread, shacks were put up in a hurry and many tents, also. Mrs. Stith who came in 1863 and lived on the Wellman ranch says : "There was great excitement in town. It was like a mining camp. We just abandoned the ranch and put up a little cabin in town near the present railroad track. Then my husband built houses for people."[150]Mr. Lake's Offer to the R. R. Co. and the Agreement of March, 1868. Mr. M. C. Lake had one hundred and thirty-seven acres across the river from the Lake House. He had taken it up before the county had surveyed it. Later the county surveyor found that instead of the two hundred three and one half acres which Mr. Lake claimed, his patent allowed him only one hundred and sixty acres including the river. [151] A railroad would increase the value of those acres across the river. A great city was heralded to connect with the mines. He would deed eighty acres of his land on the north side of the river in consideration that a station be established upon it.[152] If the offer were accepted he was to receive every alternate lot as the town lots were laid out. The offer was accepted and in March, 1868, the sale of the south half of the north-east quarter of Section Eleven, TownshipTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 97 98 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS Nineteen North, Range Nineteen East, Meridian M. was recorded. Chas. Crocker signed for the railroad officials as though he were buying the land for himself. [153]The Town Surveyed and Platted. The Central Pacific Co. then surveyed and platted the tract. The original map of Reno was filed by D. H. Haskell, agent for the railroad on August 1, 1868. The map is of vellum and very old and worn. Mr. Boyd covered the back with canvas except where the acknowledgement is written and pasted thin paper over this so that the writing may be read in a strong light. The depot, or passenger house, as it is written on the map, is located as now. The blocks are lettered from "A" to "Y". The Plaza with the rest of the city in an inheritance from the old California customs. Spanish towns were built in this way. On this map the city included and was bounded between West Street on the west, Truckee River on the south, East Street on the east, and irregularly on the north partly by Fifth and partly by Fourth. [154]Auction of Lots, 1868. A public auction of lots in the new city of Reno was advertised in the state papers for May 9, 1868 by the railroad agent, C. P. Haskell. The nearby towns were almost depopulated. People slept in the sagebrush and great amounts were offered for even a single blanket. Food was scarce and the only thing plentiful was whiskey. Two hundred lots were sold the first day. Conditions of sale were ten per cent down and the balance in ten days. Along the railroad and Virginia Street, lots were sold first. The lot THE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 99 where the Elite Saloon [155] now stands on the east corner of Commercial Row and Virginia Street was the first lot sold, bringing six hundred dollars. Many old settlers still living bought their lots that day. Mr. Leete said his lot which he bought at the auction was the only lot purchased so far out, the town lying principally between the track and the river. Where the Grand Central Hotel is now there was a hay barn. When Judge Webster built his house on the west corner of Fourth and Center Streets it was out in the country. Manning and Duck put up a store of rough boards and batons on Commercial Row. They were not so optimistic as some and said that they would not run a delivery wagon ; anyone who would do so was a fool. But one month after the auction sale they were compelled by their increased trade to put on a wagon. The Carson Daily Appeal three days after the sale reads as follows : "Reno has just sprung up full feathered and lively. Carson must make the best of its natural advantages and not let the new city on the Truckee run away with the capital one of these days."Naming the Town: "End of Track" becomes "Reno." Because for a while the railroad extended only to Lake's Crossing, railroad men called the station "The End of Track." [156] There were some who wished to name it Argenta.[157] The Gold Hill Daily News called it that and was loath to change the name. "But Reno is more easily written and theRailroad officials had sense enough to omit city, term which was usually a burlesque," was the final comment of that paper. Mr. Crocker filed his map with the name Reno on it. Rumor 100 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS has it that Reno was the lucky name drawn when the railroad officials shook the box containing names for cities. However that may be, Reno is named in honor of General Jesse Reno, [158] a Virginia loyalist who fell in the battle of South Mountain.Continued Growth of Reno. The town continued to grow. In two weeks one hundred houses were built and in two years the population had increased to one thousand people. The first child born in Reno was to be given a prize of fifty acres. Many Carson people moved to the new town and to one of the families from there, J. A. Carnahan, a nine-pound daughter was born. But rumor has it that she never received the prize. [159] The first large locomotive was brought over on ox sleds from Chico to Truckee during the winter of '68 and from there transported into Reno on flat cars. When the track was finally completed without a break a crowd gathered to see the first train from Sacramento arrive in Reno, June 18, 1868. Every day there was excitement when the train came in. Three fast passenger and freight stage lines bound for Carson and Virginia connected with the railroad.[160] The two rival express companies to Virginia staged a race between their fast pony lines every day also. They were the Wells Fargo Co. and the Pacific Union. Between four and five o'clock an immense crowd would gather. The distance was twenty-two miles and when the cars came both riders were ready. Fifteen changes of horses were made on the way. Wells Fargo seemed to hold the record making the distance in one hourTHE DEVELOPMENT OF RENO 101 and one minute beating the other rider by six minutes only on July 3, 1868. [161]A correspondent to the San Francisco Times wrote describing Reno as he saw it in August, 1868. Reno is a mushroom town which sprang up in a single night but is, in the language of its inhabitants, "quite a place." It lacks age and stability but has great vitality. Mixed stages of civilization from the Paiute squaws with their juvenile encumbrances packed neatly in small packages on their broad backs to the gambler and rough element and the most refined mingle on the street. There is no such thing as rest in Reno. People rush into Reno. The tavern keepers are bent on business, provide no rest and Reno cares nothing. All day the hammer and saw and all night the fiddles scrape and the glasses clink. No one cares. Busy Reno is on the map, on the railroad and has a big thing. She is bent on making her pile with what speed she can command." [162]Dreams of the Future. When the new city was built, great were the dreams of its builders. The railroad advertisement in the newspapers fired the interest in buying lots in the new city. In the Gold Hill Daily News of May 4, 1868, we read, "It will be headquarters for transportation of goods of all kinds from east to west to supply the mines and mills. It will also be the point where large freight engines will be repaired. The railroad will spend a million dollars annually there. It will be the supply point for immense mills for manufacturing on the Truckee run by water power. Timber is adjacent for sawmills on the Truckee. It is the natural market for all the region around 102 NEVADA STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PAPERS Truckee Meadows, Peavine, and Long Valley, and the productive country contiguous." [1] This thesis was written at the University of Nevada in partial satisfaction of the requirement for the Master's Degree, 1917. [2] Dan De Quills, Big Bonanza, 19. [3] Wright, The American City, 5. [4] Wright, The American City, 4. [5] Mr. Alciatore of the U. S. Weather Bureau, Reno, Nev. [6] Humboldt Register, Unionville, Nev. Ter., July 16, 1864. [7] Semple, American History and its Geographic Conditions, 310. [8] Semple, American History and its Geographic Conditions, 191. [9] Semple, 185. [10] Semple, 191. [11] The trail was shortened somewhat by later travelers. [12] Semple, 194. [13] Semple, 198. [14] Semple, 202. [15] American History, 201. [16] American History, 204. [17] American History, 211. [18] Semple, 218. [19] Only this year (1917) the countries of Southern Oregon and Northern California have finished building the Siskiyou Highway. It is a magnificent boulevard with concrete bridges. Tourists may roll along in luxurious automobiles as they view the American Alps and little realize the dangers and hardships of those who blazed the trail. [20] Semple, 218. [21] Father Garces of the Order of St. Francis was the first European to enter Nevada. In 1775 he came from Sonora with a party and stopped, at the junction of the Colorado and Gila rivers to explore for a mission site. This left no perceptible effect on American expansion. Bancroft, Nevada, 27. [22] Thompson and West, Nevada, 20. [23] Bancroft, Cal. [24] Thompson and West, Nev., 20. [25] Bancroft, Cal., III, 389. [26] It has been said that Jos. Meek of this party afterwards stated that the route was by way of Pyramid Lake across the mountains by nearly the line of the railroad of today. But Walker's statement was that which is cited above. Thompson and West, Nev., 22; Bancroft, Nev., 44. [27] Norton, Henry K., Story of Calif., 160. [28] Norton, Henry K., Story of Calif., 167. [29] Semple, E., Amer. Hist. and Geog. Cond., 217. [30] Bancroft, Cal., XXV, 445. [31] Their records were lost and several differing accounts have been given. Mrs. Montgomery of the party says in the San Fran. Call of Sept. 13, 1864, that they passed up the Truckee which was named by Dr. Townsend the Stevens River. They left Donner Lake in the middle of November. [32] One young man, Moses Schallenberger, states in the Overland that wagons had to be left in the Sierras until Spring and as he was sick two companions were to stay with him until relief could come. In two days they built a cabin and the rest of the party moved on leaving a few provisions and a half starved cow for support. The men were to hunt for game for part of their subsistence. But the snow was ten to fifteen feet deep and the men became frightened. They started west and reached the summit in one day but Schallenburger took severe cramps. He begged the men to go on saying that he would stay in the cabin until relief came. They complied and he with fierce determination to live was soon able to get up. Provisions got very low but he found some steel traps in the goods stored in the cabin and maintained himself till spring by catching foxes. On March 1, 1845 he arrived at Sutter's Fort after three months in the snow-blocked Pass. Bancroft, Cal., IV, 455; Angel, Nev. 25. [33] His was a romantic life in many ways. He was once candidate for president of the United States, but he illustrates the words: "We build on other's successes." He could write reports of his explorations which were of great value to the government and gave him great popularity and also excited the curiosity of the people about the far West. Kit Carson, his general guide, hunter and all around man represents hundreds of nameless heroes who could not write. But Fremont generously gave Carson much credit for his labors. [34] Bancroft, Calif., XXV, 434. [35] The party left Mo. with 39 men including two Indians and Kit Carson joined them in the Rockies. They were all armed and had a brass cannon which came near causing trouble later on. They left Kansas City on May 29, 1843. The party was divided, one half with the supplies and carts and the other half with pack horses and the howitzer. In this way they explored in wide detours, always meeting at designated places. They reached the Columbia and were at the Dalles on Nov. 4. Then they went in canoes to Fort Vancouver, the headquarters of the Hudson Bay Co. Smith, Hist. of Fremont's Second Explor. Trip in Nev., in Hist. Soc. Bien. Report, 1909-10, 106. [36] There were many myths concerning this region. Fremont little realized the dangers of the route. From the Dalles he followed up the Deschutes River to its headwaters in S. E. Oregon, then over the Divide to the Klamath. In Long Valley he saw almost naked Indians around a sagebrush fire. Bancroft, Calif. XXV. [37] Because of the great rock formations on its banks and on the island resembling the Pyramids of Egypt. Banc. Cal., XXV, 437. [38] These Indians had seen white men before or had traded with others who had, as they possessed trinkets and buttons of white manufacture, Smith, in Sec. Bien. Rep. of Nev. Hist. Soc., 122ff. [39] Smith in Sec. Bien. Rep. of Nev. Hist. Soc., 125. [40] His horse's feet were badly cut. Here the Indians gave them pine nuts and consented to act as guides. Smith, in Sec. Bien. Rep. of Nev. Hist. Soc. [41] Cold and weak from lack of food, they almost forgot their condition while gazing at this mountain lake which no white man had seen before, Smith, in Sec. Bien. Rep. of Nev. Hist. Soc., 143. [42] Fremont nearly lost his life by falling into the American River but Kit Carson rescued him. Smith, 150. [43] Bancroft, Calif., IV, 582. Fremont in his Memoirs tells of the explorations and gives the longitude and latitude of different places along the route. Fremont, Memoirs of My Life, 438. [44] He camped at Lower Canyon, a few miles above Wadsworth on the future line of the C. P. Railroad. [45] He means Cold Creek, two miles south of Donner Lake, as the Truckee heads at Lake Tahoe. Fremont's Geog. Memoirs, 28-30. [46] Banc. Calif., XXV, 582. [47] When he reached California he was told to leave and did so but later returned. [48] He also named as well as discovered on his expeditions the Carson, Truckee, and Walker Rivers and Pyramid, Walker and Tahoe Lakes. Walker Lake and River were named after the faithful companion of that name and the Carson River for the fearless guide, Kit Carson. As to the name of the Truckee, he called it Salmon Trout. However, the story is told that one of his men was a Canadian named Truckee who was a general favorite with the party. One day Truckee accidentally fell into the river. The whole party simultaneously shouted "Truckee." He was rescued and the name was bestowed upon the river in memory of this accident. Carson Daily Appeal, May 7, 1875 in statement of John Flamborg, a Pottawottamie halfbreed who crossed the plains with Fremont and was well known to old Humboldters. The other version is that the name Truckee was given by the Stevens-Murphy party in 1844 in honor of an Indian guide who was very friendly and pleasing. He was called Truckee because of his resemblance to a Frenchman of that name. Some have said that this guide later served Fremont. Angel, Nev. 25. [49] Coman, Amer. Settlers, II, 234. [50] Banc. Calif., IV, 576. [51] Banc. Calif., IV, 576. [52] Banc. Calif., IV, 576. [53] Angel, Nev., 26. [54] Angel, Nev., 26. He traveled a portion of the way from Independence with the Donner Party. [55] Angel, Nev., 26. [56] Two brothers, Geo. and Jacob Donner and their families of sixteen persons, the Reed family of 7 and the Graves family of 12. They were joined at Independence by the Breen family and still farther on Mrs. Murphy and children joined the expedition. [57] Angel, Nev., 27. [58] Angel, Nev., 27. [59] Stanton had gone ahead for relief and he came back with supplies from Sutter's Fort. [60] Some of the party did persist in proceeding on their journey but out of 17 only 7 survived. [61] Banc., Cal., 541. [62] The second aid came on February 10, 1847. Many had already died and the survivors had eaten the rawhide moccasin strings. When aid came 23 started out again to cross the mountains but two returned to the cabin and three died on the way as they were too weak to stand the trip. On Feb. 25. Jas F. Reed returned to the camp with relief and started back with 17 but they were all compelled by a storm to return to Donner Lake. Mr. Reed and his children and one other person finally reached Woodworth Camp in Sear Valley. Angel, Nev. 28. Mr. Reed then organized the fourth relief party which found only Kieseburg alive. Geo Donner awl his wife and Mrs. Murphy had recently died. [63] Fairfield, Hist. Lassen Co., 1. [64] Fairfield, Hist. Lassen Co., 6. [65] Fairfield, Hist. Lassen Co., 11. [66] Fairfield, Hist. Lassen Co., 17. [67] Fairfield, Hist. Lassen Co., 20. [68] Fairfield, Hist. Lassen Co., 383. [69] Fairfield, Hist. Lassen Co., 185. [70] Coman, Econ. Beg. of the Far West, Vol. II, 234. [71] Fairfield, Hist. Lassen Co., 17. [72] Coman, Econ. Beg. of the Far West, Vol. II, 234. [73] Wright, The West the Best, 9. [74] Nev. Ter. Directory, 1863. [75] Angel, Hist of Nev., 624. [76] Angel, Hist. of Nev., 623. [77] Angel, Hist. of Nev., 624. [78] Gold Hill Daily News, May 3, 1865. [79] Statement of F.M. Willis, Pacific Grove, Calif. [80] Fairfield, 243. [81] Statement of R.L. Fulton, Reno, Nev. [82] Statement of Robt. Lewers, Reno, Nev. [83] Statement of Mrs. F. Thompson, Reno, Nev. [84] Statement of Mrs. F. Thompson, Reno, Nev.; this building is still standing, having been moved to the rear of the new Riverside Hotel. [85] Statement of Mrs. F. Thompson, Reno, Nev. [86] Dan De Quille, 26. In 1850 Mormon emigrants, waiting for spring to open the roads to Calif. discovered gold but went on to Calif. In 1852 the Grosch brothers mined at Gold Canyon and knew in part the value of their claims. But both died before the news of their discovery became general. Then came the group of miners Comstock, O'Reilly, McLaughlin and Finney, or Old Virginia, and the discovery of the famous lode of the Comstock. The find was made known to the world by a rancher named W. P. Morrison living on Truckee Meadows. He went to the Comstock on business and on leaving took some of the supposed sulphur which was so difficult to work and as he had business in his old home, Nevada City, he had the stuff assayed there on June 24, 1860. It was found to be rich in gold and silver. Angel, Nev., 60. [87] Powell, Land of Silver, 15. [88] Angel, Nev. 662. Travelers changed the Indian word to Washoe. [89] Brown, 308. [90] Overland, May, 1869. [91] Nev. Ter. Direct. 1863, 165. [92] Powell, Nev The Land of Silver, 17. [93] The Argonauts of Cal., 229. [94] The Argonauts of Cal., 229. [95] Nev. Ter. Directory, 1863. 165. [96] Angel, Nev. 624. [97] Nev. Ter. Direct., 1864-65, 35. [98] Sac. Daily Union, June 1, 1863. [99] Statement of Mr. G.W. Mapes, Reno, Nev. [100] Fairfield, Hist. of Lassen Co., 302. [101] Nev. Ter. Direct., 1861-65, 23. [102] Angel, Nev. 102. [103] Argonauts of Calif., 223. [104] Coman, II, 355. [105] Angel, Nev., 102. [106] Humboldt Register, May 20, 1865. [107] Angel, Hist. Nev., 107. [108] Argonauts of Cal., 210. [109] Argonauts of Cal., 224. [110] Overland, May, 1869, 469. [111] Wright, The West the Best. 14. [112] Coman, Economic Beg. of Far West, II, 352; Angel, Nev. 272; It was to go by way of the Lakes to the Oregon territory. From then on he labored with Congress. [113] Overland, May, 1869. [114] Prof. I. J. Cox, Ph. D., University of Cincinnati, Lectures. [115] Coman, Econ. Beg. of Far West, II, 366. [116] Beckwith, Report to the War Dept., Feb. 25, 1875 of Explorations and surveys for a Railroad, 7-25. [117] Fairfield, Lassen Co., 384. [118] Now there are about nine railroads instead of one and they are all paying dividends. They follow the old emigrant trails except in places where the engineer found he could shorten the routes and lessen the grades. [119] Coman, II, American Settlers, 353. [120] Goddard, Where to Emigrate and Why, 540. [121] Semple, Am. Hist. in Rel. to Geog. Cond., 231. [122] The general opinion was that this was the wild fancy of a few lunatics who did not know how to build a road. Argonauts of Cal. 227. [123] Overland Monthly, Feb., 1869, 160. [124] J. C. Waite, Overland Monthly, Jan 1875, 10. [125] Overland, May, 1869, 472. [126] Overland Monthly, Jan. 1875, 13. [127] Overland Monthly, Jan., 1875, 13. [128] Humboldt Register, Sept. 16, 1865. [129] Humboldt Register, Oct. 21, 1865. [130] Angel, Nev., 275. [131] Angel, Nev., 275. [132] Angel, Nev., 275. [133] Fairfield, 68 [134] Fairfield, 262. [135] Gold Hill Daily News, May 4, 1868. [136] Sacramento Daily Union, April 1, 1868. [137] Fairfield, Hist. of Lassen Co., 386. [138] Coman, II, 360. [139] Sacramento Daily Union, Feb. 24, 1868. [140] Overland, May, 1864. [141] Overland, May, 1869, 474. [142] Overland, Sept., 1869, 245. [143] Overland, Sept., 1869, 245; the locomotive was transported over the gap by teams. [144] A telegram was sent to Nev. and Cal. towns that the track had been completed to Reno at noon, making 46 miles east of the Sierras in operation. [145] Angel, Nev. 275. [146] Carson Daily Appeal, Aug. 28, 1868. [147] Ibid. The same writer, a correspondent of the S. F. Times, described the scenery along the route of the C. P. in course of construction. Donner Lake, hemmed in by great walls, had never heard the swing of so many loggers' axes before. As the course progressed the traveler could look down gullies filled with snow where the sun had never shone. Then down the Truckee, pure and limpid, to its meadows, was a beautiful trip, while watching the logs drift down the stream. He was not impressed with the scenery or Reno. The sagebrush and the dreary hills were the only scenery and Wadsworth, he said, was the ugliest place on the line. [148] Sacramento Daily Union, Mar. 21, 1868. [149] The Countryman brothers came to build the English Mill and pre-empted land lying north of the track now in the Evan's Addition. The English Mill was built in 1865, the spot being called Auburn. The old residents remember this little settlement where a quartz mill was operated for a time. Fuel and water were convenient and quartz was brought from several directions. [150] Statement of the late Mrs. Stith, Reno, Nev. [151] Statement of D. B. Boyd, deceased Ex. Co. Treas., Reno, Nev. He had it recorded Dec. 9, 1862 and patented Aug 10, 1865. [152] Statement of B. F. Leete, Reno, Nev. [153] Statement of D. B. Boyd, Reno, Nev. [154] Statement of D. B. Boyd, Reno, Nev. The map is now in the Nev. Hist. Soc. Coll., 844 N. Center St., Reno, Nev. [155] Now a cigar store and soft drink parlor in 1924. [156] Statement of R.L. Fulton, Reno, Nev. [157] Gold Hill Daily News, 1868. [158] Pronounced Rano. [159] Carson Daily Appeal. [160] Carson Daily Appeal, June 28, 1868. [161] Statement of S. M. Jameson, Reno, Nev., also Carson Daily Appeal. July 6, 1868. [162] Carson Daily Appeal, Aug. 27, 1868.
|
39 | ||||