The Overland Diary of "Nonsensical Nellie" Phelps, 1859

[From The Placerville Mountain Democrat, 1860]

NELLIE'S LETTER

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Monsieur le Editeur: Shall I tell you how Nellie happened to come to California?

Nellie is an orphan, with only one brother, and he is younger than she. Her uncle, with whom she was living, failed in business, and for the past five years she has taken care of herself. There always will be reverses in business, when things are all turned uppermost; merchants gloomy and sad, many of them broken to pieces and disheartened, and not knowing where to get bread for their families. During the last two winters at the North, it has been a dark time, very dark. I pity those who are standing on a pinnacle, not knowing but they will soon be plunged into the dark gulf which lays beneath them. I pity them, but a man must put on good courage, and when the storms are about him, do the best he can. Clear skies will come again.

It might be well enough, but to her sad heart no encouragement was of any moment that did not hold out the prospect of immediate relief, a place in which she could labor and obtain food. The fact was, she had reached a point in the state of her affairs at which she must come to a stand, and look forth in some new direction for a path to follow; and she had resolved to go to California where there was more demand for female labor.

Political changes had changed her fortune. The Register, or Recorder, was not re-elected, so she was thrown out of employment, as she had been engaged as a copyist in his office; and she was unable to get a situation as teacher in any of the public schools, as the term was commenced before she left the office. At the request of her friends, she opened a select school,--rented a room, purchased a stove, wood, and school-room furniture, and commenced with flattering prospects, but alas! how fleeting! During the second week, there were ten of the scholars taken sick, others were withdrawn, and the scarlet fever broke up the school. The clouds hung heavy and dark around her. She had been to some expense in fitting up the room, &c., and was out of employment, while her purse ached with emptiness. With the money she expected to receive from her scholars, she intended to pay her fare to Iowa City. But now she had only one dollar, and purposed going to California. Winter was at hand, too, with its frosts to chill the heart, and dry up the streams of trade, already sluggish and shallow.

She was possessed of strong feelings. Hitherto the effect of them had been to nerve her heart with the most engrossing tenderness to those upon whom her love had been placed; and its out-pouring had filled those dear ones with the fondest hopes, and most affecting consolations. But her very strength of feeling was turning in upon herself, and working upon her sensitive spirit with a power that would soon unfit her for the severe struggle in which she had engaged. It conjured up before her all the dark visions of the past, only to throw a deeper gloom upon the stern realities of the present. With a sad and desolate heart, she mingled with the busy multitude through the day, and retired at night to her sleepless bed, or to awake from troubled dreams to the consciousness of her dependent and unhappy condition.

No wonder if a change is manifest on her youthful brow. Alas! this is but another taste of the bitter cup. What, think you, would it be to wring out the dregs and drink them?--There are more evils in this changing scene, than your young heart has yet imagined; and yet there are sweet draughts, too, whose potent charms steal o'er the soul, entrancing it with pleasures beaming from a better world, and giving rich for taste of what it may yet enjoy. The lights and the shadows, the sweet and bitter draughts are appointed with a wiser aim, and for a better end, than our fancy fashions.

She knew that man had but to assume his position in society, and maintain it; but woman has hers to attain, and must battle for it, step by step. She had faith in God. "He will regard the prayer of the destitute." He is a father to the orphan, and will provide,--She feared that she would have to abandon her project. However, the young ladies and gentlemen told her they would attend a writing school, if she would open one, which she accordingly did; thus enabling her to pay her railroad fare; and by borrowing fifty dollars, and selling, or turning her books, pictures, vases and part of her clothing towards her board, and getting her "fitting out," she was ready to start with the train overland to California, to which place she has arrived, and is now engaged in teaching. Thus, you see, the Lord and the people will help those who try to help themselves.

If you think that this, with a copy of her journal across the Plains, is worthy of a place in your paper, perhaps it may help to encourage the desponding, and interest those who have never enjoyed or "suffered" tent-life.

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NELLIE'S JOURNAL

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Monday, April 4th, 1849 [1859].--Started for the Corunna [Michigan] Depot at half past eight o'clock. Found depot crowded with friends who came to bid us good-bye as we started for California, by overland route. We thought we would be very brave, and "shed not a tear," but others weeping around us, soon made us lose command over our feelings--and then such boo-hoo-ing! such a waving of cambric! such a dampness--verily several persons went home with severe colds dated from that instant.--The Rev. Mr. S proposed that they should sing "When shall we meet again?" which was done in a fresh outburst of tears.—"There is a happy land," was also sung, and as the time approached for us to leave, we wept bitterly as we bade friends good-bye, whom we may never see again. But the cars came not until an hour and a half had passed, being behind times; and then we had to go through the kissing and embracing of our "dear 500 friends" again. "Phancy our phelinks." I told them that since I had received so many kisses, I would be able to open a confectionary in California.

Arrived in Detroit at 10 o'clock P.M. At 7 P.M., took berths in sleeping car for Chicago,--found them very comfortable. We talked and laughed until 12 o'clock; and finally Mrs. C. took an upper berth, as I had just resolved to sit up the rest of the night, and we went to sleep. But our slumbers were brief--for lo! there cometh a masculine biped with rapid stride and rousing tone, saying unto us, "arise ye! knowest thou not that an iron horse in his wild career hath run off the track, and thou canst, in this car, no longer lie dormant, but must hie thee to another?" Then sprang I up, and with loud voice did startle all that they might be ready to depart. Then cometh murmurings and regrets to leave quarters so comfortable, and doubts and unbeliefs of man's veracity; but scrambling there was, and hasty putting on of outer garments, as in cometh the change man to put up the beds. But alas! for human tardiness--from one until four o'clock A.M., waited we for another train. At last the conductor biddeth us go hence. We goeth out--when oh! the wintry blast and driving sleet greeteth us all too coldly. The snow was in depth four inches. With rapid steps we faced the driving storm, and soon we entered sleeping car No. 2, and were swiftly borne along. But ah! again we stop, ere we Kalamazoo have reached. Here we remaineth an hour, and at last are on our way, five hours behind the time.

Arrived in Chicago at 1 P.M. Saw them raising blocks of buildings six feet higher, by means of large iron screws, an inch at a time. The street had been filled up. I am well pleased with Chicago. At 11 o'clock P.M. we started for Rock Island. Arrived in Iowa City. As the men with the horses and wagons had started the last day of February, and were then in Iowa, we expected them to meet us. We found Mr. C., Mr. G. and Mr. M. waiting to greet their wives; also Mr. W. and myself. After dining, we got into the wagons that were to be our homes for such a long time, and started for the camp, which was 8 miles distant. We were badly frightened riding over the rough, muddy roads, on side hills and steep places, while the wind blew over the prairies bitter cold. How glad we were when we espied some one jump from a distant straw shack, and knew it was a sentinel watching for our coming. Soon we began to wind through a newly cut road and descend a hill, and lo! we behold the tents among the trees. The curtains are thrown up, we wave the North-east corner of our shawls, we shout aloud, we clap our hands, we jump from our go-isles, and shake hands with the rest of the party. Willie L., as artist, had embellished the tents with "Charcoal Sketches." Theodore was commander in chief of the cooking utensils of a sheet iron stove, and was frying some prairie chickens. A camp fire was surrounded by a pinnacle-like structure--architect, Mr. Clark. The horses were hitched under a bowery; as the men had camped here two weeks. In Mrs. C.'s tent was another cooking stove over which Mr. B. presided as ruling genius of the "house-hold gods" of this department, and he deformed the cookinary botherations with wonderful alacrity. The men flew around like kittens on a hot johnny-rake to get our supper. B., as head cook, very soon had his hands immersed in a pan of flour, which under his skillful treatment, fast assumed a recognizable shape. We were soon called to supper, and seated ourselves upon trunks, feed-boxes and pails around a table that could be taken to pieces, (nine of us in Mr. C.'s Co., and fifteen in Mr. G.'s) and drank as good tea from tin basins, and ate biscuit, pork, dried beef and molasses with all the gusto of an epicae at a first class hotel: B. washed the silver plate, (fashion in Iowa to make silver things out of tin,) hung things upon the floor, and we spread the beds on the first story, and prepared to go to roost. Mr. C. and wife had one side of the tent, Mr. M. and family the other side, and my humble self the tother eend; rooms partitioned with shawls. The boys slept in the wagons.

Thursday, 7th. Awakened by hearing the birds sing. Fine morning, but cool and windy. I used the lid of the porcelain kettle and the small dipper as substitute for a gong. Had breakfast. Bustled around, packed up things, and got into the passenger wagon to start.--Didn't start so much as we might. Four horse team balky, finally all the horses began to dance and prance. Some time before four horses would go up the hill. We were to go to the 16 Mile House, which was ten miles from camp--went 20 miles, got off on the wrong road and didn't get on the right one until dark, as some of the people who did not know what color white beans were, directed us on the wrong road. Oh! dear! such roads, such sloughs! I do believe I lost ten pounds of beef from fright. The four-horse team was stuck three times. The wind was bitter cold. Mrs. C. and I got out to walk--just then down went all four of the horses in a slough; the men unhitched them, unloaded the wagon, and finally got it out of the mud. Mrs. C. and I walked up to a little house on the top of the hill, and went in to get warm and study "human natur'." Found a feeble woman and three children. She said there was not much ague, but more consumption there, and she did not like to live there. We started again, and at 6 P.M. reached the 16 Mile House.--Mr. S. W. and T. went with the drove of cattle on another road, and had been waiting for us a long time. Went into the bar-room where there was a big log fire to get warm. Mr. J. W. G. of California is here purchasing cattle to take back with him. Pitched tents, had supper, went to bed, cold night, didn't sleep much. I had an attack of a night horse. I woke up by screaming and finding myself away out on the wet ground, while one of the horses had got loose, and stuck his nose on the tent close by my head while he tried to get the hay under the bed.

Friday, 8th. A little snow on the ground that fell in the night. The season is three weeks more backward here than in Michigan. We do not see any green grass here, and there the earth was covered with its emerald carpet. Breakfasted, and started westward 8 A.M.--The sun was shining, but the air was very cold. I noticed that the fences were only two or three rails high, or made of wire, owing to the scarcity of timber. We saw a prairie on fire. We soon came to Washington, situated on a stream, quite hilly and sandy. Many person suppose the Washington of District of Columbia to be the Capitol of the U.S. Washington is a city of magnificent distances, and this certainly must be the place meant, for the houses were so distant from each other, that we could not discern them. Saw a girl with a brown dress, green apron, yellow handkerchief tied under her arms, and a blue bonnet. Politeness is something good to eat, I presume they think, and not raised in this country, as they know so little about it. The prairies may look very beautiful, in Summer time, but they are anything but inviting now. No trees to break the cold, bleak winds that sweep across them with such force. No barns, fruit trees, or shrubbery around. No school houses to be seen. An air of loneliness and desertion around. Oh dear! I had a shake of the ague in the wagon. Came 20 miles, and pitched our tents a few rods from the town of South English.

Saturday, 9th. Warm April showers. I feel weak and have no appetite. We decided to abbreviate our dresses, and sport the Bloomer, as we were constantly burning great holes in our dresses when we hit against the stove, besides tearing them on the bushes, and getting them drabbled on the wet ground. They are not a very graceful looking dress, but nevertheless are very convenient and just the thing for such a jaunt. As I had another ague shake, I made my bed on the table, for the ground was very wet.

Sunday, 10th. Warm morning, with light showers. All of us went to meeting. I saw the Dunkards for the first time. They believe in imitating the disciples; the men wear broad-brimmed hats, and part their hair in the middle and wear it and their beard very long. All the women combed their hair plain behind their ears, and wore Swiss mull caps, Quaker-like. One man lined the hymns, another read a chapter from Hebrew, a third prayed, and a fourth preached from the whole chapter. They believe in being so familiar with the whole Bible as to have any one preach from any portion without previous preparation, also in washing the feet of each other, as did the disciples of old.

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NELLIE'S JOURNAL

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Tuesday, 12th. The people were astonished to hear inquiries after potatoes, and said they did not raise them. Eggs were only five cents a dozen, so we ate them, until we were completely eggs-sauce-ted. Butter could not be had, and the flour was made from spring wheat, so the bread was dark and moist.

Converted S. W. corner of tent into a hospital. The men shot several times at wild geese--wild geese up above thought that there were wilder geese below, so flew higher still. As I could not find the soft side of the boards, I made my bed on the ground again, as it being wet made it much softer, and very conducive in promoting the ague.

Friday, 15th. Very cold and cloudy. Water brought from the sloughs. Drinking fluid rather dark--discovered forty shakes of the ague, nine tad-poles, seven frogs, five snakes and wiggle-tails innumerable in every pail-full. P. went over to South English,--when he came back he said there was a great excitement in the town, as the people had discovered a huge iceberg, covering twenty acres, and three hundred feet high. On close examination it was found to be inhabited by three children, three white bears, one sea serpent and one mermaid. The men were coming from all parts to see the mermaid, and the women had armed themselves with guns to dispatch her; but P. told them that she spoke only the Russian language, so they spared her life, and he returned to camp.

Saturday, 16th. The air is a little warmer, but we think that we won't have any dry weather as long as this wet spell holds. Scoured the knives by running them in the ground. Didn't mop floor, and sweep hall stairs, but put water on the stove, so as to soak off some of the Iowa dirt, and to make an elaborate toilet, as I was invited to take tea in Mrs. G.'s tent. Mr C. says we must pull up stakes, for he can get no hay or corn for the horses.—Almost resolve to tattoo my face, let my hair hang down, wear my big blue apron, and sit quiet for half an hour, because the gal-party is spoiled. Went to South English. Stopped in a log house to warm, while the men pitched the tents. Two girls rushed out and put a hoop in the bottom of their dresses, in honor of our arrival. Old man grumpy--old woman sociable. First well water we have had to drink.

Tuesday, 19th. Pleasant day. Roads better. In going through a deep mud-hole, one of the whipple-trees broke--took a rail from a fence and made another. We safely crossed the Skunk flats, which had been much dreaded by all. Soon came to South Skunk river--went down a steep hill, forded river a little ways, and then ferried across and found a fine camping ground.

Wednesday, 20th. Stopped a while in Oscaloosa, a very fine place. We had to ferry the pretty river Des Moines. After one load had been ferried over, we had to wait until a stone was fastened to the rope which was then lowered in the river, so that a stern-wheel boat, the Chas. Rogers, might pass--a cunning little steamer that had been up to Fort Des Moines, sixty miles above here. At last we went on board the ferry which was drawn across the river by means of a windlass or capstan,--landed in Bellefountain, a miserable looking place. Camped on a hill.

Monday, 25th. I have been very sick with the ague. Started very early. Had a long, stony, winding hill to go up--Polly skittish and baulky, and jumped and backed so that I thought our light wagon would run off into the gully; so I jumped out, and walked up the hill, while the horses ran and jumped, which frightened me to shaking. Cloudy, chilly day. Went twelve miles over an unbroken prairie. As I was so very sick, had my bed made in the wagon. Mrs. C. was asleep, leaning on a basket which she had placed in the seat, and in going through a slough, the wagon tipped suddenly throwing her on one side, and nearly upsetting the wagon, so that the men held it up, and pushed it out of the hole. Saw a boy on a home-made deer--a comical sight. After coming twenty-three miles, we found a few trees on a small stream. Clouds gathering fast. R. went to shoot a prairie hen, and the pistol exploded, hurting his hand badly. When the cook was pouring the gravy into a basin, some of the grease spattered on the stove, and caught fire, blazing up to the top of the tent ; and in order to prevent a greater illumination, the basin was knocked on to the ground, and all the gravy spilled. At supper, a basin of hot tea was upset on L's sleeve, thus hurting his other arm. The rain began to fall, and started me from my bed, as it sifted through the tent and wet us all. We made preparations for a stormy night. When we retired, I put my shawl under the bed-clothes, and my gaiters under my pillow to keep them dry. We are soon awakened by the roaring of Heaven's artillery, and the vivid flashing of the lightning; while the rain poured down in torrents, running in the tent, and saturating our beds. Finally the wind changed, and the rain beat through the gable end of the tent on me in such streams that I raised up to find something to wrap around my head, when down came the poles;--I caught hold of one to prevent it cracking my devoted head, and pulled all the bed-clothes over my head, while the rain poured in torrents on your humble servant's head and back. I halloed! I screamed aloud! I shouted that the tent was down; but Mr. C. very demurely says--"Oh! I guess not," and raised up his head, when a sheet of water struck him ker-slap in the countenance. Mrs. C. remained "all curled up in a little heap," and kept that part of her bed dry; but he bounded up, dispensing for the time being with his pair of unthinkaboutables, having only the flashes of lightning to guide him in his movements. He called loudly and frequently for Mr. M., but no answer could be heard, as the tent was down flat on our heads. At last Mr. M. crawled over the trunks, from under the tent, and without taking time to make an elaborate toilet, he rushed towards a pole, frantically seized it, and held it up; while Mr. C. in similar attitude at the opposite end, stood yelling to the boys in the wagons to help us. Finally they heard the cries for help above the din of the storm and the roar of the wind, and they leaped from their wagons, which had nearly been overturned into the stream; and with drenched clothing, and lantern in hand, came to disclose to our view such a comical scene. At either end of the tent stood M. and C. holding up the posts, while the continuation of their shirt collars were waving in the breeze, and the rain dripping therefrom. Mrs. M. thought to lay her child in a dry place, and ker-splash he went into the water, her bed being full of it, so she crawled out with him in her arms, and stood bent over, all wet and dripping. Mrs. C. lay covered up in bed--and I sat up with the blankets over my head to "shed rain," while every article in the tent was wet. We were right merry over our mishap, and soon the tent had again assumed an upright position in society. A fire was made, and the rest of the night was spent in drying the bedding and wearing apparel,--but oh! such a desolate looking tent in the morning!

Friday, 29th. The dear little violet's blue eyes are peeping at us, every now and then. Council Bluffs not as large a place as I expected to see. Received "good news from home"--feasted my intellectual appetite from the letters, while feasting an appetite of more earthly nature from the luncheon pail. Found a letter from -- somebody, who had been waiting for our company to arrive, that he might see, look at, and behold the unadorable and most disagreeable Nellie. Stern fate had decreed that he should look in vain for the train in which was his anticipated Dulcinea, so he penned a letter immediately after having been subjected to the hot chills and cold flashes of that greatest of earthly shakings--the ague. After waiting a long time, our turn came, and we went on board a steam ferry, on which, that day one hundred and twenty-seven teams had crossed the turbid Missouri,--thus we left the States with dry tears in our eyes, and in a few minutes landed in the city of Omaha, Nebraska Territory. We drove thro' the city which I admired very much, drove over the military bridge; around it were encamped many people; and pitched our tents near a brook one mile north of the city. There were two hundred and thirty-one tents on the ground, which with the horses and cattle grazing on the beautiful hills, made a scene that would have pleased you. We retired to rest, grateful for God's goodness, for letters from home, and that our way was cast in pleasant places..

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NELLIE'S JOURNAL

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Saturday, 30th. Pleasant day. Gov. Richardson and family visited us, and after giving us a cordial invitation to visit them rode away. We went to the Post Office, a fine new brick building, two stories high; thence to a bookstore, and then we went up the hill on which the new Capitol, in all its queenly beauty is enthroned. The interior is not finished--the building has already cost $90,000, and they have applied for $80,000 more to complete it. We had a fine view of the surrounding country, which we thought was "quite rural in the outskirts, with considerable land around."--Council Bluffs was opposite of us, and the Missouri was rolling its turbid waters rapidly along, while numerous gothic cottages called forth our admiration; and I returned to the tent, very much in love with the young but lovely city of Omaha.

Sunday; May 1st. Cloudy--wind high. We purposed going to church; so I hurried to get through with my ague shake before the bell rang, but alas! the rain soon began to fall; and I had a harder shake than usual, and was somewhat delirious with the fever. The rain sifted through the tent, and in order to save the water, three tin plates and a pair of unwhisperables were placed over the bed-clothes on my bed.

Monday, 2nd. The Pawnee Indians came to the tents, begging. Such hideous looking creatures! Oh! they would have frightened you, you dear, nervous, timid, little creatures, you! with their half-clothed bodies and painted faces. Some had their hair cut close, except a ridge like a mule's mane, extending from their forehead to their neck, ending in a long lock, to the end of which was attached tin and brass ornaments, and heads of prairie hens. Their ears, foreheads, and cheeks were covered with red paint, while every lineament of their features was indicative of cruelty, deceit and malice.

Saturday, 7th. Sick all the week. Received letters from Cleveland. My cousin wrote me if I did not get over the ague before we got to O. to return to Cleveland. I replied that I did not wish to give up my pet project of going to California--That I had put my "hand to the plow," and did not wish "to turn back." I am the architect of my own fortune, and "Fortes fortuna jurat." Also that "Remuda de pasturage haze bizerros gordos. ("Change of pasture makes fat calves.") Mrs. R. sent for me to come to her house, and remain with her until we left O. I went down--found the Gov. a very agreeable and intelligent gentleman--his wife an exemplary woman, and his daughter Cornelia an amiable and lovable young lady. They treated me very kindly--God bless them! I went up stairs and rested my weary body on a comfortable bed, as in nights gone by.

Sunday, 8th. Had some ice cream, blanc mange, and three kinds of jellies sent from the Herndon, a large four story brick hotel, of which Lyman Richardson and Dr. Willard are proprietors. The Wednesday evening previous we had attended a concert there. After the concert there was a ball. I was too weak to dance, but was much entertained by seeing the others enjoy themselves, and by the agreeable conversation of Gov. Black, present Governor of the Territory; Gen. Easterbrook, Secretary of State; and the ladies to whom I had been introduced. I am charmed and delighted with the residents of O. They are intelligent, wealthy and refined eastern people--the society is excellent. I feel much stronger; thanks be to my God, my friends, and Ayre's Ague Cure. Cornelia favors me with such fine music, she being a skillful player on the piano.

Sunday, 15th. I had an opportunity of teaching in a select school here, but I did not wish to remain. During the past week, "Somebody" took me out riding several times.

Monday, 16th. As it rained very hard on the Sabbath, the mud was soft in consequence, and the clouds had not passed from before the face of the sun, when Mr. and Mrs. C. in the passenger wagon, drove up to the door, to know if I was ready to start for California; as Madam Rumor with her hundred tongues, had been busy reporting that there was a wedding in prospect. Madam Rumor, like many excellent ladies, was mistaken in her matrimonial speculations, and notwithstanding some looked disappointed and vexed because I did not marry $100,000 with an ex Mayor thrown in; Nellie pursued "the even tenor of her way, in maiden meditation, fancy free." Mrs. R. generously gave me books and papers to read; and after taking an affectionate leave of the family to whom I had become very much attached, I entered a carriage, driven by a friend who was going to drive out a few miles. At last, bidding him adieu, I returned to my old seat in our go-icle. The sun now shone out, brightly, and with a sense of relief, I looked upon it as prophetic--that my days would be brighter than if I had remained in Nebraska. We only went fourteen miles, stopped early. We put away our Sunday-go-to-meeting clothes and Sabbath-day coolers, so that they might not see day light until we approached our journey's end; donned our bloomers, and were ready for supper.

Tuesday, 17th. A pleasant morning. Met some Pike's Peakers returning; when they were opposite of us, they very sweetly sang "Home, sweet home." Passed through the village of Elkhorn, containing seven houses. The Elkhorn river is a pretty stream, and Government has built a fine bridge over it.--On the banks of the same stream we ate our luncheon of cold baked beans, which were not bad to take at all, at all. Eight Indians on horseback, painted and very ferocious, came riding at full speed, yelling and angry, because we did not buy moccasins. At last we came in sight of the Platte river, a beautiful, broad, shallow and muddy stream; full of sand-bars and islands. Had a fine camping ground. The full moon rising behind the trees, the camp fires around, and the prairie on fire in the distance, made a pleasant evening scene; while we listened to the grand orations of Ker Chug, executed by a thousand performers of the Frog family.

Wednesday, 18th. Saw two little boys whose father during the past winter, was lost on the prairies, frozen to death, and eaten by the wolves. Saw a grave dug by some disappointed Peakers, who said they were going to bury Sam Curtis in it, when he came along; for his instrumentality in inducing so many to start for Pike's Peak. At North Bend observed a large crowd around a man who had one half of his head and face shaved, and had been blindfolded and severely whipped. There were nineteen in his company and he was very anxious to keep watch, so when he was on guard, he stole two yoke of oxen, put the yokes on another wagon, got the man to drive his cattle along, and then he was going to join him in a day or two, but he was found out and punished. Met seventy-five wagons coming back, with men bumbugged. Beautiful flowers, with their tiny starry faces are gazing at us from the road-side.

Thursday, 19th. Some men got to wrestling, finally had a fight in their camp, breaking ribs, shooting one man through the shoulder, and hurting another badly. Went near Shinn's ferry, but didn't cross it. Mr. Shinn was formerly a Methodist minister--has not preached for some time--lately turned his attention to making money out of the emigrants to the Peak. He became afraid of the mob threatened to kill him, so returned in great haste to Omaha. We crossed Loupe Fork by ferrying part of the way and fording the rest. Had a thunder shower in the night. Horses stampeded. All the men, except B. and R. gone after them. The tent would have blown away if it had not been larriated down so firmly. As it was, we poor, lone female women, were momentarily expecting to see it fly away, and leave us to the fury of the rain and wind, in which the men were spinning around like tops, going this way and that way, having lost their way. At last they found their way back to the tent, and early in the morning started off in search of the stray quadrupeds, which were found four miles off.

Saturday, 21st. Came to the Lone Tree Station. Noticed some men trying to catch a pony that was lame, yet sufficiently swift of motion as to elude their grasp. After thus keeping away from them, he very composedly walked into the river, and coolly looked around at his pursuers, but they did not follow him. P. jumped off his horse, and waded after him, but notwithstanding his bravery in breasting the waters of the Platte, and periling his life among the sand-bars and deep holes, the pony appreciated it not, steadily limping through the water, yet stopping ever and anon to look at us with perfect indifference, which, being observed by P., he deliberately walked out of the river, with pants and boots full of water, and the pony goes directly to the other shore.

Sunday, 22d. We travelled on the day that was given us by God to keep holy, and for rest. Camped on Wood's Creek, three miles from Platte river. Had a fine walk along its violet-embroidered banks. Wrote letters.

Monday, 23d. Fine morning.. Passed Dr. Henry's beautiful farm. We had all the curtains of our wagons rolled up, so that the wind might not upset them. The dust flew so that I was obliged to sport my goggles for the first time. Passed a sod house half built, with a stick stuck in it, and a place graded down the bank for fording. Four men who were sitting there, told us it was opposite of Fort Kearney. There was no boat or ferry, and the river was too high to ford. We went on a short distance but could find no trees or wood; and the lightning was darting through the blackening sky, while the loud thunder was heard and the rain was seen falling in the distance. Heard some one hallowing from an island, and soon saw four men fording the stream. In some places the water was very deep, and in others, the sand-bars were just covered. They had to cross twenty-five spaces between islands, the river being three miles wide. They had been to Fort K. to get letters for their company, but- the Post Master, with commendable strictness, would not let them have letters, except for themselves, without written orders. They said the Fort was a small square house, with a few cannon around--the greater part of the garrison had gone to Salt Lake City.--There are seventy-five islands in this vicinity. I counted forty-four as I sat in the wagon.--As we could not find any wood, the men split up the legs--(pardon me, fastidious reader,) limbs--ahem!--of the table for fuel; and after placing the leaves or top of the table on the trunks, we sat down on the ground to supper. The wind played such pranks that a wagon began to run backwards, and finally upset, before it could be staked down. If we womenites went out, the dry goods snapped alarmingly; and the tent being so violently agitated, to prevent its being rent in twain, the men took it down. When it was put up again, the wind had lulled somewhat. No rain fell where we were, although we could see vivid lightning and descending floods around us.

Tuesday, 24th. Before we were up, a man on horseback from another camp, came here to get our orders for letters, as he was going to ford the river. He was unable to get any, for the mail was a week behind time. How disappointed we all were! There were sudden facial elongations, and tear-bedimmed eyes to be seen. This afternoon we passed a place where there were a great many camped who had their provisions spread in the sunshine to dry. The hurricane of the previous evening had spent its fury on them. The wind had blown three heavily laden ox-wagons a quarter of a mile from the rest, where we saw them broken to pieces and scattered over the plains--wheels with spokes all blown out--yokes broken--provisions and boxes in one place, wagon box in another, so that out of three wagons they could not get enough to make one. A woman and three children were badly hurt; also one man who stepped on a wagon tongue, and the wind blew a trunk over the dash-board which struck him. The trunks were broken and clothes scattered.--Some of the wagons were blown in the river, and we saw the oxen drawing them out.—Road struck off to Elm Creek. Water scarce and muddy. Laid in a supply of wood to last eighty miles, as there is none for that distance, and after that, none for two hundred miles.

Wednesday, 25th. Thunder showers all night. A cold, drizzly rain to-day, so we concluded not to go on, but do plenty of cooking. Some of the men went buffalo hunting, but came back with wet clothes, tired feet, and empty stomachs, minus the buffalo. We were so cold that we had to go to bed very early, so as to save wood.

Thursday, 26th. Very cold. Mrs. C. and I bundled up in our heavy shawls, with a blanket around our shoulders, another over our laps, and yet we were uncomfortable from cold. Finally we had front curtains put down, Mr. S. peeped from one corner while driving. Another steep hill to go up, so front curtain goes up too. Saw an ox harnessed in a covered hand-cart, accompanied by three men.--Passed one train in which was a two-story wagon with glass windows, stove firmly fastened, and pipe projecting through the end, while the floor rested on the wagon bed, which was doubtless filled with provisions. Have seen cows yoked and pulling with the oxen. Camped by mud puddle, as there is no wood or water near. It is strange how one can endure exposure by standing, sitting, or lying on the ground, sleeping in damp bedding, with the cold night air blowing on us all night from under the edges of the tent; and yet enjoy such good health. At home it would kill us outright. Four wild geese swimming near an island--P. and M. thought they had a nest on the island, so they forded the stream; shot at the birds, didn't want to hurt them, so did not hit them; came back from a wild-goose chase, finding the water rather wet, and their clothes ditto.

Saturday, 28th. "Veraw foine" day. See no flowers now. Had the ague again. Camped at the Pawnee Springs, remarkable for the clearness and coolness of the water that bubbles up from a deep, grass-lined basin, bringing up fine white sand, then flowing off in a broad stream with a sandy bottom; sorely tempting us to pull off our shoes and stockings and wade in its pure, limpid waters like overgrown children. A rare treat, indeed, the pure fluid was, after swallowing draughts of the muddy Platte. "These springs are situated in the mouth of a seeming natural amphitheater, enclosed by high bluffs on the E. N. and W."

Monday, 30th. Met eleven mild, intelligent looking Indians of the Sioux tribe who, with the Cheyenne, are at war with the Pawnee, consequently their faces are painted. Saw a new made grave. A continuous line of bluffs, like a wall, separate us from the South Fork Sandy Bluffs--hard pulling for the horses.

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June 1st. Saw many prairie dog villages--the little fellows are as small as a squirrel, and run into their holes on our approach. Today a _____. I wonder if we all laid in "an ample stock of good humor, and a genuine disposition to be pleased, determining to travel in true contrabandista style, taking things as we found them, rough or smooth; and mingling with all classes in a kind of vagabond companionship. With such a disposition and determination, what a country this is for a traveler, where the most miserable inn is as full of adventure as an enchanted castle, and every meal is in itself an achievement. Passed several graves. Have not seen a house for sixteen days; "yet so extensive and uninhabited are many portions of these regions, that nature is still unsubdued, and wild men, as well as wild beasts, roam about at pleasure, in their original condition." I have heard that recent settlements have somewhat encroached upon this region of wildness, particularly those of Kansas. But while that new territory has been settled but little more than one hundred miles on the line of the great Santa Fe road, the traveler has nearly a thousand miles more to pass before he can find a civilized or a peopled country. Through that broad belt, the seasons come and go with the same changes as formerly, from summer to winter. For a time the ground is swept by freezing winds, and covered with snow, though the winter is short below the mountains; and. through the summer the prairies are clothed in grass of the richest shades of green, thickly interspersed with beautiful flowers, which extend in an unbroken surface like a rich carpet, over the swells and depressions of the rolling prairies, sometimes twenty or thirty miles under the eye of the spectator, standing on an eminence. The grass is nutritious, and the beneficence of the Creator is displayed in an almost unequalled manner, in the aspect of those remarkable regions, in the season of fertility. But the difficulties and dangers to which travelers are sometimes subject, even these cast a shade of melancholy and gloom over every reflecting mind. Bones of animals almost line the road in some parts, where mules and oxen have been turned out of the harness, when broken down by disease, lame, or famishing for want of water; or where, as on desert parts of the route, grass or water is never to be found.--But the signs of the death of men, women and children are more likely to produce sorrowful reflections, and to depress the minds of those pursuing the same long and sometimes hazardous route.

Saturday, 4th. Opposite of a rock which our guide tells us is the "Court House Rock, a huge, isolated mass of rocks, of a soft, marly formation, which the elements are fast wearing away. From some points of view, it resembles an ancient storm-beaten castle. Chimney Rock is a single slender shaft or column, rising from the summit of a low conical hill, to a great height. This is fast yielding to the hand of time. Capitol Hill, or Scott's Buffs, is a most singular group of hills, also on the opposite side of the river. Seen from a distance, by a slight stretch of the fancy, they resemble an ancient city of vast and massive buildings, with lofty domes and stately spires." Came in sight of Laramie's Peak, enshrouded in mist, and topped with snow.

Tuesday, 7th. Opposite Fort Laramie--the current too swift, so the boys could not swim the river and get, our letters.

Friday, 10th. Passed through vallies, over hills and mountains, some stony, tough and steep; while around us were reared, like a massive wall, lofty cedar-crowned mountains with rocky terraced sides, and enamelled hills be-gemmed with flowers of various hues.—Deep ravines with overhanging trees, through which the mountain torrent has leaped and gurgled in the early spring time, add beauty and interest to the scene, while our road winds in a circuitous route.

Saturday, 11th. Lost sight of Laramie's Peak. All started off in good spirits. There are eleven wagons, thirty-nine persons, many horses and cattle, and three dogs, making quite a cavalcade. Passed up a bluff where we saw boulders of a singular appearance, round and smooth, and some no larger than cannon balls, and others of great size. "It is from such as these that the river Cannon Ball, a tributary of the Missouri, takes its name." Camped in a beautiful grove on an island, where we had plenty of good wood.

Tuesday, 14th. Passed a log house, the first house that we have seen for twenty-three days. Bade adieu to the Platte, after journeying on its banks over 600 miles. Passed the mineral springs, the waters of which are injurious to man or beast. Came to Avenue Rock, which is a long ridge of jagged rocks, projecting from a grass-covered mountain, at the foot of the road winds. Camped within a mile of 300 Arappahoes.

Thursday, 16th. Went into a blacksmith shop to see a Rocky Mountain bear, one month old. From thence we went to Independence Rock, and at its base the horses were turned out to feed, while we ascended its smooth, steep sides. Up we went, full of glee, and in high spirits, owing, undoubtedly, to our being elevated. Up we went among the breezes who were having a wild frolic; up, up, with here a slip and there a jump--now a masculine hand extended to help a sliding feminine,--a leap--a spring--a loud hurrah!--and we are where Fremont and his men celebrated a Fourth of July. How we ran about, playing a game of romps with zephyr, gentle breeze, and the rude whirl-wind. This rock is 1,800 feet long, 600 feet wide, and 125 feet high, and is an isolated granite. Hundreds of names of emigrants, hunters, and explorers are engraved and painted on its surface. Along the south foot of the rock flows the beautiful Sweet Water, and here we first cross it. Having spent two hours here, we go on five miles further, turned out the horses to feed, bolted our dinners with unspeakable avidity, and commenced the ascent of the Devil's Gate.—Up we clambered over huge rocks piled one on another, with here a Cedar springing, as it were, out of the hard mass, or growing from a cleft whose rough edges seem to press the very life-sap from its trunk,—and there is a narrow winding path of earth blown hither, with tufts of flowers whose faces turn purple and scarlet with rage, at thus having their solitude broken. Now, we see a Cedar, and beneath its shade we fain would rest our weary limbs, but cannot spare the time. Here we stand near the edge of a perpendicular rock, and look downward, where we see rocks in wild confusion, and trees projecting from their sides, far beneath us; and we turn away, faint and dizzy, but up we go. We breathe hard--we pant--we puff--we don't walk as fast, we occasionally lean, stand still, or sit down--our faces have assumed the hue of the peony, perspiration moistens our phizzes, yet still we go up. After going hither and thither, leaping up and leaping down, we at last come to the highest point, and by kneeling down, while others hold on to us, we leaned over and gazed into the foaming depths below, where the Sweet Water madly rushed, lashing the rocks in its wild career. It was a grand sight! It was a sight that made our vision grow dim and our brain dizzy, and we started back in awe and wonder, that God, the mighty Creator, has piled rock upon rock, in magnificent grandeur, to please the eye of erring mortal! The water rushes through a most remarkable canon or gorge, 2,000 feet long, 120 feet wide, and 500 feet deep, with perpendicular walls of smooth solid granite. We descended the mountain by another path, and returned to the wagons, after having been absent three hours.

Having been asked why I started for California, I exclaim, as did one in days gone by, "Sons and daughters of men, for the light of whose presence my spirit yearneth, dost thou ask me why I take this journey? Is it not written that fortune smiles upon fools? And for the sake of these smiles, hath not thy servant been making a fool of herself? For two months and eighteen days hath she been going onward, and has not yet reached the place where she may sojourn, and perchance, dive into the water, and tear ancient rocks from their resting places, that she may find the 'root of all evil.' She has torn her dress in places not to be mentioned, the skin upon her face and hands hath changed its color until she is now likened unto wild Indians; and her garments are rent and soiled, so that 'sackcloth and ashes' would be as fine as 'purple and linen' to her. She would fain feed on husks, but there are none. Yea, she who in times past was wont to fare sumptuously, and to grumble over greater delicacies than were piled upon the table of Dives, now snuffles with gladness, the fragrance of pork and beans, and gnashes her teeth impatiently over a frying slap-jack. She boileth her rice with unspeakable avidity. Potato skins fear her presence, meat vanishes from before her, and dogs look in vain for the bones. She sighs for the flesh pots of Egypt, and mourns over the barrenness of the land. In her sleep, nevertheless, the good angel of the past deigns to visit her, and delightful visions are opened to her recollection, for a delicious "bill of fare" floats before the mind of the dreamer, and she eats of oysters and turtle, only to awaken to fare on the plains. All this hath thy servant endured. Is she not then a fool, an abomination in the sight of wisdom? And is it not unto such only that fortune dispenses her favors? Yet she hath deserted me. I approach her and she flieth. I "double on her trail," and she turneth away! I await her coming, and she stands still. Now, therefore, I renounce these parts--I put out--I slope--I depart, taking no heed of the morrow, for the morrow takes no heed of me. Ere the weeks have passed, the skirti-coats of thy servant will be waving in the breezes of Salt Lake City. A tatter will be nailed on the highest mountain that she crosses, as an emblem of the extremity to which woman may be reduced in the land of the West. Yet think not, oh! friends, that I would rend my garments for this alone. Verily I say unto thee, an evil genius hath long pursued me. She hath followed closely my footsteps, that every thread and fibre of my raiment is familiar to her eye. And if in pursuit of me, she should gaze upon this relic in the solitary fastness of the mountains, she will at once recognize it, and believing me to have been torn and destroyed by wild beasts, she will retrace her steps, and thus I will escape her. I go hence, dear friends, unto California, where it has been prophesied that thy servant will find labor and its reward. I go among the Gentiles, and their offerings of gold and silver will be acceptable unto me; and if they live not afterwards, peradventure they may find treasures in Heaven!

Saturday, 18th. Came to the Ice Springs, which certainly are remarkable. The ground was covered with alkali, but in cutting through a wet grassy strip, we came to solid ice, which was eagerly gathered and eaten by our delighted and astonished selves. Some doubted its being ice,--but it looked like ice, smelt like ice, tasted like ice, felt like ice, and--I believe it was ice.

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Sunday, 19th. Did not arise as early as usual--gave my head a chance to settle back again, as my neck had been stretched to see if the sun was up beyond the mountains.—Mrs. G. gave me some lacteal fluid for our decoction of Java, which was not bad to take, at all, at all. Done up our tent work. I shampooed Mrs. C.'s head; and then she made an attack on mine, but of the loss of life I will say nothing. Young Harry Cane gave us a call, to the utter demolition of our tent, notwithstanding the herculean efforts made by Mrs. C. and myself to hold it up: also our wagon became top-heavy and unsteady, and finally went over--case why?--one wheel was soaking in the river. A few rain-drops fell, and the wind blew Mrs. C. and myself over to Mrs. G.'s tent, but they talked so much that I had to leave, ahem! being no talker myself, ahem! ahem!!. Supper is about to be announced; and after observing the occupations and employments of the company through the day, I deem it my duty to read them this commandment, written by somebody some time since, to wit: "Thou shalt not remember what thy friends do at home on the Sabbath day; lest the remembrance may not compare favorably with what thou doest. Six days thou mayst ride or walk, or take care of thy horses, or pick all thy body can stand under; but the other day is Sunday, when thou shalt wash all thy dirty shirts, darn all thy stockings, tap all thy boots, mend all thy clothing, chop thy wood, make up and bake thy bread, and boil thy pork and beans, that thou mayst not be weary when thou startest on thy long journey. For in six day's labor thou canst not work enough to wear out thy body in two years, but if thou workest hard on Sunday also, thou canst do it in six months; and thou and thy son and thy daughter, thy male friend and thy female friend, thy morals and thy consciences be none the better for it, but reproach thee; shouldst thou ever return with thy worn-out body to thy kindred's fireside, and thou strive to justify thyself, bemuse the trader and the black-smith, the carpenter and the merchant, the tailors, Jews, and buccaneers defy God and civilization, by keeping not the Sabbath day, and wish not for a day of rest, such as memory, youth and home made hallowed."

After tea we rode on horseback to witness the setting of the sun from the mountains.--We followed the road for some distance, than struck off across the valley, and ascended the bluffs. We went up until we reached the highest point; where we had a magnificent view of mountain, stream and valley. The Wind River mountains--the highest peak having been climbed by Fremont, and where he placed a flag,--lay far off in the distance, with hills and valleys intervening, while perpetual snows, like a mantle enwrapt them, were now gilded by the sun's setting rays. The Sweet Water flows through the flat below us in many a graceful curve, looking like a huge serpentine silver thread in the rich emerald green. Before us, behind us, all around us, are mountains piled on mountains; some rocky and rugged, some smooth as a newly shaven lawn, some covered with sand and sage-brush, others grassy and pebbly, with piles of stones heaped together, as though the Red man had had his council or beacon light on the eminence. Soon we reached a peak that brings us in view of the camping-ground, far, far below us, with its bright fires gleaming in the gathering twilight, and towards which we directed our horses. Returned to camp feeling in better spirits, for during the day I felt somewhat sad, although I strove to throw off all melancholy feelings, and give no entertainment to the little imps of azure hue. Feeling grateful for my ride, for the opportunity of seeing so much of this wide world, for all the good things of this earth that I enjoy--for friends, kind friends,--I prepared to retire to rest. I am going to a far-off land among strangers of different habits from my own friends, yet I trust the old friend-ships will ever remain fresh to gladden my weary hours. A sudden blaze of kindness may, by a single blast of coldness be extinguished, but that fondness which length of time has connected with many circumstances and occasions, though it may be for a while suppressed by disgust or resentment, with or without a cause, is hourly revived by accidental recollections. To those who have lived long together, every thing heard, and every thing seen recalls some pleasure communicated, or some benefit conferred, some petty quarrel or some slight endearment. Esteem of great powers, or amiable qualities newly discovered, may embroider a day or a week, but a friendship of years is interwoven with the texture of life. What is this life but a sorry, tiresome round, a circle of repeated vanities. All is empty appearance, or vain labor, or painful vexation. The ways of man are at his own disposal, but all his goings are ordered by God; all events are in His hands, and He only canst succeed or disappoint his hopes.--If He blow on his designs, they are forever blasted; if He blesses them, nothing can hinder their success; therefore I apply myself to Him, for not all created power can assist me without Him.

Monday, 20th. Passed over Rocky Ridge, nine miles in length. Saw three lakes very near each other, but alkaline; so man nor beast could not refresh themselves therefrom. In the margin of the water were three beautiful water fowls, with long bills, orange-colored heads, white bodies, black and white striped wings, and webbed feet. Camped on Strawberry Creek. Snow on a mountain near the tent--had a panful.

Tuesday, 21st. We feel very cold, and are bundled up in our winter wraps nearly all of the time, although it is the latter part of June. Passed through a stream that was running under a snow bank. Had the ague again.

Wednesday, 22d. Lunched at the Pacific Springs. The blacksmith shop was not "mit in," but out of doors, where the smithy was very busy setting tire at $4.00, and shoeing oxen. It was very wet around the springs and in the flat, where the horses and cattle were mired, and had to be helped out, so we moved on two miles further, and pitched the tents. This morning we went through the South Pass and over the summit of the Rocky Mountains--now we are in Utah Territory. Had a "right smart" shower, "I reckon." Two miles from us is the place of the Mountain Meadow Massacre.

Thursday, 23d. Roads quite level. Crossed Little Sandy river. Cut me out a pair of gauntlets from an anti-lope's hide purchased at a trading post. Camped on Big Sandy. Fine scene--river winding between steep rocky banks, where we gathered wild roses and other beautiful flowers. Grass will be scarce for a hundred miles. Disliked to make beds in the deep sand, for fear some of the ants and uncles might crawl into our ears, and mouths also, if we should chance to sleep with them open.

Friday, 24th. Went down the river some distance, lunched, gave the horses a chance to feed; and then pre-pared to ford the river at an old fording place, as we took an old road after we left Pacific Springs, having been told that we would find better feed and water.--There was quite an interesting time, previous to our entering the rapid flowing stream--men riding across on horseback so as to find the best place; trunks, sugar, flour, &c. to be raised; and some of the lowest wagon boxes to be elevated. Mr. G.'s cattle were driven into the water, the little calf with them, but instead of going in a diagonal direction,--they went straight across and up a very steep bank; which is the way, I am told, cattle always do in fording streams. Mr. G., with his goods raised up on our table, attempted the feat, which was accomplished successfully, while the water ran through his wagon box. Mr. C. next heroically braved the flood, and landed his "best three-quarters" and myself safely on the other side. Mr. V. hitched a horse which a man rode, before the ox-teams, so as to prevent them from going straight across. At last all were safely across, and then we started on. Passed a grave eight feet long, on the stone were faintly engraved the initials of six names. Saw the places where forty Government wagons were burned, the stock and provisions taken, and the men permitted to go unhurt; in the other place 75 wagons were burned.--Camped on Big Sandy. Wind blowing very high, poor camping ground on the bluffs, thought we would camp below it, but found a dead ox near the edge of the water, and were gladly remaining on the hill. As all the horses and cattle had to be sent across the river get feed, Dr. B and Mr. G. thought they would camp on the other side.

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Nov. 6th, 1859. Lo and behold! Nellie, the "nonsensical," for the space of eighteen hours has tarried at the Cary House, where she hath enjoyed kindly cheer; and she would like to have her friends, and all her friends' friends stop here that they may enjoy comfortable quarters likewise. She fain would dwell in this delectable and active city of Placerville, but destiny leads her to the goodly, and, perchance, comely village of Greenwood; where she trusteth she will find sympathy and counsel, kindness and a welcome.

The minutes have run out of the future and into the past in quick succession, since she left the mountains, where for space of three months, she sojourned in the town of Indian Diggings. There did she meet with kindness. Friends she found who did everything so gently winning, because everything was so well done; and if they did nothing it was all the same. And some tall friends she had, too; who, when they stood up, if they stood one inch stood six feet. Some minded their own business; a habit which others approved and seemed fully to appreciate, and showed a commendable zeal to assist them in.

Sat. morn, the stage started, and with the expectation of having a rainy day, Nellie, "the Nonsensical" settled back as comfortable and motionless as the roughness of the roads would admit. There was but one passenger beside herself, but the time passed quickly away, notwithstanding the driver succeeded in keeping the coach right-side up, and out of the ruts, when an overthrow in the soft mud, would have been such an item to record in one's journal. We saw many men wielding picks--throwing them vigorously into the moist earth, while others were rocking an article ycleped a cradle, at which a man gazed with wide distended and protruding eyes. -- Celestials were bobbing around, whisking their long braids defiantly at the outside barbarians, at whom they glanced from their oblique optics. The Good Spirit withheld the rain, and it descended not until we entered the hubbuba of Hang-town. Tuesday morning she took a seat inside of the stage, but Chinamen, five in number, and one German having entered likewise, she was advised to take an outside seat with the driver, which she readily did, thus getting rid of the opium-eating, oblique-squinting, cigarette-smoking, Hong Kong talking, John Chinamen. The air was cool and fresh, the roads rather rough, yet by dint of tight holding, she maintained her elevated position in society. Dame Nature had recently washed her face, and looked bright and glittering as a dew drop, while the bushes laden with bright green leaves, and scarlet berries grew more lovely in the glistening sunbeams. After descending and ascending the long hills that made the horses puff and sweat, we approached the enterprising place called Georgetown--left said place at the hour of four in the morning, and reached Greenwood ere the busy people were awake.

Here will I faithfully try to discharge my duties to God, man, and the children in the school. As one of my amusements will be reading the Mountain Democrat, I hope therein to find letters from "Doeskins," for whose kind remembrance I am grateful. Perchance, I may write you from my new home, if Monsieur le Editeur is not tired of this "trash."—Hoping that prosperity's sun may brighten your pathway, that new subscribers may be added to your list, and old ones pay promptly, I stop to pause.

NONSENSICAL NELLIE.

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Saturday, 25th. Quite cool and windy. All the cattle, and teams, except one, came across the river very well. The quicksand gave way and one of the horses, having been recently ill, was weak and laid down in the water. He got up and went a short distance, and then laid down again, and would not get up, although J. jumped into the water and unhitched the traces; finally Mr. W. jumped from his horse and held the horse's head out of the water, while J. unhitched them, after the wagon tongue was broken; another span was attached to the wagon and drew it out. Forded the Big Sandy near a station. Roads sandy--wind blowing very hard. Saw curiously shaped hills or sand rocks, worn by the elements.--Observed a great many chains and irons belonging to wagons, left in the road; and oh! so many dead cattle with the hides dried fast to the bones, are lying on either side of us.--The air is so pure and clear that dead animals do not decompose very rapidly; we can see farther than we could in the States, and are often deceived in regard to distances. About 11 A.M. came to a hill where we met a man who seemed to be a runner for the Lower Ferry--there are three Ferries across Green River, a narrow, but deep and rapid stream. Dr. B. and Mr. C. rode down to the river to ascertain which was the best. After waiting a long time for them to return, we drove down to the Lower Ferry, so that the horses might have a drink, as they have had no water for 12 miles. At the other ferries, they could not carry us across until the next day, because the wind was blowing so hard. We went across at the Lower Ferry for fifty cents a wagon, and a "bit" a head for loose stock--Years ago they asked $8 a wagon. We have a delightful camping ground, but poor feed for the noble animals. Our wagons were driven under the shade of large Cottonwood trees.--There being an abundance of brush-heaps and logs, we built great fires, over which we swung the camp-kettles, containing water for those who are going to "wash." Seven more wagons are camped near us. A person on the opposite bluff looking down upon the swift rolling river, the trees, rosebushes, wagons, tents, people darting hither and thither--some baking, others washing, some lying down, and the rest forming circles around the large and numerous camp fires; while laughter and song pealed forth on the evening air, and busy hands were agitating bushes and handkerchiefs to keep vexatious intruders away;--and every thing gleaming in the bright blaze,--would indeed think it was a charming and romantic journey; nor would they think of the cares, hardships and privations of such a trip.

Sunday, 26th. Left with regret our last night's retreat, in search of grass. As all "flesh is grass," so grass is flesh to our tired animals. Met five hundred Snake Indians in single file, on their way to the station to make a treaty with another tribe--the Crows, I believe,--and also with the "Capitan at Washito," (the President at Washington.) Some talked with us, and seemed to understand our language better than any we have yet met. One old chief said--"Snakes and Americans," placing his arms expressively about his body. I asked him if they were good friends, to which he replied, "Yes, heap good friends." They had fine ponies, and to some were fastened their lodge poles which dragged on the ground. We heard that Horace Greely was expected in the stage to-day. After going 12 miles we camped on Green River again. Horses had to swim across. Some were not inclined to go over, even after Mr. Ford, the great forder, rode over on his horse, and showed them the way, making fun for the lookers on.

Monday, 27th. Passed a most beautiful mountain or rock, of layers of blue clay and yellow sand. It was magnificent, and looked like some Egyptian ruin, with its statuary and base-reliefs; or like a Turkish mosque, with its pinnacles and minarets. Came to a beautiful camping ground on Black Fork, among rosebushes in bloom, wild rye, good grass, and mosquitoes. Just before supper, a strong wind arose, blowing dust and confusion around. Frenchmen with squaw wives, living in lodges opposite of us.

Tuesday, 28th. Forded Black Fork, and Black Ham's Fork. Passed a station where whisky was plenty. Buckskin trowser-loons are worn a great deal; the price is $6 per pair, and said to be cool in summer and warm in winter. Reached Fort Bridger, a fine place, and contains some of the most beautiful streams flowing over rocky beds, that I ever saw.--Every thing looked neat and tidy. Four hundred soldiers here at present. Mr. C. exchanged some tea for butter, which was quite a treat. Emigrants are not allowed to camp within several miles of the fort. Our teams went on, and Mr. and Mrs. G. and myself remained to see the soldiers on drill. Saw officer Garland's wife, children and negro servants. The place .in only 1 1/2 years old, yet is improving. Camped six miles from the fort, at a spring of cold water. Mr. M. and family and Mr. C. dissolved companionship, so that Mr. C.'s company consist of five persons.

Wednesday, 29th. Road over very steep and rocky hills, which we walked down.--Snowdrops, flowering currant, columbine, larkspur and other flowers, growing in profusion. I am delighted with the scenery, which is more varied than that on the eastern side of the summit. We have entered Echo Canon, which is a narrow passage between two high ranges of mountains, and is the only entrance into Salt Lake City from this side, notwithstanding it is over hills, steep rocks, through a winding stream with rocky bed and steep banks, and along the side of the mountains, so that oftimes one thinks the wagon will upset into the ravine below. Came to the Soda Springs--water unpleasant to the taste. Passed high perpendicular rocky walls. Mosquitoes are almost unendurable. How I pity the horses that have no provision for fly time, when ours have long switch-abouts, and yet are unable to keep off the stinging insects; so I appoint myself chief mosquito-killer and fly-destroyer, and as a wand or sceptre, carry a long ox-gad, to the end of which is tied some small bushes, whereby I can disconcert, annoy, and peradventure, destroy many of said insects as they alight on the sides, necks and heads of the horses. Had some nice slap-jacks for supper, with butter and maple sugar on them, but the mosquitoes troubled us so that we could not enjoy them as much as we expected to.

Thursday, 30th. Met a great many Mormons going to the States, as they are now permitted by Government to leave the Valley. Large rocks or boulders of small stones cemented together by the road side. Perceived an arch of rocks on the mountain side.

Friday, July 1st. Met Government soldiers from Camp Floyd, forty miles from Salt Lake City, going to the States. There were two squads of mounted soldiers, 70 in a company, 48 wagons, each drawn by six animules, and in some were officers, and the children of the Mountain Meadow notoriety. I believe the soldiers must have thought that I was another Ophelia, all crazy and bedecked with flowers, having a cluster of rose-buds in my hair which was uncovered, as my sun-bonnet was full of flowers and tied up to the top of the wagon; another bunch in my belt; a lovely rose and its green leaves for a broach, which gave me as much happiness, and enhanced my beauty, ahem!--as much as if it had been Golconda's costliest gem. In my lap I held a brown pitcher in which was a little water and a great many flowers, and from my satchel at my feet, peeped many a fragrant blossom. Happy as a Queen on her throne, sat I on the wagon seat, and as dignified and gracefully as possible wielded I my sceptre, or fly-brusher. We do not see any dead cattle now, and have been told that Government lost 1000 head on their way to Fort Bridger, having been overtaken by a snow storm. At the station we saw 400 wagons standing around, and used for fences, fuel, &c.; unless they sell them at $75 per wagon--the original cost being $125.

Saturday, 2d. Fortifications on the top of a mountain, and in the valley, made by the Mormons to cut off the U.S. troops in their passage through the canon. Under-ground tents or houses. Beautiful cool springs, groves, and plants. Very warm and sultry. Commenced the ascent of a mountain four miles high, the roads part of the way in the bed of Weber river, which we cross nineteen times. Every one walked--I went as far as I could, and then sat down in the shade of the trees to rest. It was very warm, and I was so tired that I could not keep up with the horses, and I sat down by the way side, fearing that I should be left behind, when Dr. ---- came up and told me to drive his four-horse team, and ride in his wagon, which I gladly did, being very tired jumping from stone to stone, through gullies and deep sand, up hill on a sultry day. Supposed that when we got to the top of the hill we would have a good place to lunch, but alas! we had to commence the descent immediately down a very steep side, three miles long, to Brown's Creek. Ate our luncheon, and then went on to the base of the second steep hill, to feed our horses. I was so tired that I could not walk, so Mr. C. permitted me to ride horseback up, and then walk down the hill. At its base we rested, and then started on again. I rode the horse into camp, at the spring, seven miles from the City.

Sunday, July 3d. Went over very rough, sidling road--came to the top of a hill, and Great Salt Lake Valley is before us. It was about 10 o'clock A.M., when we entered the city. The place was very quiet; the gurgling of the streams as they rippled over their rocky beds, and the merry voices of children, were all the sounds that greeted our ears, except the rumbling of our wagon wheels, as we passed through the straight, clean streets, on this lovely Sabbath morn. It was a fine sight--mountains with snow-covered peaks, encircled the valley that nestled at their base, while the Lake afar off gleamed in the clear sunlight. The streams formed a net work through every street and garden, which last were filled with fruit trees, vegetables, &c., and we poor, homeless mortals looked with delight on signs of civilization again.--Some of the houses are very small, others large two stories, and all made out of adobes or unburnt brick dried in the sun, of a bright drab color. The Court House with its glittering dome, the long line of stores, &c., the Tabernacle within a wall 18 feet high, enclosing ten acres, where they purpose building a larger Tabernacle; President Brigham's dwelling, enclosed in a stone wall with arched gateways; Gov. Cumming's large house, and the arsenal on the hill side, look finely.--Brigham's own residence is a large, fine shaped, white stuccoed house with green blinds, a cupola surmounted by a beehive, (which seems to be a favorite emblem) and a flag staff; a couchant lion over the balcony, and an eagle with spread wings over the gateway. We drove to the Post Office, but it was not open. Then we stopped in Union Square, pitched the tents on the sidewalk and bought grass for the horses. I do not feel well after my tiresome walk yesterday. We were too late to hear Brigham preach. The women wear no hoops, or late fashioned bonnets, but clothes that they probably brought from the States 8 or 10 years ago. The women seem to be coarser, and more ignorant than the men. Calico is 30 cts. per yard; sugar, 65 cts per lb; bacon, 50 cts; tea $3; flour, $6 per cwt. A long cream-colored gothic house was the residence of his wives--his first wife lived in a large house formerly known as the Deseret Store, enclosed in the same wall that surrounded his. We were told that he had seventy wives.

Monday, July 4th. Awakened at daylight by the firing of the cannon. Ate bread and milk for breakfast, as we have no wood.--Wrote a letter home, but received none, as we expected. Some noise by a brass band and martial music. Two and three persons riding on one mule. Rather a dull Fourth to us.—Left in the afternoon. Came to the Hot Springs, where a man was building a bathing house; but like the Dutchman who said, "Shon! Shon! drife on! hell bees shust two miles from here,"--we drove on and camped in a man's yard, in front of his house, as we had the horses pastured at a bit per head.--High wind, slight sprinkle.

Tuesday, 5th. Went through some bad places, owing to the river rising. Stopped at noon at a farm where we had the horses pastured for 8 cts. a head. Spent the afternoon in looking over our things and packing them in carpet-sacks, &c., as Mrs. C. says we must throw away our trunks and every article not needed so as to lighten the loads. Gave to a poor woman who had lived ten years in that lonely place, without having any fruit of any kind, my trunk, band-box, plaid merino morning wrapper--which I was sorry to part with, quilted skirt, sandals, and some dried peaches. It seems very hard to have to throw away any thing, after a person has left almost every thing they have when they first start.

Wednesday, 6th. Horses mired three times. Forded Weaver river--water ran into the wagon boxes. . Camped near the Prairie House. Three wives of one man, in a wagon with peas, beets, milk and butter, came down to our camp, to exchange them for sugar, tea, or coffee. Mr. C. sold the big tent, molasses and other things.

Friday, 8th. Rained quite hard, beat in the wagon and wet us. As $3 1/2 for a wagon, $1 for a saddle horse and 25 cts. for loose stock was charged at the ferry, the men concluded to ferry themselves across Bear river. When we reached the river we found a large company preparing to cross. They had stakes driven in each bank, a wagon-box caulked, ropes fastened at each end, and men on either bank to draw the loaded box across and back again. We were going to cross by moonlight, if it had not rained.

Saturday, 9th. Very cold and rainy. All the wood we have are three logs brought from a deserted house three miles off. Mr. C. thought he could send his wagon over without taking them off the wheels as did the others, notwithstanding he was told it would upset, and upset it did, with all our clothing and my bed in it. Our big tent gone, piles of wet clothes, a hard rain pouring down, the clothes we have on wet, makes things seem a little blue. At last they draw the womanites over, who sit in the bottom of the box trying to pinch holes in the side of it, and as the boat could not reach the shore, the men carried us over the water and up the steep, slippery hill.—Had great difficulty in getting the horses over. The rain stopped for awhile. Mrs. C. and I rinsed out the wet clothes and hung them on the ropes stretched from wagon to wagon.--Showers every little while. At last tired and wet, we went into wet beds, while the rain poured in torrents all night. I was taken violently ill during the night.

Monday, 11th. Started for Malad Creek, three miles off: had to ford it. Fixed a log across the stream which was one rod wide and very deep. Took the precaution to carry the sugar, flour, &c., across the foot bridge. The horses were sent across, then a rope was tied to the wagon tongues and hitched to the horses,--thus the wagons were drawn through the mire and water. All safely across. I am very sick. Lunched at Warm Springs. Had my bed made in the wagon. Had to drive 81 miles to Hensell's Springs, before we can get water. Stopped at 2 o'clock A.M.

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NELLIE'S JOURNAL

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Friday, 15th. Noticed City Rocks at the junction of the Fort Hall route. Camped on Goose Creek. Saturday and Sunday camped four miles this side of Rock Springs. The boys gathered some wild currants on the margin of the streams; Mrs. C. made some pies, of which I ate a piece--the only thing that I had eaten that tasted good for some time.

Monday, 18th. We camped in Thousand Spring Valley.

Tuesday, 19th. Very warm and dusty.--Passed a long train of ox-teams; five women walking, one barefooted and the rest nearly so; while all were strong and robust looking, and well fitted to endure the hardships of such a trip. We were very, very thirsty before we came to any water, and disappointed we were in finding it a muddy and alkaline stream.--Soon came to the wells near the head of Mary's or Humboldt river. We took the left hand road next to the mountains, where we have good mountain grass for the horses; and cold, pure water from the snow-topped mountains; while the other two roads pass through the valley, where the grass and water is alkaline, and sloughs and mud-holes are numerous.—Camped after sun-down on a beautiful stream, the water flowing over rocks in miniature cascades. Devoured our pancakes by the light of the moon.

Wednesday, 20th. Very dusty and warm. Such lovely mountain torrents! perfect beauties! How I wish I owned one dashing and splashing through a nice little farm. Lunched in a grove on the banks of one of the finest streams I ever saw, where the water rushed and gurgled over rocks, trees, and logs; reminding me of "the way the water comes down at Lodore." The banks were quite steep, but in one place good Dame Nature had formed steps of the roots of a gnarly tree, whereby we descended to the brink of the foaming stream, where we held the butter-can in the water to harden its oily contents. After showering one another's heads, and arranging our toilets, we ate our plain and humble fare with great relish, meanwhile quaffing the sparkling fluid that far excels the "sham-pagne" that brings on "real-pain." A large stone overhung the bank, on which I clambered to arrange the beautiful flowers I had gathered, and to watch the movements of a speckled silvery trout that gracefully glided in the quiet waters of a deep basin; while ever and anon I jot down a few words in this old Journal.—Camped on a hill near an icy-cold spring.--Wind blowing hard and cold. Another of the Shoshones came to our tent. They spring up, as if by magic, from behind some sage-brush; startling one by their sudden appearance.—They do not spend much time in making an elaborate toilet; and truly might, with Miss Flora McFlimsy, exclaim that "they have nothing to wear!"—their wardrobe being so scantily supplied. They seem to wander about alone; no squaws or mohalas are visible, which is, I am told, a suspicious sign. They gain their living by begging from the emigrants, and searching among the bushes for sage squirrels or gophers, which they punch out of their hole with a long stick, the catch and kill them, and stick their heads under the string or belt around their waist. One Indian had fifteen thus suspended from his girdle, and offered me one, saying it was "mucha wane." These Indians are short in stature, big-headed, long-haired, frizzle-pated, inferior looking beings.

Thursday, 21st. Very cool morning. The Indian came back before breakfast, having been well pleased with his hearty supper obtained from us, and having been loth to leave the camp last night, when sent away. He had amused himself by examining articles, although we watched him closely. Finally he crossed the brook and was intent on pulling an old lantern to pieces, but when he saw H. coming rapidly towards him, he concealed something in the dirt and grass at his feet.--H. stooped down, felt in Shoshone's belt, then in the dirt, and succeeded in finding his poignard which the Indian had taken from his coat pocket. Seizing the dirk, and the Indian tomahawk at the same time, he brandished the weapons in the air, talking very excitedly the while, so that the red man cowered with fright, groveling in the dust like a whipped cur,--while we lookers-on expected to see him spring up with vengeance in his fist and a club in his eyes, and attack the brave and heroic Joseph, who was gnashing his teeth and uttering big words very rapidly; but the encounter resulted in Joe going back to the wagons, and the Indian demurely scratching his pate and going down the hill, undoubtedly wondering whether Joe was in earnest, and if he intended to keep the tomahawk. Joe left it, however, near the camp fire, knowing the Indian would come back as soon as we were gone, to pick up crumbs, bones, &c., as they always do. Notice put up that a packer was robbed of every thing but his pants.--Stopped at a stream which seems to be the last for some distance, as the country appears very barren before us.

Friday, 22d. Bought of the Indians some fresh antelope meat, for five basins of flour; also some currants for bread. Slight sprinkle--red, angry clouds in the west. Heard of the man who was shot in his back with an arrow by Indians--he ran a mile before he came in sight of his train, then extricated the arrow and fainted. We heard of the accidental discharge of a gun breaking the ankle of a man who suffers such excruciating pain, that his groans can be heard a great distance, and he begs to be left by the road-side. We went down some of the steepest mountains that we have yet descended. We went running down at a break-neck speed, while the men locked the wheels, tied ropes to the hind end of the wagons and held back, sliding along on the ground, and the poor horses sliding, and sitting on their haunches half of the time; making sport for the womanites at the base of the hill. Not long since a Government wagon went end over end down this hill.

Noon.--Very steep jump-off in the creek we last passed through. We were some distance from it, when we saw B. riding very fast on horseback. Mr. C. goes back expecting to find one of the baggage-wagons broken; and we patiently await the coming of the provision trunk, that we may eat and be comforted. Our worst fears are realized. One of the forward wheels was broken in going down the jump-off, for Sam, (one of the horses,) stumbled and fell on his knees, thus causing the spokes of the wheel to break. After putting in new spokes and setting the tire, the wagon was drawn up where we were; and we partook of some refreshment. I assist in harnessing and unharnessing the horses, and leading them to water. Hard afternoon's travel up and down steep, high hills. All very tired. Wagon wheel broke again on the top of a rocky hill.

Sunday, 24th. My brother is twenty-one years old to-day. Was obliged to do my washing and mending on the Holy Sabbath day, as we start at sunrise and travel until sunset, averaging twenty-six or more miles a day.

Monday, 25th. Saw sixteen Indians and their ponies in a circle around the stove. At half past ten o'clock reached Gravelly Ford, and the long-dreaded Humboldt for the first time. Camped at night on the river. Mosquitoes very bad--make smokes or "smudges" to drive them away, but no rest for us all night. Oh! Mosquitoes! Why tormentest thou us?--Ten Government wagons and twenty-four horsemen camped near us. They had been to protect from the Indians some emigrants on their way to Oregon. They gave us agreeable information that we would find the dust and mosquitoes worse until we left the river; 300 miles to go yet--Oh! dear!

Tuesday, 26th. The water in the river is warm and unpleasant. Caught a few small fish at noon, and found some very ripe currants.

Wednesday, 27th. The mosquitoes annoy us this morning, notwithstanding they would not permit us to eat our suppers, which we succeeded in getting between the thwacks, brushing, and generally fighting of the vexatious intruders. Have to go twenty miles before we come to water again. Filled the kegs with water. Stopped on the river--Mr. and Mrs. C. and I loaded ourselves with canteens, tea-kettle and coffee-pot, and walked three-fourths of a mile up to the mountain where the station was, and got some spring-water. Horace Greely passed here this morning. The man that has charge of this station receives $1200 per year and "found." (I could have been a mountaineer's bride.) We staid in the mountains until we thought the "stingers" had left the camp; but found them thick as ever, so we made twenty fires, and sat in the smoke thereof, until we were nearly likened unto smoked beef. The horses were nearly frantic, and rushed wildly about, until the night guard made fires around, when the horses approached and quietly stood in the smoke. Could not sleep, although I had my sun-bonnet on, and a large silk handkerchief pinned closely down over my face, boots and gauntlets on, and closely wrapped in the blankets; yet on the morrow was looking as though I had the measles from the bites of our patience-trying, test of endurance annoyers.

Thursday, 28th. We have to go twenty miles to the next station before we can get feed or water. The Pi-Utes seem to be intelligent, industrious and tidy Indians. One of them wanted to trade a penny for one of Joe's shirts, could not do it; so came to me to make a trade--unsuccessful. Borrowed a newspaper dated May 25th, and read by the light of the camp-fire--first one that we have had since May 16th.

Friday, 29th. Stopped at a station to make inquiries--flour thirty-five cents a pound. A few nights ago at one of the stations they asked $80 per hundred. We gave flour to the horses as the water and feed are so poor.

Sunday, 31. Too many buzzers stinging and humming to admit of our sleeping. The guard went to sleep, I presume, so the horses wandered up to the wagons and made an attack on the table where the dishes were, and the newly mixed bread for the morning's bakery. Rattle-de-bang goes some of the tin ware, so I arm myself with a whip and send them off.--Heavy sand. I drive the horses hitched to the "passenger-wagon." Stopped at a trading post--the proprietor invited Mrs. C. and myself to come in and get some lemonade and ice-water, which we gladly did, and were refreshed thereby. The blades of grass are covered with small particles of salt.

Bah! this is a monotonous, barren country hereabouts. I sigh for scenes such as we have passed through, where we encountered a sharp hill for several rods,--now a rugged knoll, and now a gulch, through with the spring rains and melting snows have been tearing for weeks, and at sight of which even your well-bred donkey starts, or halts outright; now a lively spring or a miniature torrent gushes madly out from some rocky fissure at the way-side, and your jaded beasts thrust their heads into the cool waters "with a will." Now we see no shrubbery. The banks of the Humboldt are skirted by a line of willows and rushes; the air is clear, the brown, rugged mountains loom up in solemn grandeur, and the sunsets are lovely, unpaintable and indescribable.

Friday, 5th. Reached the station twenty-five miles from the last, at sunrise. Beheld the Sink, where the Lake seems to empty into a short crooked stream, that sinks into the ground, having no visible outlet. A barren place--no feed or fuel. Stopped on the bank of the lesser stream, where many were encamped. Mr. C. gave an Indian two white shirts, and a pair of overalls for cutting grass. A great number of Indians camped on the bluffs, where they are grinding seeds between stones for winter use. The Pi-Utahs do not beg as do the other Indians, and are called very good. We hear of a great many depredations committed by the Shoshones on the emigrants only a little way behind us. We are all very tired and sleepy; yet have to be busy cooking and preparing to cross the desert. The water is very disagreeable. Our table does not present a great variety of food now. Used up the last of the flour for pancakes last night. One loaf of bread left. Bacon and beans gone--are now cooking the last of the dried apples. When we get across the desert, can purchase food.

At 12 o'clock, M., started to cross the long-talked-of, and much-dreaded desert, after lightening the loads as much as possible. Favorable time--a good strong wind blowing, and the road quite good. Crossed an alkaline stream where a dog died in fifteen minutes after drinking of the water. Around it, I counted thirty-nine dead oxen. Before night the wind blew very high and cool, so that we had to put on our heavy shawls and coats; and the road being better than we expected, the horses did not suffer as much as we thought they would. About 9 o'clock we reached the station, 23 miles from the sink, and which has been recently built. Knowing that the wells were not empty that day, we had previously given the horses the water that we had in kegs, which we used for fire wood, as there was none around here. Paid two bits a head for the stock, and had all the water the horses wanted, and for our cooking. Bought flour and hay for the horses; and bacon at 50 cents per pound. While we were drinking our tea and eating our bacon and bread, the station-keeper gave a can of oysters, and a box of sardines to Mrs. W. to be divided among the ladies. Oh shade of liberality! Oh! magnanimity forgotten! She selfishly took them to her own wagon, and gave Mrs. C. and myself "nary one." Moving onward at 11 o'clock, 17 miles to go.

Saturday, 6th. The last ten miles were the worst. The men walked, and the women rode horseback. The sand was very coarse, heavy and deep; and the horses very, very tired--"e'enamost tuckered out;" yet by stopping every few feet and letting the horses puff, we were able to reach the station on Carson river before the sun had heated the sand. Some neglect starting from the Sink early enough, consequently they are out on the desert the next morning in the heat of the sun, and thus tire out their stock, and lose many head.--More stock die by being allowed to rush down to the river and drink to excess, and eat plentifully of the new grass. Poor creatures! it would be a difficult thing to check or restrain them from so doing, after the faithful performance of such hard labor on a short allowance of miserable feed and water. Horses and oxen! Henceforth do I reverence thee! Noble art thou; patient in the endurance of long-suffering. Willing and faithful art thou, useful animals!

We had the extreme felicity of sitting on a chair in a house, and watching two women prepare breakfast. The price of each meal was $1--biscuits, 3 bits a pound. We bought some potatoes at twenty cents a pound, onions at two bits, and butter at one dollar a pound. Bought hay for the horses. Had excellent water from a well. At dusk, we started to go to an excellent camping ground two miles off. Camped by the light of the moon, in a beautiful place.

Sunday, 7th. Pulled the wagons under the shade of some large trees, which were very refreshing to our sight. Mrs. C. and I washed our wagon, so that it looked like a new one. Then we went round the bend of the river, washed the dust out of our hair, bathed, washed our clothes, waded into the water, and was fording the river where it was kn-- "curtchybender" deep, and was about half way across, when looking up we espied a stranger on horseback on the opposite bank, waiting for us to come across, so that he could ford the stream because the bank were not steep there. He seemed to be amused at our appearance, which undoubtedly, was very much unlike that of a mermaid or water-nymph;--hair hanging down our backs, all dripping; over one arm was thrown our wet clothes, and the right hands held up our skirt-i-coats. We are all tired and worn out. We found Rag Town to consist of the station, one finished, and one unfinished log house, and a blacksmith shop. The stage and an extra passed us this evening.

Monday, 8th. A lovely morning. I regret to leave this charming camping ground. We have very cool nights, and early this morning it was so chilly, that Mr. K. made a fire in a fire-place formed in the side of a tree, which cracked and blazed, and sent forth a cheerful heat. How anxious I am to hear from the dear ones at home.

"Long parting from the hearts we love Will shadow o'er the brightest face; And happy they who part and prove Affection changes not with place. A sad farewell is warmly dear, But something dearer may be found To dwell on lips that are sincere, And lurk in bosoms closely bound. The pressing hand, the steadfast sigh, Are both less earnest than the boon Which fervently, the last fond sigh Begs in the hopeful words, 'write soon.' 'Write soon!' oh! sweet request of truth! How tenderly its accents come.'

Lunched this noon under the grateful shade of a large cottonwood tree. I am sitting on a bank, thinking of home and friends. God has been very merciful to us, leading us safely over our perilous and tiresome way. We thank thee! We bless thee, oh my God! In padding over a sand bluff, I went to see some very strange rocks that seemed like huge bones of a mammoth animal covered on one side with red, yellow, and green moss, forming an embroidery of hieroglyphics. We stopped in a beautiful grove, but were driven away by offensive odors. It is strange that people let their horses die in good camping places, by the side of, or in the road, to sicken and disgust emigrants, who happen to come after them.

Tuesday, 9th. Heavy sand and no water for eight miles. Very warm. Ate our luncheon in a delightful place, where the grass was so high and plenty, it made the horses laugh.--The river is low, running over a sandy bed. The low banks are fringed with willows that droop their pencile boughs over the water, under which we indulge in our noon-tide siesta. Large cottonwood trees extend their wide-spreading branches, like gigantic arms, as if to welcome us to their shade; and we nestle lovingly up to their feet, and whisper how grateful is their shadow, to us, poor, sunburnt, weary travelers. The trees bow down their heads, and gently murmur, "Repose ye here! I will stretch forth mine arms as a canopy to shield thee from the burning rays of the noon-day's sun! I will beckon unto zephyr to come and fan thy burning brow; and the rustling music of my leaves shall lull thee to sleep.—Rest thee awhile, I pray!" Beautiful trees and shrubs! thou art indeed doubly dear, since so many miles of dreary waste has been o'erpassed.

This forenoon our road lay along the side of hills, nearly overhanging the river in some places; or being very narrow, we were just separated from the water by a line of willows, with rosebushes and small trees peeping out, laden with their bright scarlet berries. We watered the horses in a lovely grove, where I was beside myself with delight. Now, dear friends do not think that this is a charming and much-to-be-desired country at present.--Remember that I fall in love with every bird, flower and stream. I am delighted with, and derive pleasure from very many things, that the rest of our company see nothing of interest in. By-the-way, we ate up a pair of Joe's woolen pants for supper. Don't laugh, and make wry faces at what may seem to you an unpalatable dish. You, perhaps, may eat something worse than pants if you cross the plains. Perhaps you wish to know how said dish was cooked. Well, it was picked in small bits, and treated in the same way as if it was codfish, instead of a chub bought at the rate of fifty cents a fish--one fish for a pair of pants. We are on short allowance. There are many who are worse off than we are, and some distance from the stations.

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NELLIE'S JOURNAL

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Wednesday, 10th As Mr. H. and Joe gave us the fish to cook, and supped with us last night, this morning we cooked the last of their dried beef, and they partook of our bread and tea. Purchased at a station 10 pounds of flour, at 17 1/2 cents per pound, 5 pounds of fresh pork at two bits a pound, and one pound of butter at six bits. Had warm biscuits and butter for dinner. Reached China Town which was composed of six houses and about thirty Chinamen. Camped at the foot of a mountain, on the side of which were two ditches to convey water from the river to Gold Canyon, three miles and a half.

Thursday, 11th. Stopped at Carson City.--It is a new place, having eight houses, and two in course of erection. Maj. Ormsby and wife, and Dr. King and his wife called on us.--The noise at a billiard saloon disturbed us nearly all night. I had Sacramento and San Francisco papers given to me which spoke of Horace Greely's reception. The papers speak of sporting matches on the Sabbath. I am afraid that there is not as high a moral tone pervading communities here as in the Northern States. "Set a watch, O Lord, before my mouth; keep the door of my lips. Incline not my heart to any evil thing, to practice wicked works with them that work iniquity. Teach me to do thy will; for thou art my God, thy spirit is good; lead me into the land of righteousness. The Lord preserveth the strangers, He relieveth the fatherless."

Friday noon,--Mr. K. and son, and Mr. B. concluded to go the Truckee route to Forest City Diggings.--We passed through Genoa, a very pleasant place. Stopped near a house where we bought hay, and milk at a bit a quart.

Saturday, 13th. This morning Theodore F. and others overtook us. Camped near the mouth of Woodford's Canon. The wind blew very hard through the night, tent was blown over, and wagon nearly upset.

Sunday, 14th. Travel to-day in order to get good feed for the horses; so purpose going to Hope Valley, seven miles from here. Very anxious to get through the Canon, as we are told that is the worst part of our road over the Sierra Nevadas. In slipping off my hoops and long skirt, that I might don my bloomers, and climb with more ease, my foot slipped on a rock, and nearly sprained my ankle. Undoubtedly you have often heard of the rocks, and how nearly impassable this road was in '49, and how much Government has done towards removing obstructions and smoothing the rough ways for the Stage. In this canon I beheld scenery that made me clap my hands, and cry--Magnificent! Sublime! Indescribable! ! Oh! that I could wield the pen of a ready writer, or the tongue of a ready speaker, or the pencil of an accurate artist, what glowing descriptions would I give of all this loveliness in its primitive, unbroken grandeur.

We reached Hope Valley about 2 o'clock, completely tired out with walking, and riding over the rough roads. Drove near the mountains to get feed for the horses--had to dig a hole in the miry, wet ground to get water.--Entirely surrounded by mountains, on the top of which is snow. Very cool evening--had a log fire to sit by.

Monday, 15th. Mr. Burton & Co. left for Sacramento, leaving behind one wagon, and men to take care of 250 head of cattle. Commenced washing our clothes. After tea, Theodore F. told me that he had a chance to go to Placerville, as there was a young man with a four-horse team going to San Francisco. As Mr. C. had to purchase all the provision now, and was going to remain in the Valley to recruit his stock, he advised us to go. Accordingly, I packed up my things as well as I could, in my large carpet sack and a basket, (having thrown my trunk away,) and was ready to start in the morning. Very cold night--ice half an inch thick.

Tuesday, 16th. Mrs. C. gave me $5. Left old friends and acquaintances to go among strangers. Mounted up, and took a place on a high spring-seat of a high boxed wagon.--Saw a lake up in the mountains, which were covered with huge rocks, heavy pine timber, and beautiful flowers. Went "downhill" for a great distance. Watered the horses at a beautiful stream in Lake Valley--had the road pointed out to me, which looked like a white thread stretched diagonally from the base to the summit of a steep mountain. There is only room for one wagon up a grade road two miles in length; and so very narrow, and winds along a mountain so precipitous, that one instinctively manifests a preference for the inner track. Being fearful that I should grow dizzy, I descended from my [lofty] position and sat in the bottom of the wagon. When about half way up, I glanced into the depths below. There lay the secluded valley, a murmuring stream, grotesque rocks, splendid forests of dark green pine with rich brown trunks, rearing their lofty heads heaven-ward, cattle seemingly no larger than pigs, were grazing below; and the bright sunlight was gilding everything in its changeful beams. It was a magnificent panorama--above, around, below us, were scenes stretched out to view that made us wild with delight. Up we went until we came to a place where two days previous, an ox team had been precipitated below by the earth giving way. Notwithstanding the road had been repaired, I was timid and walked some distance. Before we reached the summit we had a view of Clear or Silver Lake up amid the mountain peaks, and a panorama burst upon our view, and which every one who sees it, will remember as an object of sublime grandeur. Soon we reached the summit, and after giving a backward glance, and mentally thanking God for our preservation, we pass over a level tract, and then commence the descent of the mountains that are one hundred miles across, from base to base. How delightful to ride in the shadows of the lofty trees, the light green moss on the north side of the boughs and trunks, contrasting beautifully with the dark green foliage.

We had an agreeable ride, chiefly through underwood interspersed with the manzanita bush, and through chapparal, a favorite resort of bears, though we saw no evidence of Bruin's proximity. But our prospective resting place was farther down. Pursuing our course in that direction, we entered a magnificent forest of noble oaks, intermingled with pine and fir; the luxuriant growth of underwood rivaling the former in beauty and variety. Descending to a lovely valley, we stopped at the station where we anticipated a novel pleasure in sitting down to a table, and sleeping on a bedstead again. We were somewhat disappointed in our accommodations, yet here we halted for the night; and "each of us, overwhelmed by the grandeur of the scenery we had passed, as well as satisfied with the exercise of the day, were glad to stretch our wearied limbs upon" a bed.

Wednesday, 17th. We enjoyed an unbroken rest, and started early, anticipating a pleasant ride. I know not that one would ever tire of the grandeur of the lofty peaks, and the beauty of the green valleys, with their translucent streams. We soon came to another grade road, thirty miles in length, even and excellent, winding around the sides of the hills, now at the top, now at the bottom of steep mountains, with scenes ever-changing ever-beautiful presented to our view. "The road over the Sierra Nevada is destined yet to be one of the main routes of the tourist. It has been thought of principally as the dusty, toilsome way of the immigrant," Government has done much towards improving it, and the road is as fine as travelers could wish. It winds along near the South Fork of the American River, sometimes rising to hundreds of feet above the river, and then descending to a level with the stream. On the opposite side, the mountains are ever in view, lifting up their rounded forms in great mounds. To the left there is one rock which we could not help greeting with a burst of admiration. It is a cone of granite rising from 500 to 800 feet from its base, terminating in two or three spires. It stands entirely isolated, rising at a rough guess, 1200 feet above the road. This new road reaches to Slippery Ford, where commences some rough traveling. There is a fine bridge across the stream now. Here the two branches of the South Fork come shooting down over the smooth granite. We found ourselves in an amphitheatre of the grandest mountains. The great granite masses rose above us forming a scene of grandeur seldom surpassed. One of these masses looked like a huge boulder towering half a mile above us, with here and there a large solitary pine growing out of its naked side. No soil, nothing but smooth white rock and solitary tree could be seen. We soon came to Brockliss' Bridge. The new bridge is nearly ready for use. It is a fine structure, far above the swift current. When this is thrown open, the ascent on the other side of the river will be by a very easy and beautiful grade. At present on the old road there is a steep stony pitch to go up that is really formidable. Teams are sometimes delayed here half a day waiting for others to get over this pitch of about thirty rods in length. We saw several of the largest kind of six-horse freight wagons. Did you ever see a great exhibition of muscular power? The operation of "doubling up" was effected, and then the twelve powerful animals, well fed and full of strength, laid their bellies to the earth, and rounded out every muscle of the body in the mighty draught. The ponderous wagon gave a groan, but after a little concluded it had better yield, and roll up. Theodore and I sat down on a log on the top of the hill, and waited for the wagon to come up, then on we went over a rough road, and dustier than ever. We stopped for the night at Sportsman hall. My face and arms smarted badly from being sun-burnt, and my hands and arms were aching from holding on so tight as we jolted along.

Thursday, Aug. 18th. Soon come to mining grounds. We are somewhat disappointed in the appearance of the City of' Placerville formerly known as Hangtown. We stopped at the Cary House, a fine three story brick building. Theodore is going to his sister's, at Michigan Bar, so he bids me adieu; and met a familiar face have I seen since then. Well, I cannot sit idly, although I am travel worn and weary. Having made my situation know to Mr. Cary, a kind, benevolent man, he introduced me to Dr. Herrick, Superintendent of Public Schools, to whom I stated my desire to obtain a school, or employment immediately. After passing through the "ordeal," I received a certificate and concluded to go to Indian Diggings where there was a vacancy.

Friday, 19th. Mr. Cary did not charge me for my stay in his house, and kindly and generously bade me return if I could not obtain immediate employment. After purchasing a trunk, I started on my way, rejoicing; and desiring blessing to descend on the head of those who had befriended the orphan and stranger. The stage was full of passengers. Took dinner in Pleasant Valley. Arrived in Indian Diggings before tea, and thanked God that I could rest from my journey awhile.--Found it a mountain town--has a Methodist Church--Odd Fellow's and Masonic Hall, and Temperance Division. Having taken the Mason's Daughter's Degree, I was very glad to find some of the Fraternity here, for oft, in my lonely hours have I exclaimed, oh! that my kindred were near; and how good it seems to greet some of the brotherhood!

Aug. 29. My birthday. Commenced teaching in Indian Diggings.

Sept. 25th. I've been roaming o'er the mountains--diving into the bowels of the earth--going through tunnels--climbing up to the marble quarry--walking in the flume--gathering crystals and specimens of rocks--rolling over banks--clambering over rocks and through ravines--tearing my dresses, and carrying off the "bed rock" on my clothes;--now there is nothing left me to do but ride the donkeys. I fear that I shall "spoil for a fight."

Dec. 1st. Behold "Nonsensical Nellie" in Greenwood, where she expects to tarry during the winter term of this, her new school. Do not consider me a forlorn damsel, imprisoned in a literary penitentiary, acting the part of shooting mistress to numerous juvenile delinquents; for I have intelligent, obedient and interesting scholars, and I take great delight in trying to do them all the good I can, and try to do as I would wish to be done by.--How lonely I felt the first week that I was here. I thought that I should die of curiosity, aspire of impatience, or have a fit of the "dreadful suzzys" or an attack of homesickness, then summon all the little azure imps to my attendance and have a splendid cry. Believing, however, that eyes bound with pink tape, and a red nose were not adapted to my style of beauty, and that I would not look well to pine away to a cart-load, I concluded to divert myself with reading, writing to distant friends, sewing, embroidery, drawing (my breath), gathering flowers and mosses, &c.; until I am directed by an over-ruling Providence to a larger and more flourishing place. I am grateful and contented, for have I not the means of earning an honest livelihood?

Many thanks to you, kind DEMOCRAT, for giving my humble journal a place in your columns. May the new year bring you many new and prompt-paying subscribers.

NELLIE

Greenwood, Dec. 1859